Mike, You can find the proper bolts on other sellers auctions. Those one race take out parts are spread out on multiple sellers accounts .
You won’t have any issues doing an internal balance with those rods. I’m sure you won’t need any Mallory metal.
You WILL need Mallory metal if you use a crank that was balanced from the factory with the nut and bolt rods. And you might even need to add weight if you use a cap screw rod crank with a stroker because of the extra stroke that puts the weight even further out. BUT you won't need nearly as much added weight(if any) with a cap screw rod crank as you would with a nut and bolt rod crank because of the extra weight the cap screw rods weigh, they took less weight off of the crank to balance it from the factory.
Well I did more checking on chainset alignment today. Threw a stock cam in blk, tried two different chainsets, alignment was still out .055 on both sets. Both were 3 & 9 keyway roller sets. Puzzling I don't know for certain if that much can be adjusted with thrust bearing, but I wouldn't think so. Shimming crank gear out .055 would get alignment straight, but will play heck on pulley alignment, and fuel pump arm will be that much closer to double chain. New Crank is at grinder. Pistons, balancer, flexplate, etc, are ordered, block & rods are done. Crank balancing needed yet after pistons come in and everything gets weighed. Rods came out at 527 grams after big end narrowing. You can bet your sweet azz I'll be removing stock off cam flange shoulder or backside of cam gear on this new block/ build.. Might have to add .055 shim on outboard side of cam gear to keep dist gear and cam gear aligned/ meshed well, making up the .055 offset differance. Gear marking compound should tell all....
NO, you can't adjust the thrust that much! Add another zero in front of that number and maybe, but that would still be pushing it trying to use the thrust for that. You might want to mock the engine up with the timing cover with water pump mounted to it, balancer, and pulleys with belts installed to check V-belt alignment before you start shimming gears and such? You may need to set the heads on with a couple bolts as well to be able to bolt on all the pulley brackets. .055" shouldn't be to hard to see if they aren't aligned properly. Being out of the car you should be able to use a straight edge on the timing cover on a somewhat flat area even if the only spot is to inboard a bit, you can space it out with a 1 2 3 block if you have one of those or anything else that is parallel that you can use to space out the straight edge, measure with a tape measure to the straight edge to the edge of V-belt to check for variation from one pulley to another. Whatcha building Mart? Doing an LS swap? You should of got a sbb 300 and stuffed in a sbb 350 stroked crank to swap in! TA Rover heads heavily ported, I think I can probably make a set of adapters or hollow out a '64 2bbl aluminum intake to weld it on to run an carb LS intake to top that bad boy off! With the right compression ratio matched to the right cam, we could of got 600 pump gas HP out of it for you!
What? Timing cover has nothing to do with block face to backside of gears. Guess I'll have to call you to explain it.
Using the block face is just for a reference point for the V-belts to check if in they're inline. Was thinking about this and the one side of the block is machined flat all the way up to the deck, so use that as your reference point to check pulley alignment with something to raise it up higher to rest your straight edge on, a 12" carpenter's square would work, just use the ruler from one of those if you have one.
Don't know what you guys are doing here, are you saying that the timing gears don't line up on center with each other? That is basic factory engine geometry. Check it with the original crank and cam. It should be right. If the new parts are off after you've confirmed that, find where the problem is and why. Jim
Yes, he is saying that the aftermarket timing set gears don't lineup. The cam gear is .055" out further than the crank gear. He already wrote that he has confirmed with a factory cam that the aftermarket gears are the problem.
Jim, This is a 71 block with the matching 71 crank I'm checking. Last check will be a nylon factory cam gear and factory crank gear, using stock factory cam. With flat tappet factory cams, I'm curious if the alignment is actually spot on...... The flat tappet cams are supposed to be directed toward the block face, by lifter rotation. My 9 key chainset that was in this setup was tight (very minimal slack as in none), as mains were align honed and a .005 over gearset was used. And after all the dist gear plus blk face wear, the front dual groove cam bearing is still perfect....
Well, I checked alignment again today and here is the stock cam with stock gears. Way off on alignment. Seems factory designed crank to pull cam toward block. What a crappy design. See pic.
