If I remember correctly I think you need a little bit stiffer spring for the boosted application. The boosted app. will probably try to keep the valve open. This is where the roller cam comes in to play. That is why I think you need a little more spring pressure. You also probably don't need as much overlap, more than likely none. I notice that turbo Buicks idle like a stocker but run like a freight train. A small draw back if you like that lumpy lump sound. Now my brothers Mustang that is a different story. He has a Procharger system on his and the cam in it is a little more lumpy. His buddy has a Turbo boosted Mustang and no lumpy cam in it. The real strange thing is when you hear the turbo Mustang do the burnout and pull up to the line it sounds just like a turbo Buick. Both are stick cars and the turbo one will pull the front wheels. The Turbo Mustang has run in the high 9's at 145. I think he is in the high 7's on the horsepower. My brother with the Procharger has run in the mid 10's at about 133 he has a little over 600 hp. Both HP numbers at the wheels. This is where the roller cam is going to shine. You can run strong spring pressures if you need to and you won't burn up the cam. Now for the rest of us we could probably run square lobes on our naturally asperated motors. I bet those beehive springs would work real good with the roller cam. The one thing that I have noticed also with both of those Mustangs is that they both run the intercoolers. The only drawback that I see is that both systems seem to be a little warmer under the hood. One thing is for certain, both cars are crazy fast.
OK has anyone else ordered one yet. Just ordered mine today i am going with a 212 grind. My rebuilder asked me about a cam bumper talked to TA and they will get back to me hope they have this engine builder says its super important he told me if the cam walks i could have catastophic engine failure. any imput?
That is a very good question. Usually with a hydraulic cam the lifters hold it to the back of the engine. I think the cam is offset some so the lifters hold it back. But since this is a roller cam that might change everything. I think that there was a article somewhere for the 455's where there was a button put on the timing chain cover to help hold the cam back.
Not to my knowledge. Each pair of lifters will be connected so they don't rotate (the roller stays aligned with the cam lobe)
Definitely down on cars, and the crowd (which was kind of nice). Saw a lot of cars go up on the block and no sale. (Nick Servo's 2 cars). The economy is taking it's toll.
I'm not getting a roller cam, but I got a question that might help those getting these cams. Is the cam being ground in house at TA or is it being sent out? Reason I'm asking is becuase the idea seems to be to pick a good performing FT cam pofile made for buicks as the basis for the roller grind, which is the wrong way to go around this. The profile can be far more agressive on a roller cam, allowing far greater lift figures for the duration being run, compared to a Hyd. FT cam. The best thing to do would find out what springs you can run, what piston-to-valve clearance you got, and let the cam grinder know your whole combination, and its intended application. These guys deal with cams all day long, so the knowledge that they bring to the table will amost certainly be better than most of us will ever know. Might as well use it. As for the arguement agaist rollers - in my opinion theres only one and a half reasons against - 1) cost. 1/2) the rollers weigh a little more. they are better in just about every other aspect for both street and racing. I'm glad TA is making these cams for the 350 crowd, you're gunna want them available when heads start being made.
This is a blank. TA will grind what you want or you can have someone else grind what you want. When I talked to Mike, he told me that theses cams would not be crazy lifts requiring very high spring pressures. You can also run a regular distributor gear as well as a mechanical fuel pump. These will be relatively mild grinds for a roller cam. http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=148057 Can't wait for the 455 blanks to be out
From what they told me when i ordered mine is that they are being sent out to be ground. They did tell me i could go with a higher lift with the same duration being its a roller cam.
With a max lobe lift of .360, that can give you .594 with 1.65 rockers. A lot of the chevy guys are having great sucess with the thumpr series cams from comp, and the lobe lift and LC would fit this core as well. Its also a newer cam, so its going to be very up to date. The lift and crazy springs are only what type of lift profile you pick. A really agressive drag cam will require far more spring pressure than a cam built around an endurance engine. Being able to increase the lift while keeping the same duration will generally increase power (HP and Torque) everywhere, which is where the roller cam is going to get you the most bang for your buck compared to a FT cam. heres a really good posting on the only other truly proffessional board that I have found. Just more about engines http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopi...s=0&postorder=asc&highlight=cam+lift+increase definitly read the posts by UDHarold and CamKing, both very experienced cam designers.
I had a nice conversation with Mike over at TA and found out my cam is back from the grinder. I am going to have the first cam ground and i guess the first ordered so i guess i am the guinea pig. Mike has come up with a few cam button solutions i am happy with. I should have the cam next week. I am not sure when the machine shop will start the build.
Hey guys, we're building a 350 engine with a hydraulic roller cam and we ran into a problem where the second counterweight from the back of the crank will hit the cam lobe (#7 intake lobe) because of the 4-7 firing order swap incorporated into the hydraulic roller cams. This means that the crank will need to be clearanced to not hit the cam. This unfortunately means that you cant get a hyd. roller cam and install it into an assembled engine, it will be required to check clearance between the crank and cam and clearancing of the crank if there is any interference. We recommend doing this before balancing the crankshaft so that you don't have to balance it twice. This is not a big deal it looks worse than it is, we'll update as to how much material to remove to clear the cam. It also looks like some cranks may clear the lobe being how close it is. Here are pictures showing where the crank hits the cam lobe. The black lines on the crank indicate (from one line to the other) where the cam touches and thus where the crank needs to be clearanced.
Mike with this latest problem i am thinking of just using a regular cam can i use the roller lifters with a flat tappet cam?
Check this Post for Updates We've found that advancing the cam clears the crank but only by about .004 for our application. We're also talking about doing a run of cams without the 4-7 swap to eliminate the problem for people who cant/don't want to have to take their engine apart or aren't building a new one.
