Hello all, this topic was recently brought back to light again, and it would be good to share with others that have changed their pumps as well. When did your horsepower requirement outstrip your fuel supply abilities?
I started with an electric pump almost right away, when I first put my car together had a new stage 1 pump, it lived just a few months and I was done with a mechanical pump. my first electric pump was a holley red on a dead head system. I ran this for years with no issue. I burnt myself on it one day and knew it shouldn't be that hot.....that when I did my homework found out about return system swapped over and went to Barry grant 280 and been running it ever since. the only thing I run a mechanical pump on is my boat.
When I bolted on my aluminum heads, I upgraded my fuel system. I ran a Holley Red electric pump as a pusher for the Stage1 pump, teed in to the rubber supply line from the tank. When the TSP 470 went in, I upgraded to the CV Products mechanical pump, Robb MC sender and -8AN fuel line from the tank to pump.
I got a Holley Blue electric pump with 3/8" feed and return lines. My system was a dead head (69 Riv's didn't have return lines) but I ran a return line back to the tank from the pressure regulator and no more issues since!
After the second pump on the Riv sucked the life out of itself I went with the RobbMc 550hp pump and ran 1/2 lines to the bottom of the tank with a 5/16 return. No more fuel starvation problems.
I havent yet - I run a long case Stage 1 pump, and I've found that those and stock lines are good till at least mid 12's.
When I put the nailhead in my 1964 Skylark, I also changed the fuel tank for future EFI. I purchased a Spectra Premium tank with an EFI pump and replaced the body fuel line with a 3/8" line. (and am in process of changing the dual quad carbs to dual quad FiTech EFI) I run an Aeromotive high bypass regulator at the tank (with the carb spring) and return right back to the tank, then feed the carbs without a return line. ** I have had no trouble the in tank pump at all, so I bought another for my 1968 Skylark that is in "cocoon stage" transforming into a new beasty and will be topping it off with FiTech EFI as well. **My cousin does the same thing with his 1970 Chevelle 468 and similar fuel setup (FiTech, Spectra Tank/pump, high bypass regulator at the tank and has had no issues with delivery, overheating of the pump or return.
All I can say is I've run 12.7's, and I've know pleanty of people that have run 12.5's. on stock set ups. I also have a friend with a 70 Cutlass with a 430 small block that had a lot of trouble with big lines and an electric pump at 12.3 until he sumped his tank... so really, who knows, right?
Even when running only in the 12s a car that attains a certain level of 60 ft times can have the fuel stall in the line from the tank due to G forces if there is no pusher pump.
All the tanks that are mean for fi have some type of setup in them to keep the pump pickup in the fuel. Can't be sloshing fuel all over the tank and expect the pump to keep up. And it is bad news for a pump to be run dry as that fuel cools the pump. But I guess with an external pump it would be even worse.
I don’t mean to jack your thread but I’m dropping my 430 in my 67 wildcat in a couple of weeks and I want to upgrade my fuel system before the engine goes in. The 430 has a TA 212 cam, original ported iron heads, b4b intake and TA shorty headers. I’ll probably get some aluminum heads in the future, what type of fuel system upgrade should I look for.
I guess my car will run better with a bigger fuel pump,but I'll repeat myself,and still get a beating from all about my running 11.70 with a stock S-I pump and stock fuel line.Larry is a witness to that and Jason can tell you how my car runs as is,he's been in it while my friend Stacy stepped on the gas fairly hard.Bruno.
It depends on what type of system you want, an electric pump system or a mechanical pump system. I chose a mechanical pump. It is simpler IMO. I used the Robb Mc 1/2" sender unit. http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/1076_gmsend.html I used Aeroquip push lok hose from the tank to the CV Products mechanical pump that I got from Jim Weise. To do a system with an electric pump, you'll need to sump your existing gas tank, and then mount the electric pump lower than the tank and run the fuel line and a return to a Fuel Pressure Regulator. The other way is to buy another tank meant for an in tank fuel pump, or use the Aeromotive stealth fuel pump and install it in your current tank. https://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/0..._term=4579809528996370&utm_content=Aeromotive
Bruno, No one disputes that your car went 11's with the Stage1 pump. That same motor met it's demise because of damaged rod bearings. My position is, at your power level, the Stage1 pump is certainly marginal, if not hanging it's tongue out. Even if you didn't feel the car nose over, it still could have been lean at the top end of the track, and it might have gone faster with a proper fuel system more fitted to your power level. Running lean at the top end of the track is begging for detonation which takes out rod bearings, and risks other damage. Why risk that? For bragging rights? And yes, Jason told me your car was scary fast when Stacy road tested it. I'm thinking it is faster than your previous engine, so why risk the engine for bragging rights? It needs a better fuel system. Put one in, and then you can kick my butt.
If you remove the sock from stock pickup you can run an electric pump low on the frame rail with 1/2 line. Good for 10.60s in my car before I went with a cell.
With the first build went with a fram can fuelfilter mallory pump, regulator oil filled gague , return system. Modified the sending unit. Brazed in a 3/8 return.
When I finally put a fuel pressure gauge on the car I had already been running a fastest of 11.58 at 115 1/2. This was with a stage one pump and stock fuel lines. Problem was it was 3 pounds at the top. I bought a Rob Mac 550 with a regulator And half inch lines. And now have a steady 6 1/2 pounds start to finish. I want to make note that even at the 1/8The pressure was below 3 1/2. The peace of mind of not going Lean is worth it. And I know I will be ready for more cam etc. As I saw in a previous post I believe the “tongue was hanging out of the stage one pump “without the change I would probably have begun to see problems.
