OP. Doing a timing cover & Chain is a Saturday job. Really it pretty easy.. My earlier post LMAOROTF is referring to get a hack Mechanic to do the job.. First thing the hack is charge you about 2000 to do the initial job that he has never done before. If he's a smart hack he may do the research on just how the job is done.. Odds of that happening is Nile because his uncles brother in law did a buick timing job 33 yrs ago... Now that he's bleeped the job up he's going to blame it on you motor was shot to begin with. Then the moron is going to suggest to put a chevy wreaking yard motor in your buick
I would not go to a hack for help, ha ha ha I have two local shops that have been around for some time, one works on old cars on a regular basis. They both have old timer mechanics, not some young HACK that only has seen modern cars. Well is there video around that shows how to do this, the 350. I have seen one bigger Buick motor but it was not specific to the job I may do. What is the sequence in which I pull it all apart. My fear is that I break a bolt. I never have tapped one out, stuff like that scares me in doing this job. I would think this job is not a 2k buck job, maybe 600-700? if I supply parts?
Knowing I have heated this motor up pretty good, knowing I see no oil in the rad fluids or rad fluid in the oil, knowing after the over heat I have driven it a few times (got back home before a overheat) and the car runs fine, should I do a compression check on the car?
It wouldn't hurt. If it was running alright last time you drove it, it's probably fine. I would just concentrate on the coolant leak because this is where you may start saying "while I'm in here..." and things will start snowballing. The next thing you know, the engine is on a stand, and the body is off the frame and now it's the year 2025.
I drove it after I replaced the tstat after the overheat I had and it was driving just fine around town, once I took a short jump on the HWY is when the temp gauge I installed started showing it heating up. I got it home and parked it at that point. At that point going on the idea the radiator was shot. So new rad and all new hoses later the cover starts leaking. Well at this point I am thinking if I should tackle this repair or pay someone. I'd think it is a 600-800 job including new timing chain cover (I see them on ebay for around $150, installing a timing chain, water pump and gaskets, prob a new oil pickup etc.
what is the sequence in doing this job after taking out rad, fan etc? Pull WP, Pull Distrib, Pull FP, Pull balancer, then pull the timing chain cover? when you pull the cover is there anything on the back side of it I need to know about so it does not just fall off and I not know how it goes together?
You don't need to remove the radiator,unless you need more room to drill out bolts. Just remove the fan and shroud. Don't forget the front oil pan bolts that go into the cover. When you're done, before you start it, change the oil because coolant will get in the pan.
I take it the rad. is still out??? Put the lower hose back on. No need to tighten the clamp. Now jack the rear of the car as high as you possibly can. Maybe??? put some wood under the rear end on the jack pad to get it even higher if you feel it's nec. Water will now drain out, not all but better than not jacking at all. Put the car back down & pull the cover. Very little or no water will come out so hopefully no water in pan. A few drops won't hurt anything, but not a quart. Start the engine when done & after it's nice & warm, 1/2hr. or more do the oil & filter. Tom T.
So I am pulling the fuel pump first? then just take hold down bolt off and yank out the distrib, take off water pump. I assume the wp pump has to come off early in the process? I was hoping someone here could walk me through how I take this apart so I get it right. Surely some of you have done this repair?
Can I get to the oil pick up with the TC off or does the oil pan need to be off? I see that some replace this when doing this repair. I also see that they say to PACK the pickup with vaseline????
