The windshield on the 70 GS has a leak on the upper right hand corner. Its the original glass. If Im going to take it out to reseal it, I might as well just put a new piece in there. After almost 44 years, its all pitted and scratched. In direct sunlight, the pitting diffuses the light and it gets hard to see out of. Anyway, these are the markings on the glass- SHADED SOFT-RAYLOFSAFETY PLATE AS-1 CV-CLAMINATED ANTENNA DOT 15 M21 LOF is Libby Owens Ford- the manufacturer The AS-1 is the federal clarity specification for windshield glass as opposed to body glass CV is November 1969 which coincides with everything else on the body and frame What I dont know is what "-C" is after the date code. I think its a plant code. And Im also at a loss for what the last line signifies. Can anyone shed any light on what these other numbers mean? And what kind of glass should I get? Do you think I should spend the extra couple bucks to get the right markings on the glass and have it date coded? Does it matter? o No:
Jason, Per Duane's Date Coding book, the DOT15 is the Dept of Transportation Certification #. M21 is the glass Model Number. Also, The 'C" is the plant code as you stated. If at some point you plan on restoring the car, I would spend the extra money and get the date coded glass. I put one from Pilkington in my 70 convertible. HTH Larry
Thanks Larry. Does Duane's book list what plant the C represents? From my research, LOF was bought by Plinkington glass. They have a website called Plinkington Classics and offer a service where they will sandblast the LOF markings and date codes. I'll have to talk to my glass guy
No mention of plant codes but as your Stage 1 was Flint built, it would somewhere in the Midwest. FYI, as I remember the cost for the date code added about $50 to the cost of the windshield. Larry
Jason , I think it is well worth the money to get the dates. I bought one of these and my body guy cracked it putting on the stainless. He bought me another one from his source and the glass he got was much thicker than the one I got. His was the same thickness as original. The antenna wires were spaced correctly and was black like original. Beware of date coded glass that is "discount". There are some cheapos out there..
I've dealt with Auto Clty Classic before. About 10 years ago I bought a dated coded replacement drivers side door glass for the 69Z-28. Additional $50 but worth it for an original numbers matching car. What was strange is that the original glass shattered while the car was sitting in storage in my back garage. Must have been temperature related or something. Larry
Larry that happened to my F150. Back glass shattered for no reason. I remember parents station wagon big side glass shattering on a hot day when I was a kid as well.
