Sounds like a stupid question I know. I just changed out the primary rods and jets to the recommendations provided on the forum to resolve a rich condition. The car starts great on half a crank once it has been started previously. However, I need a new technique for that first start of the day. Five pumps of the gas peddle seems to much as it backfires through the carb before starting. Should I pump the gas when starting or hold it to the floor. What your technique? Thanks everyone, Mike
The same way the car was designed from the factory : 1 Pump to the floor in cold weather to set the choke and leave up and don't touch the gas pedal again . Crank and car should start and run at fast idle. This is all assuming the carb has been set up properly . All my cars start the same way . If they have been sitting and gas has evaporated from the carb or leaked down it will take 2-3 turns of the engine to replenish the carb fuel bowl .
Don't let people tell you since you live in a warm climate that you don't need the choke. GM didn't do anything different with cars going to different areas . They had the chokes working on ALL vehicles
I havent got the choke hooked up, and my car sometimes sit for weeks between driving, so i start cranking and pumping at the same time.. Normally takes 3-4 slow pumps and its on...
Thanks guys! The choke is on with a recent rebuild. Just seems to start differently with the slightly less gassey setup.
I believe every single old car has a trick or a certain method of starting it...well now my impala is turn key listen for fuel pump to stop and fire it up no pumping Fitech efi it's going to take some time to get use to.
It won't start with the air cleaner on now. Starts warm in half a crank. Could changing my initial down by 2* caused this or is it due to the new rod/jet or an incorrect A/F screw issue? Any recommendations to improve this cold start ability would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Mike
New air filter solved the starting but I need to pump it to keep it running. Any slight adjustment I can make?
Have set the idle mixture for max vacuum? A turn on the high idle screw will raise the choke rpm. I'd look at idle mix first. Turn the initial back up too
If the choke is working and slowly opening then all you need to do is adjust the fast idle speed. very hard to see on the right side of the quadrajet
The vacuum change at low rpms is hard to gage. Can I do it at 1500 rpm? I opened them from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 out. Should I really start at 2 1/2 out? It seems all the same. It does stall when closing them. Thanks, Mike
Has this been solved? Warm up the car to operating temperature by whatever means. Disconnect vacuum advance at hot idle and turn the mixture screws in and out until you have reached maximum vacuum found on a vacuum gauge. If idle ever reaches 1500 rpm or vacuum climbs over 22" reduce it by turning the idle stop screw out to about 800, arbitrarily lower. Tune for max vacuum, reconnect vacuum advance, and turn idle stop screw in to achieve desired hot idle rpm. Shut car down for the night. Morning, or a long time so the car has cooled all the way down. Hop in car, give one full pump(engaging the choke), and crank until the car starts without touching the gas. For example, we say the car starts and begins to idle at 1900 rpm. Take the fast idle screw underneath the choke stove and back out the screw to achieve an idle between 1100 - 1500, varies on preference and camshaft, but 1350 works well for my cold engine. Congrats you are very well tuned if this is followed. Anyone else have more tips and/or a better procedure?
I did find the problem. The problem was the linkage inside the air horn that links the Choke Plate to the lower arm inside the carb was disconnected. I re-connected it and all is well now (it starts with ease with no pumping). I will however adjust everything per John's technique above next. Thanks for all the advise. Mike