Still building our car, and getting closer. Local track uses NHRA rules for safety, but I have some questions that I need help with. 1. Do I need to change the real wheel studs? I remember back in the old days, I had to have open lugs and long studs for slicks. We will be running Mickey Thompson sportsman pro tires. 2. Do I need a drive shaft loop? what are the requirements for that? I couldn't find any info online. I ordered the rule book, but haven't received it yet and don't want to put anything together until I make sure I do it right.
Hi Mark. You need the long studs and if you run slicks the loop is a must. Now i'm not %100 sure where you race but thats prety much standard procedure. How's the progress??:3gears:
Thanks Joe. Guess I'll get long studs. I put one axle in yesterday and then thought, now is the time to change those if I'm going to have to do it. Car is coming along. Rear is together, exhaust is hear. Still cleaning and painting the under hood area, rest of car is ready.
I just installed the JEGS (or maybe it was Summit) generic brand loop in my 72 GS and (after trimming the loop itself so it would not hang so low) it fit fine. You may want to reconsider the MT Sportman Pros (if you have some power). I and others have found that they don't really hook up very well. MT E.T. Streets would do better at the strip, just stay home if it is cloudy.
I've already got the MT pros. Guess when I burn them up I'll get something else. Hopefully, we can make it hook up. Thanks for the info on the loop.
Mark even if the track does not require the safety equipment , use it for your own safety . Over the last 40 years at race tracks I have seen so many freaky accidents with injuries that could have been prevented with some simple safety device .
Excellant point Mike. And since my 16 year old son is the driver....I have ordered the stuff. Hopefully, we will go fast enough to need it, but not use it.
I can not say enough about safety equipment . Back in the 60s the drag strip I ran at regularly required any solid lifter Chevy to run a scatter shield and engine strap . Ok I complied with the rules , which is why I am here today to talk about it . I exploded a flywheel at 10,000 rpm . Part of it came in the car with me . I still have what is left of the scatter shield turned inside out . Extensive damage to the car (totaled ) and all I got was scared near death and a cut lip .
Wheel studs should be 1/2" past the end of the open ended lug nuts. I agree with everyone else on the driveshaft loop - get one even if you only go 13s. A broken shaft flopping around under the car can do a lot of damage and can also cause a car to "pole vault" which is not pretty. Bottom line - overkill is the smart thing to do when it comes to saftey!
thanks everybody for help. We are starting to put everything together, with the long studs, shaft loop, etc. We are moving battery to back, but still don't know where to put a cutoff switch since it will be a street legal car and mostly driven daily. Also having a new drive shaft built and will be much stronger than original. Should be mid 500's on horsepower. Dyno not done yet.
The driveshaft loop is a critical piece of equipment . Back in the day I saw a 55 Chevy big block go through the traps and drop a front U-joint . the driveshaft dug in and the car pole vaulted end over end many times and with NO roll cage and finally landed on the roof which was flat with the body . I will spare the rest of the details as I think I have made my point . Safety equipment adds a little weight but helps save lives .
I concur ... with our buick torque a driveshaft loop for even a stocker is something I'd do even if I never took it to the track
Bent6 said it in a nutshell, "OVERKILL". Build the car like it will run in the 10's and if you decide to upgrade later you won't have to change anything. It will also ensure the car is safe and maybe save you some money in the future.
