Why can't I spin the tires?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by cstanley-gs, Apr 20, 2006.

  1. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    After reading that another member could put his car sideway with a 350 and a 4 barrel carb, I need to ask, why cant I do that too !! Im jealous....

    I have a 72 GS 350 matching numbers.
    It all original as far as I know.
    I recently put a new timing chain on it when I had the engine out, and when I had it upside down on the stand, all internals looked new like it had been rebuild at some point.

    It has headers (which Im getting ready to take off because I find them loud)
    and the complete dual exhaush. I believe 2 inch. its a small pipe.
    Currenty has a HEI distributor
    I also have 15" wheels and P235 BF Goodrich TAs on it. Big Rubber
    The original non-posi rear end is there too i believe has 3.08's
    Also, 4 wheel drums.

    Even a with the brake on, the car doesnt spin.
    Sometimes if I go around a corner, I can get a very small chirp.. but I want more.

    The question is, what do I have to do to get the rear wheels to brake loose?
    I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds to put back on and then plan a 2 1/2 inch system with a H or X pipe.

    What else can I do ?
    Id like to keep the stock appearance, but hidden modifications are fine with me.

    Someone mentione to me that the 4 wheel drums might be preventing the rear to spin as the presssure on all 4 wheels is the same?
     
  2. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Any bogs? What is your timing set at, both initial and total?
     
  3. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    the car never bogs on me.. and it will pull hard though all the gears.

    not sure what you mean about internal timing but I put the new timing chain on with both points lined up.

    To tell you the truth, when I put the engine back in I never checked the timing, it started right away so I though all was good.

    I got a timing light for christmas this year, but have no idea how to use it yet.
     
  4. sharkmonkey

    sharkmonkey Give me something to hit!

    That's what I was about to ask.
    Sounds like retarded timing.
     
  5. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    Hi -

    It's initial timing, not internal.

    Here is a post you NEED to read, courtesy of 'The Wizard'!
     
  6. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    so having the marks lined up on the timing chain is correct?

    So I may need to advance the timing. Can I just turn the distribut for that?

    Ill get the timing light out and play with it, what would you recommend the timing to be on the timing cover?
     
  7. Marco

    Marco Well-Known Member

    You need to read Larry's post linked above. It is a combination of both initial timing and advance timing for a 'ground pounder'

    And yes, with headers and a 'peg-leg', you should be leaving a streak on the pavement.

    Stupid question #2 - Is your distributor installed at a 180 degree difference?
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Valve timing, and ignition timing are 2 different things. Your ignition timing is what we are concerned with here, and it can make the difference between your car being a slug, or a tire burner. The valve timing is set with the timing gears and chain. It cannot be adjusted without removing the timing cover, and adjusting the gear and chain position. If you lined up the gear marks correctly, your valve timing is correct. The engine will not run with the distributor 180* out, so that is not your problem. The problem is the initial and total timing, and how fast you are getting all the mechanical advance in. You really shouldn't expect your Buick to run it's best if you haven't checked the ignition timing. Read my post linked above. That is a start. I tried to make it as simple as possible, but if you have no basic understanding of auto engines, you may have questions, so ask away.
     
  9. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    This is all great information guys. Thanks to you all.
    I think I have a plan for Saturday now.

    -- to figure out how to use a timing light.... gotta learn sometime..
     
  10. 71buickskylark

    71buickskylark Buicks kick A$$!!

    So out of curiosity, is it possible to do a burn out with 4 drum brakes? If so, how do you do one? Thanks... :3gears:
     
  11. kwanderi

    kwanderi Keefer

    I just floor it, even up to a 20 MPH rolling start, and the tires just scream for mercy on mine.

    No brake required to get em started.
     
  12. EasyCompany7

    EasyCompany7 Semper Fi

    boy i love having a clutch :3gears:
     
  13. 71buickskylark

    71buickskylark Buicks kick A$$!!

    That's one thing I don't have, a clutch. However, I can stomp on the gas and make a nice 15 ft. line, but how does one actually stand still and make the tires smoke? :Do No:
     
  14. Justa350

    Justa350 I'm BACK!

    C'mon are you kidding? It's a brake stand. You hold the brakes and floor it and the motor overpowers them and spins the tires, but the car stays still:) A smarter solution is a line lock though. Sounds like there is something awry with cstanley's rig. My motor was almost stock before the turbos and could burn the 31x18.5 Mickey's, even with my locker. Gotta love that bore/stroke on these SBB's!
     
  15. Floydsbuick

    Floydsbuick Well-Known Member

    Don't forget to see if the vacuum advance is working. A bad one will cause your car to dog off the line.
     
  16. mhgs

    mhgs it just takes money !!

    burnem....

    heck my little ole 350 ....a few mods though will burn em easy in second !! And yes Larry is right !! the total should shoot for about 38-40 depending on your gas ....I like to start with 18 initial and mecahanical then would be 20-22...

    Mark
     
  17. Joe Kelsch

    Joe Kelsch Eat Mo' Rats

    The car that got me into Buicks was able to do a sweet burnout. It was a 72 GS 350 3.08 posi, and it was only running on 7 cylinders with 190,000 miles. Certainly yours would be able to do one also. I would have to agree with the others. Timing is probably the cause here. I think the factory tag says to set the initial at 6 degrees at 600 rpm. Not to sure. I know my Skylark 455 likes 10 degrees initial and comes in at 38 total.

    If its not your timing check out your carb. See if its even opening.
     
  18. cstanley-gs

    cstanley-gs Silver Mist

    It worked !

    Well I got my timing light out tonight.

    Warmed up the car, and it was at 9

    I turned the distibutor and set it at 2

    And what a difference. I still cant brake the tire loose from a stop or with the brake on, but if I go around a corner from a stop sign, she will squeel one tire.

    I plan to play a bit more with it this weekend. The tag on the rad cover says 4 at 650 RPM. After changing it tonight my idle RPM is about 1000. I think this is because I adjusted the carb with the timing on 9. So I'll have to adjust that too this weekend and see if I can squeeze a little more out of her... :laugh: :laugh: :bglasses:

    Thanks for all you help guys! You made my day!
     
  19. Justa350

    Justa350 I'm BACK!

    I hate to rain on the parade but it seems odd that it runs stronger with less initial. I would suggest you try a setting of 12-15 at idle. This will bring your idle rpm up a lot, but you will probably find that with a little tweaking it will idle better and have a lot more grunt right off idle. This is because the idle transfer slot in the carb bore will have less exposure due to the reduced throttle blade position and will give the idle mixture screws a greater impact on idle quality. It will also help the impact of the squirter pump because it will have slightly more stroke again due to the reduced throttle position. The increased timing will build low rpm cylinder pressure which should help get those tires squealing right off the line. Add in some lighter advance springs and I think you'll get some smoke!

    Good luck and have fun with the tinkering!
     
  20. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    I may be wrong but I think because he still has the points dist that means he needs a lower initial advance. I would switch to a HEI and start from there but thats just my opinion. I hope it works out for you and I have no dought that your motor can fry the tires!!!!
     

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