I Have Two Sets Of Exhaust Manifolds,one Set Has A Built In Heat Riser,the Other Dosent. Will It Matter Which Ones I Use On My Neely Rebuilt 66 425??? Thanks Rg
That depends... I may be wrong but if you install the right hand on the left it may be upside down or facing the wrong direction. The heat riser goes on the right.
Exhaust UPSIDE DOWN,NOW THAT WOULD BE DIFFERENT.NO,I HAVE TWO COMPLEATLY DIFFERENT SETS(TWO RIGHTS,AN TWO LEFTS) BUT EACH SET IS DIFFERENT,ONE SET HAS A BUILT IN HEAT RISER ON ONE OF THE MANIFOLDS THE OTHER SET DOSENT. SHOULD I USE 1.THE SET THAT HAS THE HEAT RISER IN IT OR,2.THE SET THAT DOSENT.THIS IS FOR MY RIVERIA. o No:
If I had a choose I'd use the one without the heat riser, if you're not going to drive when it is cold out, all the heat riser does is help the engine warm up faster, and they tend to rust closed and cut off your exhaust! Not that I know anything about this stuff, since I'm just a girl, LOL!
Originally all '63-'66 Riviera's, weather 401 or 425 used a separate heat riser valve attached to the right side manifold with a gasket & 2 longer studs.
My spring is gone on my and it clatters but is very much free. Even though I drive in the cold I'm planning on deleteing it when I get the TA exhauste for the car. I'm really thinking of converting to an electric choke and eliminating the still present and working heat tubing and choke assembly.
only a girl only a girl that drives fast cars. i have the upmost respect for all you girls,i mean after all, you have a tough road to drive and when all your drivings done for the day you still have to baby us men.think i will take your advise and leave off heat riser. i just couldnt figure out why i had two and one was with and one was without ou:
exh. manifolds You might try this; Go ahead and use the heat riser but cut the short side of the butterfly off leaving the long side. this makes the thing sure to open and doesnt alter the exhaust pipe connection on that side. But dont block the heat riser passages to the intake manifold. You need some heat to make the fuel vaporize. The nail head intakes are " divorced" from the engine block and run much cooler than the later engines any way. On the street nailers run smoother and stronger with heat to the intake.
In case you might be interested, I make heatriser deletes specifically for this situation. And they even come with a gasket. :Brow:
Can you show pictures of how to section the vavle, I'm getting a used one that I'm going to referb when I put on my TA 2.5" kit and I want to keep the vavle but decrease its restriction since the car is largely summer driven though it will see time this winter as a backup to my daily driver when it needs its 120k mile work.
heat riser Yup, When you take the heat riser valve off and look at it you discover that the flapper valve its self has a long side and a short side. The long side is the trailing edge. The short side is the leading edge. i cut the most of the short side off. Leaving enough so that it still is fastened to the shaft that goes thru it. If you cut too much off then the trailing edge of the flapper has to be welded to the shaft to keep it in. i usually leave about 1/4 "of the leading edge to be sure that it stays on the shaft. This also gives the shaft more power to open and less to close.