Today I removed the front springs from my car using a spring compressor and by removing the two bolts that go through the bushings while leaving the ball joint attached. Came out no problems, doing this in the street with car on jack stands. After the springs came out I removed the lower control arms completely to have all new bushings and ball joints installed. The springs that I ordered are the 5536 part number. I see that people are using the 5450 or the 5536, I was going to order the 5450 thinking that the other would be too much from its specs but when I looked at the box my new springs for my skylark came in they were the 5536 so I stuck with the same part number. So now back to the installation. Should I attach the ball joint put in the compressed spring, then jack up the control arm and try and catch the two bolts (will have to pivot arm to get things lined up) or should I catch the two bolts, install compressed spring then jack up where ball joint is and catch it in spindle. I'm looking for the easiest method since I'm working in the street. I've seen it done both ways in a shop up on a lift but I need the best method for working on my stomach basically. Thanks. Allen allioop108@aol.com
The easiest way is to take it somewhere and have them deal with it. I connected the ball joints, then compressed the springs and put them in. If you don't have a garage full of equipment, it will be the easiest (but maybe not the fastest) way.
I just did this job on my 71 Centurion. I installed the control arm bolts first, then inserted the compressed spring into it's slot and jacked up the control arm until I could screw on the castle nut. Remember to tighten the control arm fully after you've let the full weight of the car rest on the springs. Also, make sure you put the control arm bolts facing the rear of the car. If you put them in facing the front they will rub against your tie-rods. Both mistakes I made on my first attempt.
OK did you have any problem seating spring correctly meaning when I compressed my springs to remove they took on an arc shape (not straight but curved under compression) so that means I will have to figure out where to put the compressor in the new spring so that the bottom of the spring sits where its supposed to in the lower control arm and curves the right way so the control arm can swing up. maybe I had the spring compressor arms in the wrong place. There is one long and one short on the top and ditto for the bottom. Should the two long arms be in line or should a long arm be in line with a short arm. Yes about the bolt direction, I actually had to change the direction of the back one last year as it poke a hole through my headers. That was why this time the job was a bit easier since the bolts were out not so long ago. However you should have heard me cursing last year when I had to remove those rusted stuck bolts :af: Allen allioop108@aol.com
Wow i found a great thread on another forum for installing front coil springs. Don't know if its against the rules to post a link, anyone? If not I will post a link. Will be using this method since it seems the safest and easiest. Allen allioop108@aol.com
front coil spring install link Here is the link, you may have to read down a bit. It looks a lot safer and easier the how most people would compress a spring. If there is any objections then say so before I go through with the method. http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthread.php?t=386527&highlight=coil+spring+install Allen allioop108@aol.com
HOLY COW can it get any harder After a 2 hour struggle I finally got the passenger side together, I sure hope the spring is positioned right. I was going to do by installing 2 control arm bolts then attaching ball joint but the angle, the spring was bending the opposite way and there was no way to get in there and wack it into its seat. So I attached ball joint then jacked up the opposite end. The front bolt lined up immediately and went in, the rear bolt took 5 years off my life :rant: One more side to go. I dont think I will ever do this again. I will pay a shop to do the job which means removing headers, towing car, 3 times the original cost now. This was so far the worse job I've ever done on a car at home. I did springs in my skylark at the shop using the lift, was pretty easy compared to the street but its not always easy doing your car at work if you know what I mean. Hey if anyone on the board wants to make money and do the other side by all means do contact me. Allen allioop108@aol.com
Finished drivers side today, a lot easier this time since I followed the advice that I should have followed the first time. Put in two control arm bolts, compressed spring and put jack under ball joint. as control arm started to touch spring I pushe spring toward the center, gave the jack handle about two pumps and spring snapped into the seat. jacked up arm a bit more and connected ball joint. Less then 20 minutes compared to about 2 hours for sundays battle. Allen
I used a pipe wrench to twist the spring into its pocket before I jacked it up to conect the lower ball joint Did it without a spring compresser (pain in the A but it can be done)
i know this link thread is old. But, I have a rented internal coil spring compressor from advance auto. I can compress the spring but then the top of the compressor shaft is hitting the internal part of the frame. I spent 5 hours on one coil and finally gave up. I tried the coil/jack lift from the bottom but could not get the shock to compress enough to connect the lower ball joint. the body started to lift (with motor in) and I could not set it. I found another forum, forgot where. They mentioned to take one set of hooks out. Place the threaded shaft from on top of the frame though the little 5/16" hole and connect the lower "threaded" hook at the bottom and pull/compress the coil spring that way. But of course the spring flexed the opposite direction to where I needed it to go.
this thread is old. But, if you have patients you can do the coil springs in just a few minutes. My first spring took about two days. The 2nd one took about 10 mins. Secret like previous post. Install from the top of frame "and Do not use a Impact" wrench. Manually turn slightly bend spring with breaker bar gradually use hydraulic jack a little at a time moving the "A" arm up as you are tightening the compressor. - just a fyi
i have used a spring compressor several times to remove & replace the front coils. used a impact wrench to tighten the nut on the tool. the first time i used the tool, i had to cut an inch or two off the threaded rod. i might have second thoughts using this tool on the ls6 chevelle springs. best advice is to be careful.
