Well its been a while so I thought I would add some updates and new pictures. I am adding pictures to some of the previous post so look back. In my rebuild I am updating the clutch and pressure plate for a little added horsepower. I am using Centerforce II. Here are a few pictures along with the boxes that show the part numbers.
Here is a couple of pictures to show the difference between the automatic and four speed drive shaft. The rusty one is the four speed shaft. In the end view you can see the rubber inbetween the tubes of the automatic drive shaft. The pictures are of the rear end yoke. The transmission yoke end appears to be the same.
I did some measuring and found some ARP bolts that work for the flywheel to crankshaft and presure plate to flywheel. I have attached an image with the part numbers I used. This should work on a 340 or 350 as well.
This is the plate the goes around the steering column at the firewall. the addtional hole is for the boot and the rod from the pedal to the z-bar.
Here are a couple pictures of the one piece Z-bar and the ballstuds and other hardware. The block side (larger one) ballstud is the same as the 455. I purchased mine from Mike Garrison at High Torque Racing. He is a member and in the vendor section of the message board. Part number MGGS114 4 speed pivot ball and runs $26.00 plus shipping. The ball end is .998" in diameter and is made better than the orginal.
Here are several views that compare the automatic steering column and the four speed steering column. You can also see the two styles of plates that mount at the base of the column at the firewall.
Here is a picture of the same factory Hurst shifter thats in post 10 and 13 after a complete restoration by Dennis Maroudas DME 606-237-6648. Dennis does great work. He replated the chrome on the handle without losing the details and he replated all the linkage, etc.
Mark, I got the card for a guy that runs a trans shop when I was at the autofair this weekend. He said he had a T10 backup light switch back at his shop. Give me a call one evening and I will give you the number.
I just stumbled onto this thread. I parted a 65 300 2 bbl Skylark 2 door sedan 4 speed in 2010. The car had sat in a wrecking yard for 30-35 years. I wish I had taken pictures of all the parts. Brian Stone got all the 4 speed stuff. I delivered it to him in August, '10. Pics attached. Originally Verde Green, black interior. Mark
Hi Mark, To bad that car was so far gone. Glad you saved the parts. Im sure Brian will put them to good use. Hows your GS coming? I have followed your threads for some time on here and at 65GS.com. Its going to be a very nice car.
Mark, yes, that car was not saveable. What lay under the surface of what you see in the pictures was far worse. Thanks for the kind words on the GS. I hope to have it running this summer! Mark
Re: 1964 Four Speed Information Thread I had an original 300 / 355 Wildcat 4-speed Special Delux Convertible in 1969, so they were made. I truly wish that I had that car today. From some research I did I belive there were only 400 4-speed Buick Specials made in 1964. Not many of these still around I'm sure. I keep thinking about a conversion for my existing 64 Special. However, since my 64 vert is such a nice original survivor car and their only original once I put that thought on the back burner.
I can vouch for these pressure plate bolts for a 350 Buick, they are correct as far as I can see, they thread into the flywheel's blind holes and do not bottom out before the pressure plate it fully clamped down. The flywheel bolts might be OK as-is, but when I looked at how much was sticking out of the front of the 350 Buick crank flange, I could see about 3 threads or so sticking out, which on a 7/16-20 bolt is about 0.15 inches. I don't want those tips hitting the engine so I am going to grind the bolts down 3 threads so there is no extra bolt shaft sticking out beyond the crank flange thickness. I found a matching lug nut in my garage, so I will thread the lug nut over the bolt, and expose the 3 threads, then put the bolt in my vice and grind down the bolt end until flush with the lug nut. Then the process of threading the lug nut off will straighten the end of the bolt thread out, and then I'll chamfer the new shortened bolt end for easy starting.
Instead I used a pneumatic cut off wheel to cut the bolt to length, then a quick chamfer with the grinder, again using the lug nut in the vice. The cut off wheel was much faster then grinding all that stock away. Now my ARP flywheel bolts don't stick out beyond the front of the crank flange. Now I can bolt a lot of stuff together!
