Well, this is one of my all time best screw-ups. I was changing out the water pump on my '65 401 in my electra. All of the bolts in the water pump were fine, I didn't have a bit of trouble with those. My problem happened when I was re-attaching the alt/ac bracket. I was tightening the head bolt that holds the bracket on, to 120lb/ft, a number that I had read on the 'net. wrong!!! I found afterwards that the torque specs are listed in the steve dove book for the nailheads, 40-50 lb/ft! I now have a head bolt broken off in the block. Is there any possibility that this can be removed without removing the head? Failing that, can it be done with the head removed, but the engine in the car? Is there any chance I could have damaged the block (cracked it) from this? Thanks guys. ou: ou: ou: ou: ou: ou: ou:
Remove the head and grab a pair of vice grips...clamp it on the bolt and turn it loose. That should do it. Did you get all the way to 120lbs before it broke?
If you have access to a left hand drill bit (drills in the opposite rotation) and some kind of sleeve to keep it centered, you MIGHT get lucky and spin it out. I have pulled this trick on several problems. Just a thought from a retired machinist. Good luck! Frank P.
Actually, I had it at 120lb/ft once.... then I had to loosen it back up because I couldn't get the last water pump bolt thru (the one that goes thru the bracket and the pump). I just loosened it up a few turns so there was a little play in the alt bracket, then that water pump bolt went right in. I was tightening it to 120 lb/ft a second time, I was getting close to 120, I'm sure, I was putting alot of force on the wrench, and SNAP! ou: ou:
Get yourself a set of "EZouts" from like sears or something. All you have to do is drill a hole down the middle of the bolt(regular drill bit).. then put the tool in the hole, its a left hand thread spiral thing that grips inside the hole and will spin it out. Just be sure to not get any metal shavings in the hole.. that'd suck. I did this on a starter bolt that broke off, I was suprised at how easy it was. even if you reached 120 when it broke the bolt shouldn't be that tight in there since the head (the part that was applying the pressure) of the bolt is broke off. I'd just be sure to run the new bolt in there by hand to see if the threads are damaged. Good luck
Scott, most likely the block is ok. How far down did the bolt break? Hopefully, it snapped high enough up so that you can grab ont it with the head removed and back it out. If it snap off flush with the block, this could present a whole nuther set of problems. You might be able to drill down into the bolt with the head on the car and try an easy out. By the way, head bolt torque on the nailhead is 65 to 80 ft/lbs, I use 80. Jim Burek P.A.E. ENTERPRISES
I'm unsure that you will have to remove the heads to do this. There is more than enough space to work in my Riv. I would take the WP out, tape the holes so no filings fall in, and do all the above. Removing the head opens up other potential issues, and if you don't need to, I would leave it shut.
Problem Solved! Well, I made my way out of this one unscathed, luckily! :beer: What I did, was remove the ac/alt bracket and move it out of the way. I used a 31/64" center finding punch, then, using a regular punch, laid into it with my 3lb sledge. (Not too hard, but I wanted it to be marked very well). I ran out to MSC and picked up a 23/61" Left Hand jobber drill bit ($6.90). I had everything lubed up real well with PB Blaster, and just as soon as the bit started to bite into the bolt, it backed it right out of the hole. I then broke out my trusty magnetic screwdriver, and pulled the broken piece out. I took the broken bolt to pep boyz and got the closest match I could, in a grade 8 bolt. It was a tad longer, so I got a few flat washers to stack under the head. I'm going to button everything back up tomorrow. Thanks for all the suggestions guys!!!!
Re: Problem Solved! I'm suprised no one else said this, but I would buy the proper head bolt if I were you. Head bollts aren't just regular bolts..... unless maybe that was standard at that time. I don't have any experience with this old of an engine. 350cid
I thought he was talking about the WP to block bolts, not the hed bolts.o No: It does not make a HUGE difference if it's exact with the WP bolts as long as they are ARP5 or better does it?
Sounds to me like it was just a bolt that holds an accessory bracket to the head. Any bolt will work for that, it's not special.
BOLT Scott - What broken piece did you pull out with the screwdriver? I thought the part that broke off was the head of the bolt? - Bill
Head Bolts Using the correct bolt is a must. Notice the narrowing of the shank. These bolts are designed to stretch.
It was a cylinder head bolt... It was the forward - most head bolt on the pass. side, it holds the accessory bracket in place ( one of 6 bolts doing so ) The bolt broke at the threaded end, there was about 1 inch of threads in the block when it broke. I used a left hand drill bit to back the broken piece of the bolt out. I had to use the magnetic - tipped scredriver to get that piece out of the bolt hole after I backed it out. Yes, I put used a regular grade 8 bolt, instead of the one that's necked down like the stock one was. I'm starting to think I should get one tho. Does anyone have 1 spare 401 head bolt?
