You're gunna laugh, this block & crank has 97k on it, just light polish on crank and STD. bearings! Been shifting at 6,2k(cause d/p intake). Mains/ rods @.002 TA dual groove cam bearings. Castrol GTX, 2qts -5/30 & 3 qts 20/50. Hey, it was on sale for $2 a qt.! Got abt. 2,5k on this dist gear before it got eaten. Got to find a 'set it and forget it' procedure.
Larry, did Steve say what brand of cover he used to replace the TA cover? Mart, Oh boy, no I'm REALLY questioning the fit of my MSD and the binding I'm getting between the MSD and oil pump. I might just buy both brands of cover Summit sells and see which one fits better, then return the other.
Found the cause, don't understand why the rear thrust from cam is happening though. Oil pressure,distributor gear & cam gear rearward thrust? This is the best race tru-billit gearset Cloyes makes. Cam looks great except a slight galling spot on shoulder that wasn't there when assembled, cam bearings are not shot by any means. Block is recessed .058, was a perfectly flat block face. Bumper was set at .005, Maybe bronze thrust washer is needed or Torrington bearing setup? Maybe chipped cam gear fragment got stuck for a second causing the galling issue started? Would direct oil drip/ spray prevent this? I just don't know.......
when back and looked at both gears. the dizzie gear had wear on one side of the teeth, the cam teeth were both sides, starting at outer teeth then tapered in. up and down rpm should make it wear both sides. thankfully I have numerous t/c's to play with. and you thought this was easy. lol I said it was 9 yrs for the 1.88 crank being. not. used the 'way-back machine' and it only been 5 yrs on the same bearings.
Yeah John, I'm already rethinking this, Autotech pistons, Carrillo rods, internal balance, maybe just maybe a little stroke job to boot!
I didn't have any extra copper line , so I used the plastic crap for illustrative purposes, with the copper you can obviously form it to hug the contours if the cover and aim it just where you want it , obviously you want to try to lube the contact point of the two gears but long as you hit your succeeding Imo, yes it's a technically an oil oil hemmorage but if you use a tubing cutters to make the cut it closes the already small ID of the copper tube to about 3/4 of its original dia , I've never ran this on a 350, as I've simply never built one, but it's kept my BB gears from wearing
Mart, If you haven't already put the timing chain cam gear back on and setup an indicator on the face of the gear, and spin it.. if it's ok, move it to the front of the distributor gear and check it there, as far out as you can. JW
Ethan, thanks for posting oil line pics. Jim, believe me I'm going to check runout and squareness. Inside, near shaft dia's. & out on extreme o.d. of gears. The right angle squareness needs to be looked at also. If the cam shoulder is sticking out proud of where it should be, the crank gear and timing chain will have a tendency to try and walk the cam towards the block. I want it to gently float, without any added pull or thrust either towards block or cam bumper. Jim, thinking if I measure from block face to back side tooth area of both installed timing chain gears, do you think that would give me an accurate measurement for squareness?
could drill a small hole just behind cam bearing or grind a small grove in bearing back to feed oil to cam/block.
That's a good idea Dan. Doesn't seem it was getting enough oil to prevent the galling. Only takes a small scuff, and that starts it.
Mart, I would want to quantify forward/aft run out.. with a gear worn like that, I think we are looking at more than just a metallurgical issue, or oiling. When setting cam end play, keep in mind that you can get the alum timing cover to swell up by .005 or so just with a heat gun.. I never set a roller cam up tighter than .007, .010 to .015 is my preferred spec. Too tight is worst than a little loose. Under power, the cam driving the oil pump will push the cam toward the rear, end play only comes into play when the wheels drive the engine. JW
Jim, I'm seeing that now. It was suggested to me to set the play at .003- .007. I set it at .005 Figured bumper would wear in another .001 or so. Any suggestions on using this block or not?
dropped my block off at the machine shop for cleaning. we notice the same wear at the cam hole. not as bad as yours. they has a bbc there and it was worn down about .020. they make a bearing kit for the bbc for this problem. you have to machine casting down about .145 to use the bearing. don't think we can do that. but then again we done weirder things. lol