Hi All, I am new to the site and just bought a 64 Skylark convertible with a factory four speed (per 2L trim group code), with the 300 ci, 4 bbl. The 4 bbl intake is still on the car and the stock Rochester (with water choke) came with it, though the carb had been removed and replaced with a Holley. So far, the numbers are checking out and I found the engine block serial the other day, that matches the VIN The seller never could never find it, but I did after some under the hood gymnastics. I understand that only 100 of these cars were made - can anyone confirm this, with a reference link? Thanks.
Congratulations and welcome autom8it, Give us some details and let us see some pictures. Did your car have the consolette? I have the build quantities from Sloan on these cars so I will have to dig them out and look it up to tell you how many 1964 Skylark convertible 4 speeds were built. They do not break it down to 4bbl. Vs. two barrel carb. Clanceman427, Sorry I missed your post. I should have clarified sooner but on the ARP flywheel bolts I took .125" off of mine to make sure they didn't contact the block after going through the crank hub. ---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ---------- Autom8it, There were 752 convertibles Skylarks built with 4 speeds in 1964. What color ext. and interior?
--------- Thanks for the reply. I found this Hemmings article that said only 100 4 bbls were built... I called the writer at Hemmings and he said he got the number from a Buick GS site... Mmm. I am trying to track down the original reference. http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2008/12/01/hmn_feature22.html The car is white on white with a white top and it has the consolette. It is very much original, so I have started detailing some parts. I will have to shrink some pics and get them posted. My T-10 has 7-D on it instead of D-7, any idea why this would be? It also has the backup light option so I'll look for the rev trans switch and get a photo. I found what appears to be a small build sheet in the documentation that came with the car. It would be great to get it decoded. The first two lines refer to the body style, 367, and interior colour as 164 which is white based on my research. It then list COMB as A02 D33. The final line is DECK A49 and one more character that I can't read. Any ideas on these codes? I still need to find out what diff is in the car. Based on the chassis manual, there should be an X near the cover bolt at about 3 o'clock, but it doesn't have this. Based on a little squawk the other day, I am quite certain it is a one wheeler peeler - I.e. no posi. The guy I bought it off said the engine was rebuilt 5000 miles ago and he had the builder maintain the 11:1 comp ratio. Engine runs nice and shifts well. It pops out of second gear when decelerating unless I hold it firmly in gear - is this typical for this trans or a possible trans difficiency. Sorry for all the questions... Any help is appreciated.
Autom8it, welcome! Man, what a great find you found! Sounds awesome, you might want to also post out on Wet Behind the Ears to introduce yourself and post a few pics, there are many 1st gen. A body fans here and an original, drop-top 4 speed 64 'Lark will have everybody drooling! 64G lark, no problem, sounds like you did the same thing I did with those flywheel bolts. Hey, great minds think alike! I believe between 64G lark's knowledge, and Autom8it's original time piece of a car, this thread is about to get bolstered with even more great info on the original a body sbb stick shifts!
Autom8it, The production numbers I have came directly from the orginal Buick documents that the Sloan Musuem has. Like you I was courious about the information on 1964 cars and was able to hook up with a lady there who was nice enough to make me copies of the orginal documents. I will try to get the whole packet out this weekend and look through it and see if I can answer some of your other questions. I think I may have the list of option codes that will decode your build sheet. The poping out of second gear is a common problem usually on deceleration. Brian on this board can tell you exactly what causes this. If I recall correctly its related to worn syncros and or slider. If you cant find the stampings on your rear end you can get close by jacking the car up. Block it securly! Rotate the drive shaft in netrual and count the turns in relation to the rotation of the tire. I will bet its a 3.23. Recently found out the back up switch bracket that mounts on the transmission is reproduced thanks to the same bracket being used on other T-10 equipped GM cars. Specifically the early Corvettes. Ecklers Corvette has them as part number 51001 listed as early 63 Corvette with T-10.
Thanks again for the reply. First off, very nice car you have - love the white and your wheel choice Very interesting that you were able to get a copy of the production numbers. Sure thing if you are able to get any indicators on the option codes, I would love to see it. I did not know that the T10 trans was also used in early vettes; great cross reference. I have posted pics of the car, build sheet and the trim plate details on the Wet behind your ears thread, as suggested by another member.
