Heater Core Removal & Installation - non-A/C '70 A-Body

I have searched for heater core removal and have read just about EVERYTHING on this site (and George's site), and I cannot find any short-cuts/tips on heater core removal for Non-AC cars. It looks like I have to remove 5 nuts on the engine side of the case and the two bolts around the blower motor, is this correct? I know what the Shop manual says about removing the inner fender and I have heard of the trick about making a hole in the inner fender, but there is nothing that I can find for the Non-AC stuff.
Just by giving a quick look, it seems a previous owner took the bolts out of the blower motor housing and did not put them back in, but the one at the 7 o'clock position is really really hard to see. Thanks for any advice.......

 

The Old Guy said:Here we go again!! The manual says to remove the fender, but if you look at the plastic cover over the assembly on the inside of the car, you will see in the bottom right hand corner, a round emboss. If you drill a 5/16 hole through the middle of the emboss, you will take out the stud that requires the fender removal. Then follow the directions in the manual and you can pull the core. When reassembling the unit, a little dum-dum in the hole will disguise what you did, and the three remaining bolts hold the assembly just fine.
:beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer :beer
ou: ou: ou:

Courtesy the "Old Guy"

 

Seen that on all the posts about heater cores. Just wanted to confirm that it was for the non A/C cars. Thanks. I'll take a look and see if I have the patience for this!

 

With the customers permission I use a Dremaal tool o just cut off the bottom corner. Saves a lot of time & the customer is happy because he saved money.

 

Been There; done it.
It is fairly easy to remove all the hardware inside the car to expose the heater core. Do not have to remove fender but easier if u remove the fender liner.
Re-installation is is a bitch. Need two people - one outside & one inside.

 

It appears that if I remove the five nuts (engine side) from the heater box studs, the defrost duct, and the cables from the controls, that I can move the box inward and remove. Is this correct? I can reach all 5 studs with the fender on, the bottom right is going to be a little fun but doable. Thanks......

 

When and if you hole-saw through the wheelhouse just cut through enough of the hole (maybe 300 degrees of the circle) so you can bend back the flap enough to get the bolt. When done just fold that sucker back in place and seal the cut edge with your favorite goo. You could even tack-weld it back in place.

 

Hi,

I have done several in 64/65 Skylark's and I have done was take the inner fender out, loosen the lower rearouter fender and remove the tire and you can roll ther inner out, also tape up ther fender edge and front door edge just to be safe and then all the bolts are accessible, also I know people who leave the top bolt off for the next time they need to do it so you don't have to remove as much.

I also when reinstall everything I put a smear of silicone on the heater core cover as I have had water leak in the interior thru that gasket

Regards,

 

u will probably have to gently bend the inlet and/or outlet tubes to pass them thru the firewall.

 

I have a 70 GS with no A.C. I can get to all 5 nuts that hold the inner to the outer box that I can see. I looked at my assembly manual and shop manual. I don' see anything else that is holding the inner box in. The outer box seems like I would have to cut a hole or remove the majority of the front clip.

 

Um - yeah; like, I think that's what we're saying. I've done both A/C and non A/C cars without fender removal; and the first I did was WAY WAY before the interweb existed - so I figured it out myself. You must go after a hidden bolt in either case.

 

Is this hidden bolt not shown in the assembly manual? I cannot locate it anywhere.

 

That's because its HIDDEN!! Sorry, couldn't help myself.
Wish I could help, last one I replaced was done with the front clip removed, did it just in case!
I just finished a heater core in my kids 2003 Ford Escape, easily spent ten hours on that deal, what a pain!

 

I cut a hole into the inner fender since I'm replacing it in the future due to a rusted battery tray.

I'm going to buy a plastic plug and boom covered

 

Got the heater core out. I removed the cables, radio, defrost duct, glove box liner and the five nuts on the engine side of the box. The inner box came in with the heater core. It took about 1 hour. This will only work with the non air car.

I am looking to reseal the heater box. I have the kit, anyone have tips on the disassembly of the duct doors? Thanks

 

Got the heater seal kit in and the heater installed. Took like 30 minutes to work it in. Had to have a friend on the engine side to direct. I did have the heater core checked by the radiator shop to ensure it was leak free.

 

I would call this project a success. Heat is very hot, box resealed, no leaks. Just to clarify, this was a non-air car, I did not drill any holes and removed the inner heater box with the core inside the car. No fender or inner-femder removal. Wasn't the most fun I ever had. Hardest part was the stupid control cables, I got them mixed up.

 

I would never drill a hole in my car.

 

Brett,

I installed a heater core recently in Utica Geoff’s 71 non-air GS that you sold him. Someone before me already drilled the stud. With the stud not there, the job is straightforward.