It seem like it was running too rich after the intake change. I talked to Fred Catlin Last night and he said yes try leaner jets. I think the alignment of the intake to heads and the use of a better intake draws more fuel into the engine. Here is a video of it running with 96 instead of 98 jets. More responsive. http://youtu.be/Fi4rE_UxAe4
I ran Last Wednesday night and it didn't run as fast as I thought. 2nd past with new plugs 11.12. 3rd past lost oil pressure. 20 or over with no RPM pressure change. Today I changed the AC 24 filter and checked the pressure spring. I installed the Matco oil pressure gauge to the front oil sending unit spot to see the difference from the front to the rear where I have the main oil pressure gauge. I started it up and 40+ pressure on both gauges. Then I started it up again and raise the RPM's to 3000 or more and 80 on both gauges. I will change the oil next and try to put a camera up the hole and try to see if there is any issues in the pan to pick up. I cut open the oil filter and didn't see any blockage there. I think I might have to add more spacers to get more power since the cylinders are tapered and having low compression. I had more spacers with the SP1 and it was faster but the ports where missaligned. Any thoughts's? The oil pressure drop is still weird. Could the sleeve in the oil pump cover stick to cause loss of pressure?
When did you loose oil pressure? What is you oil level? Do you have a booster plate between the oil pump gears and the oil filter adapter? http://http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Engine+Oil+Pump+Gear+Thrust+Plate+Kit/03825/C0145.oap?year=1970&make=Buick&model=Estate%2BWagon&vi=1017504 What brand oil filter are you running?
I just hit 3rd gear on the 3rd round of practice and I think I seen my oil light flash but I allways look at oil pressure at sometime going down the track, and it was around 20 lbs. I tried to shut it off but didn't have it in neutral so the trans was still turning the engine and finally I got it in neutral before the finish line. I turned the corner and started it back up and still 20 lbs. Told the ticket girl I needed a tow. I have the original aluminum booster plate from KB with .001 clearance and new gears. I think I showed that in the original posts. The rods are stock polished but have been raced maybe 10 years. After looking at this filter, all that metal can't just be from cutting it open with a hacksaw. I think the wise thing would be to pull it and check the bottom end out for a cracked rod or a spun bearing. If you look at the video of the oil gauge when I rev it it buries the pressure gauge. So oil pressure is not an issue. Here is a pic of the filter. I run 6 qts and this is the first time I added ZDDP Zinc additive.
First cutting it open with a hack saw contaminted your results of opening the oil filter. What I did was put the filter in my bench vice (K & N W/nut on bottom) And lightly cut all the way around the filter being careful not to go all the way through with my die grinder then popping the top off to get the filter out. Summit and most other speed shops sell a hand tool for this, but it cost. If you do not want to send the money for this cutter (like me), you could punch a hole with a chisel then use snips to cut around to get the top off.
I will get it in here, clean my drain pan thoroughly and drian the oil and look at it. I see copper in that mess of debris. I fully grooved the mains so I might have went to far. Thats what I'm thinking. Have you ever seen a main bearing split from that? The thrust was on the tight side also.
I'm looking for a set of long carbide burr bits to finish the oil mods on this block. Just wondering if anyoneone here has a set they would sell me. Also if you have a 37/64 drill bit and a 3/8 pipe tap I need that too.
I don't see where grooving the saddles will help because oil will be around the bearing and not in it. I like Jim W mods of opening up the oil feeds a little. I think the fully groove mains would work if the bearings where made that way and then coated but have a smaller groove in the bottom half then the top. I didn't have any problems before even without oil mods except the timing cover and I was shifting at 6200 and going through the traps at 6500 RPMs. The crank is being turned .030 on the mains so no more room for failure now.
The grooving the saddles also includes drilling additional oil holes in the bearing, thus three feed points instead of just one
Than that would help. I was thinking if you drilled a hole in the bottom bearing you would get more that way. Damm I amaze myself sometimes!:Smarty:
Ok I got the front plugs done and now drilling out the #2,3 and 4 mains. I don't have a round burr bit so I will have to try to use what I got.
OK I got the mains drilled, the left front oil feed to head plugged and now I'm trying to hone these cylinders in some new worn out life. It looks like there is a little ridge there and that is keeping the hone from contacting the top of the ring travel. I had to use the medium hone to get some good coverage to straighten the bore a little. I was going to use the fine hone next but if I don't cut the ridge down it won't hit the top of the ring travel. So I was going to use the flex hone next and try to get it all with the same hatch pattern. I want to bore it but the owner just wants to get it together for 2 more races. Any of you guys nursed a 455 to run again with wore out cylinder walls? I have freshened this engine up before but the walls never looked this bad.ou:o No: NMCA is a callin!
I went ahead and ran the Flex Hone and it makes the cylinders look great but it probably masks the actual uneveness in the walls.
I just checked the clearance from the pick up screen to the pan and I have an inch. I have a 6 QT pan but isn't that still too high?
I've read anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8" I'm thinking closer to 1/4". Anyone feel like adding their 2 cents here?
1/2 MAX, better around 1/4, especially if turning lots of rpm and sucking the pan dry. 1 inch is WAYYY too much.
The back of this pan in the deep part angles up a little I think I beat the front part down to much cause it was dented in a bit. I am touching on the slope but have at least a 1/4 in the deep some I will tweak it a little.
