TSP Level 2A-R Prototype Specs and testing (Larry's motor)

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by Jim Weise, Jan 22, 2011.

  1. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    Larry,

    I used the same exact system on my build, Its really nice stuff but good luck with getting the hose on the ends..........LOL...........what a PITA. I used a heater also, its just rough. I don't think you need that 90 on the sender, I used a straight and it fit in nice. Just get a nice pre filter, if you don't already have one and your good to go.

    Jims fuel pump is so nice looking its a shame you can hardly see it when its all installed.

    Good luck with this great build!
     
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I think what I will do is heat the hose, and stick the fittings in the freezer. Hopefully, it will go easier for me. I'll just need one at the tank, and the other at the fuel pump. I had planned to run some type of filter near the carburetor. I'll have to talk with Jim about that.
     
  3. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    I have the aeroquip tool to press them on. I bought it after I struggled without it. It helps a little. I will gladly ship it out to you and you can return it when done. Let me know

    You should have a pre filter
     
  4. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    You can use a bit of liquid dishwashing detergent as a lubricant too. Apply some not just on the male part of the fittings but also the ID of the hose. Prime the system and push a few pints of gasoline into a container before you attach the fuel line to the carb to get the detergent out of the lines.

    Devon
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member



    That would be great!. I'll let you know when I plan to do the install. It will be up at Readers Digest when I swap out the engines. Not sure when that will be yet.
     
  6. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I'll try that too. Thanks Devon.
     
  7. rack-attack

    rack-attack Well-Known Member

    I used the russel lube designed for push lock fittings. Without lube you won't even get it started. I also used the russel thread lock, you will need that also.

    I like the idea of freezing them, and can picture us running from the kitchen to the car on a hot day trying to get that sucker in before it warms up...............LOL........or the hose cools down:bla:
     
  8. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Better yet!

    Devon
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Today, I fabricated a new fuel line from the filter to the Q-jet, using my new flaring tool. Tightened it up and turned on my pusher pump. Leak free on the first tightening. Pulled the distributor, and primed the oil pump for about 3 minutes. A solid 80 psi on the gauge. Got in the car, pumped the gas about 5 times, crossed my fingers and turned the key. It fired on the first crank and kept running. Not even a click from the valve train. Nice and quiet. Set the timing, and let it run. Ran at about 170* just idling there. My GS is back up and running. Topped off the radiator. No leaks so far. Seemed to smoke just a bit at idle from both pipes. Probably just the guides and seals from the iron heads sitting in my garage for 6 years.

    Next order of business is to take the car over to Bruno's next weekend and install the A/C Delete. I'll drive it around some more when I get a chance. If it is dependable, I'll take it to Yardley's shindig. Then, just have to wait for the new engine to ship.:TU:
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  10. 12lives

    12lives Control the controllable, let the rest go

    :TU:

    - Bill
     
  11. K0K0

    K0K0 Jamie

    Another option to test the lifter would be a rev kit.You could use a lighter spring on the valve wich would be made up for from the rev kit spring.
    I have no idea if a sbc rev kit would fit either.I would be suprised to see a power increase but I've been wrong before.
    Jamie
     
  12. stg2NW

    stg2NW Well-Known Member

    Any updates on the 290hr setup?
     
  13. gmcgruther

    gmcgruther Well-Known Member

    I find that hard to believe, It all determines on the cam profile not so much on rather its solid or hydra, I personally talk with the cam guys at LSM System Engineering and they know alot more then most people give them credit for. I also like Cam Motion too. David Vizard is a hell of a engine builder and researcher, I talked with him the other day about the 455 BBB and he said follow his guide lines and you'll make all the power you'll ever want.. 650 to 750 hp with basic stock stuff and his cam recommandation. The proof is in all his dyno secessions, well over 2100 hrs worth. You guy's are doing a great job on building engines but using roller cams has been out for along while now. Jim I would like to see you do a engine using roller cam bearings,roller solid cam, T&D Shaft mount roller rockers, billet intake made by Marcella Manifolds, Pro systems SV1 Carb or Mike Morans Billet atomizer fuel injectors and the Big Stuff 3 system, using todays high tech coatings, with T/A's Stage 2 Track Heat heads. and Kook's Custom Headers that are designed to that engine not off the self headers. I would love to see LSM or Cam Motion make a cam for this engine. Needless to say I bet the stock block would have a hard taking the abuse this set up I just mentioned. Yes it would cost some bucks but the power out put would be damn rt awesome. If anyone has a dyno simulater plug and play and see what you get:laugh: .
     
  14. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    Hey Larry, it's July... What's the scoop???
     
  15. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Motor is back apart, didn't like some numbers in the last dyno session, so I pulled it down found it was hurting number 4 main with the new cam.. Cylinder pressure increase put it over the top here.. I was a little worried about that, but with as many pulls as we had on it, increasing with every pull, and clean oil pans and filters, I figured we would give it a shot.

    It was clearanced to be a 500-550 HP motor, that 600 number kinda came out of the blue, so I am now working it to my 600-625 HP shortblock setup for clearances and oiling.. it's power surprised even me, so we have to go back and account for that in the bottom end.

    There is a reason it's called a "prototype"..

    It will be back together shortly here.

    JW
     
  16. D-Con

    D-Con Kills Rats and Mice

    I guess the silver lining came before the cloud? Anyway, coming from someone that was apparently over my head with a high-end build, I can understand how tricky it gets at the higher power levels. I look forward to the final iteration, I'm thinking something similar on a rebuild of my 494 would make a great street-engine.
     
  17. bostongsx

    bostongsx Platinum Level Contributor

    When are you going to get that beast in your car? I was hoping to see it run at the nationals.
     
  18. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    See what Jim said two posts up. The motor is still apart. Complicating things is TSP's move to another location. Season is over, so no big deal. I'm driving the car with the iron heads back on.
     
  19. bostongsx

    bostongsx Platinum Level Contributor

    Well hopefully your up and running with this beast soon, Im sure it will be worth the wait:TU:
     
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member


    As long as I can install the engine around February or March, it will be ready for next season.
     

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