Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by MrSony, Nov 5, 2019.
I mean, what can I really say.
Dare I ask where the entire rest of the starter is?
Paying it forward...
I saw the thread where you were asking about the 350.
I am in the process of buttoning up a 430 to go into my 1968 Skylark and I have a running 350 in the car now.
If we can figure out how to get the engine to you, it is yours.
Pan to carb and radiator to transmission (ST300). Starter is still attached to the engine...
It runs well, has good oil cold and warm oil pressure, but is a bit "loose and noisy" when it first starts and has an exhaust manifold leak on the drivers side near the front. It is a low compression engine (original to the car, SP code), has the S Divider/Eddlebrock carb set that was put on before I bought it years ago.
If you need/want the radiator and shroud, I'll include them.
I have no need to keep the parts.
The engine is most likely a good rebuild candidate.
I am in the Florida panhandle. So, if you want to come pick everything up, let me know.
In my trunk. Split in half.
Oh man th as it's a nice hole, I hate it when #8 really wants out and free
Thanks for the offer, but I'm all the way up in Iowa, and am actually building a short block (now a long block I suppose) that I was gonna replace this engine with before this happened. Guess I better get on it.
Ah!. I did not realize you had another engine.
Too bad about that, sometimes that's just all there is to say. Best of luck with the replacement.
So just trying to learn here but this is caused by the timing being off right?
I'm thinking that oil pressure gremlin, finally found a way out of the engine.
A disconnected connecting rod when connecting with none connected parts will disconnect connected parts with much noise and visual effect.
Out of curiosity, what was the oil pressure when it went boom?
What a bummer. Sorry man.
WTF! Even my special repair schmutz probably won't fix it.
Mann I had a 350 go just exactly that way , awhile back. What a mess!
I feel your pain
The main reason I always recommend loosing the cast iron rods and either go nascar take out or Molnar. I wouldn't even trust the cap screw rods at any level of build.
Mr. Sony ran that motor with low oil pressure for quite a while. I bet the rod bearings are down to the steel backing with large clearances. # 8 must have been the worst one.
37.5 at 3k
What's odd is it never started knocking till it blew. Within 10 seconds went from a light rapping to boom.
You gonna do an autopsy on it just to see what broke, and where?
Post pics if yah do
At 3000 rpm things happen pretty quick.
My cousin had a 66 Charger with a 383 way back when, engine locked up going 35 mph, no warning, no noises