TRACTION for A-BODY

Discussion in 'The "Pure" Stockers' started by Gary Bohannon, Dec 24, 2004.

  1. Gary Bohannon

    Gary Bohannon Well-Known Member

    UPDATE.....GOT TRACTION !!!!

    Since starting this thread in 2005, I made a change that did more for my traction than anything else I have tried (air bags, no-nops, 70-30 front shocks).
    I have new MOOG soft springs on front and rear!!
    Yes, I removed the no-hops, air bag, 70-30 shocks and the big fat stock GS springs. Now I get STREET BITE like I never thought possible!

    Try these MOOG springs. (CORRECTION previous numbers removed) 5230 Front and 6321 rear

    I prefer Moogs over Morosos which start slowly falling ...wheel alighnment changes monthly till the bumper drags the ground. NO...
    Moogs last forever. Morosos last a year or two, maybe.

    I now have:
    Cheap gas shocks ft and rr.
    7/8 stock rear GM swaybar
    UMI adjustable upper arms
    Edelbrock lower arms (prefer Curries)
    Pinion angle set 2 degrees down (tweaked upper right arm 1/4 turn tighter for a straight shot off the line and tiny preload to stop twist and plant the right tire.

    If I sell my Switch Pitch, & get a JW 9.5" 3700 converter, I W I L L have traction problems again!

    Q. WHAT WILL GARY DO THEN?
    A. GET AN HR BAR. No further experimenting needed.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2010
  2. Steve A

    Steve A 454 450

    How do the Moog springs ride height compare to stock ?
     
  3. Gary Bohannon

    Gary Bohannon Well-Known Member

    CORRECTION on my post above. I changed that postl

    THE MOOG NUMBERS ARE 5230 FRONT AND 6321 REAR.

    Got my notes mixed up. Sorry for the error. Can't belive I did that!!

    Ride is slightly higher on my car but it is 3700 lbs.
    Front wheel well is 26" from the ground.
     
  4. Dave H

    Dave H Well-Known Member

    Gary,

    Did you have any wheel hop before, and did that fix it? My car has had violent wheel hop since I bought it new in 1968. Not only at hard launch but at 1-2 and a little at 3-4 shift...
     
  5. mikehurd

    mikehurd Well-Known Member

    Gary

    You have gotten a lot of very good info from everyone but do not neglect pinion angle, this is extremely important. My personal best short time is 1.85. This with -4deg,s and rubber bushings. Also, this a big block 4-spd chevelle with F-70-14 goodyears. good luck.
     
  6. Gary Bohannon

    Gary Bohannon Well-Known Member

    Pinion Angle;
    With QA1 upper adjustables, I set my pinion angle at -2 and it was -7 from the factory. Everyone should check this. Some guys gain up to .2 ET and 2MPH in the 1/4 mile.

    Wheel-hop:
    I suspect the wheel hop can be caused by the following.

    1. The upper arm support crossmember flexing. INSTALL BRACES!!!http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=73629&highlight=braces
    2. Jacked up rear stance.
    3. Air Shocks. I tried them and bounced severly off the line.
    4. Weak Shock or shocks. Check for fluid leaks or just worn out.
    5. Too much air in air bags; in combination with above problems.

    Never had that problem with any A-body I've owned (except with air shocks). I did catch control arm grommets loosening up before they got to be a serious problem. Watch this very close on stock control arms.

    Some of you add to this list....
     
  7. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member

    I suppose some of you guys racing in a certain class have to follow a rule book but I've found over the years that a properly installed "Anti Roll Kit" made the biggest difference.

    These kits allow the car to launch straight and helps aid in planting BOTH tires.

    Again, some of you maybe can't use these per your rules but they un-bolt in about two minutes if the race you're at doesn't allow the use of them. It would still be mounted in the car but by removing two bolts it would be un-hooked for the time being.

    Here are some pictures of how we installed mine:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These pictures show the kit installed on the frame but installation to the Rear End hadn't taken place yet. There are simply two arms that connect to the rear end via Grade 8 Bolts. To utilize it, just install the 2 bolts. To disconnect it if needed, simply remove the 2 bolts.

    I believe these kits will make a bigger difference than most of the other mods we do in search of traction. The kit also strengthens the rear portion of your frame.

    I believe pinion angle is important as well!

    My .02
     
  8. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member

    For comparison purposes, here's a picture of my frame from my GSX (No anti roll Kit)

    This may help some of you that aren't familiar with these kits to see what's involved in the 1st 3 pictures I posted.

    [​IMG]
     
    67NorCalGS likes this.
  9. goatless

    goatless Well-Known Member

    Todd, I'm gonna have to say that anti-roll bar that you pictured isn't legal in any stock appearing race series.


    I just set a new personal best 60 foot- 1.78 (and ET- 12.76) a few days ago.
    '69 Lemans, just under 4000lb. race weight, FAST legal.
    Rear suspension: Edelbrock No-hop bars, poly bushings, factory boxed lower arms and sway bar, factory replacement springs, cheapo gas shocks. 23 psi in the G70-14s.

    Front suspension: poly bushings, summit drag shocks, stock replacement springs, sway bar removed.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member

     
  11. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member



    What brand kit is that? I've never seen one like that.
     
  12. ToddsGS

    ToddsGS Founders Club Member


    TRZ
     
  13. 67NorCalGS

    67NorCalGS Well-Known Member

    Cool thanks!
     
    ToddsGS likes this.

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