The best thing you can do is get the service manual for your car and read it, then read it again, then take it and look at your car and read it some more, then make a list and post questions as you proceed.The best thing you can do is get the service manual for your car and read it, then read it again, then take it and look at your car and read it some more, then make a list and post questions as you proceed. Get a sheet of paper and make one line "steps", then post what you have, (that you know), then folks can help you order them and fill in the "missing" and tell you what you may skip or not need to do. The distributor needs to be turned as you remove it. Sometimes they hang so do not get frustrated or ham handed. You have to have the pan off. The pick up is almost touching the bottom of the sump. You pack the oil pump gear housing with the gears in place to provide for immediate suction on start. (not the oil pickup) The other benefit to this is to allow an assembly to sit for a long time before firing up and not have to mess with the below methods. A lot of folks will simply spin prime the pump with the distributor out using a shaft in a drill, inserted into the distributor bore and into the oil pump drive shaft. Another method is to fill an oil filter and quickly install it (gonna be a mess), and/or poor oil in through the oil pressure sender boss in the block to fill the pump enough that it starts picking up oil almost immediately. The last thing you want to include in the work is frustration. Realize it is going to take time and you are going to be on a lot of new ground. Nobody is born knowing how to do this, some are more fortunate than others with a knack for picking things up very fast, and absorbing and understanding the whole of it, and others struggle, but almost anyone can effectively work on mechanical things. A water pump/timing cover is one of the more "complex" things, because there is so much "stuff" in one place. It's an "onion" and your peeling back layers, fixing or replacing and putting them back in place. (Yes, there will be a tear or two). Things that will help. -Zip lock baggies for parts. -Sharpies for noting the parts bags. ---for example, "Power Steering bracket hardware" in one baggy, and "alternator bracket hardware" in another baggie. -Small/medium boxes for baggies and parts that go together. (helps keep things separate grouping) ---You can number the "assemblies" or baggies as you take them off, then reverse the numbers when putting things back together. (Sometimes things come apart in one order, but reassembly may not be in reverse order, but sometimes easier to change the order of a part going back on.) -Once you have everything apart, clean and inspect. mating surfaces should be fit checked and lightly flat filed, or new sheet of proper grit sandpaper on glass (for flatness) and circular sanded (Karate Kid- Wax On/Wax Off). -All bolt holes/threads chased with proper tap. -Carb/brake cleaner helps, but make sure you have eye protection, because you will wash your eyes with cleaner! -Inspect all bolts and fastener hardware, replace anything that shows any damage (or, if budget allows, all of it). The few dollars you spend can save a great deal of aggravation on a rebuild/re-assemble otherwise frustrated by a broken fastener or stripped threads in a component. There is a lot more, but that is a start. Again, it's "eating an elephant". One bite at a time. But it can be rewarding and enjoyable to see your finished work.
I sold a car today that allowed me to finally move the Buick into to the garage. I topped off the radiator, NO LEAK from where it was coming from at the timing chain cover. Just a little dribble. I moved the car to the garage, I saw just a little dribble on the driveway, like a 3 foot line of light fluid. I put in the garage hours ago and it has no leaked a drop. WTH???????
Well I sold my Tbirb and have one Miata to sell then I can have no loans and lose two car insur payments monthly (jesus I was stupid to buy toys on loans, not again) and have the Buick as the only Toy. Pressure test makes no sense in this instance. It leaked in that spot with no pressure on it. It is a tiny bit when I moved it. I plan at this point to let someone get in there and work on it. Thanks for all the advice given here see ya when it is fixed.
Remove the radiator cap and then see if it leaks. With the cap on there can be a slight vacuum that holds the fluid in. From the perspective of, "If it ain't broke don't fix it." is the coolant leak your only issue right now? If so, it certainly isn't necessary to replace the front cover, and doing that can cause more difficult issues to appear. The procedure is to first replace all hoses and clamps with new ones. If there is a hose barb, such as the water pump inlet, that is seriously pitted or corroded, do a proper cleaning job and then decide whether to replace the offending part or seal it up. There is no reason why you can't build up a layer of sealant and let it cure before installing the hose. Jim
I put all new hoses on, new rad, and cleaned up the worse looking parts which were the water pump inlet/outlet where they had a buildup of crude where the hoses were, like solid green build up. There is a little pitting but in decent shape. I was able to clean up all the other places where other hoses connected. I am comfortable that those things are good to go. I'd think that the place where the TC cover was leaking needs to be fixed. I did think that with the cap on it would be the reason it was not leaking. But once it is leaking wont it leak no mater what? Should I put some sealant in the radiator and let it fly and see what it does?
I went out in the garage and ran it for about 20 min at idle, the temp stayed at 185. If I upped the rpm's a little the temp went down a few degree. Still leaking a tiny tiny bit from TC place it has been. I am sure a proper pressure test now would show that the weak link now. TC needs removed and sealed if not replaced. I would assume if my over heats were from a bad head gasket letting it run for 20 min it would have heated up more than 185. I don't see a way around having to fix this cover leak.
Went back out look at the motor, no leaks other then the same spot at the TC cover. It is not dripping but it wet. I looked at the rest of the motor for any leaks, bone dry.
