I have the 4 drums on the corners. I want to replace the bearings while i have it apart. I see several different part numbers for the bearings. Can anyone tell me what the part numbers I need are for the front?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...,1023028,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672 Different manufacturers have different part numbers.
In your opinion, is there a large quality difference there? do i get the cheap ones? I would need one of each of these for each side correct? or do you read this as the are a pair, so i need 1 set of each to do both sides? WJB WTA2 {#A2} Wheel Bearing and Race Set Info Front Outer WJB WTA6 {#A6} Wheel Bearing and Race Set Info Front Inner
Is there anything wrong with the originals? Clean and inspect them. Good condition original USA made are far superior to new Chinese bearings.
X2, why fix something that is not broken? Take it apart, clean the bearings and repack them. Replace the grease seals. Get yourself a 1972 Buick Chassis Manual, plenty on ebay. Bet there are lots of videos on youtube on how to pack bearings. Have a look.
i get a sound from both fronts when we are driving. Cant explain it but it goes cha cha cha cha from the wheel area and gets slower as we slow and faster as i go. I was going to just do the bearings, drums and shoes unless anyone has any clue what this would be.
You need to remove the drums and inspect brakes and bearings. Maybe the brake shoes are down to the rivets, a spring could have come off and is hitting the drum. Don't order parts before you see what is needed. You can spend a lot of money to not fix the problem without diagnosing the problem.
The left drum has quite a groove in it and the shoe does too. There is life left on the shoe though. Maybe i will just run them till they need replaced then. I have taken the hub off and looked at the bearings. Not sure how to tell if they are good or bad. Truth be told, one of the studs was broke on the left side and one of the lug studs have the splines stripped out on the right side so the lug just spins freely. I am going to have to drill that one out i guess to get the lug off, unless someone else has a better idea. The lugs are set in the Crager wheels so a cutoff wheel on a dremel will not work.
Obvious damage to the bearing rollers or if they are blued by heat. Otherwise, clean and repack. Jack up the wheels off the ground and spin them. Feel for any roughness or noise.
I'm a big fan of synthetic grease like the green grease you get at Advance auto parts It never hardens and will take a beating. Green Grease Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease.
Wheel Bearings will growl when they're bad. You can visually look at the bearings and races to confirm if they're good or not Good races and bearings will be smooth When they're bad and growling, the surface of the race will be pitted, maybe same with the bearing. The growling noise comes from the rollers going over the "pot holes" in the race.
I had some "cha-cha s" around here replace spindle on left side. About 10 days after I'm driving home and u hear a wha wha - wha from that side. Got it up on jack first thing. No cotter pin* bearing shot inner and outer. OK replace and pack -with- cotter pin installed. Next came a scrubbing sound when brake applied like a wheet -wheet wheet. One day I got tired of hearing that noise so I applied pedal rather firmly and was rewarded with a boing! Now I take it to same shop but didn't see other mechanicos. This time pivot bolt snapped off in spindle. And they wouldn't allow me to drill it out on the lift.I need pinion seal replaced - just hope I don't have to go back there
If you need a pinion seal replaced, stay away from those guys. If they can't install a wheel bearing correctly, they will have no idea how to replace a pinion seal without destroying the pinion bearings.
