I have a 65 skylark auto floor shift. My problem is the car starts and runs fine but when I put it in park and shut it off it does not shut off but I can switch some wires around at the neutral safety switch and it will turn off but will only start in neutral I have replaced the ignition switch and taken the safety switch apart and it looks good any help would be helpful thanks chuck in mobile
the nuetral saftey switch should only keep the starter from cranking when not in park or neutral. it should have nothing to do with the car shtting off. what things are not stock under the hood. HEI?electric fan?power mods for audio?alt conversion?
the only thing different under the hood is an electronic ignition installed by the previous owner when he put the 455 in thanks ckuck
is there still a wire hooked to the solenoid from the old points set-up? it would be one the little post that is away from the block. is it a GM HEI distribitor in there now? if so, where is it getting power to the fat pink wire from?
ok I'll start looking tomorrow may take awhile i'm a 64 year old rookie at this stuff I mainly like interior and body work thanks chuck
ok I think I've got it. It's a delco remmy dist theres a heavy pink wire from it to a small switch box?? from there it goes to the battery that box has a ground to the body. there is also a pink wire leaving this switch going to the main harness and I believe conecting to the outside terminal of the solinoid I hope this helps because I'm lost thanks chuck
When you say electronic ignition do you mean it's a stock Delco ignition off another vehicle or just a Delco distributor. If a Mallory/MSD or some sort of ignition box is installed, you are probably missing the capacitor that needs to be installed for the coil. I'm not sure if this holds for a Delco ignition that was transplanted or not.
can anyone help I'm having a problem attaching pictures to these posts any help would be appreciated. I'm not good with computers so please make it as simple as possible thank you chuck
one wire comes from the battery. one goes to the distributor.one wire goes into a wirring harness an possibly to the solinoid. there is also a ground. the car has a voltage regulator would this be in the loop?? thanks chuck
lets cover some wiring basics first. the wire that feeds the relay from the battery really should be as large as the wire that GM used to run into the HEI. also that wire from the battery should be fused no more than about 7 inches from the battery. if that wire doesnt have fuse and it shorts out, the wire could easily catch (and start a) fire. the terminals going to the relay should also be taped well on the outside to keep them safe from shorting to each other or anything else them also(BTW.. if the wire from the bat shorted to the one from the harness, it would run after the key was off). the relay is not weatherproof and will become a victim of the weather. try mounting it with the terminals pointing down and wrap it with some good (scotch 33) electrical tape to keep water out of it. with that said .... i have been studying the 1965 skylark wiring diagrams and see no way the nuetral safety switch should have any effect on this situation. you said it will only start in nuetral (after you messed with the nuetral switch?) wires. the switch when hooked up should let it either start in park AND nuetral, or when unplugged, not start at all. it shouldnt lose park OR nuetral, just both or none at all.which leads me to wonder about wire mods or melts that you are not finding. as for the car continueing to run, it only takes a few volts to keep the relay working. i think the voltage from the charging system is not "dying" to let the relay turn off and in turn, the relay stays on keeping the motor running keeping the charging system functioning. without the car in front of me, i am limited on suggestions. the simple way to stay on the road would be the following.... instead of having the relay be grounded under the hood, run a wire from that terminal to inside the car to a new switch. you could hook it to one of the switches terminals an the other terminal of the switch to a wire that goes to ground. you turn the switch off to make the car die and turn it back on to use the car. using a switch that is rated for 5 amps or more would work fine. you ought to find a local car club of guys that build old streetrods and someone there could do a more precise hands on diagnosis and probably a better cure.
