Trunk refurbishment

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by WQ59B, Jun 25, 2018.

  1. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    Ready to paint my big Buick's trunk.
    Much of the sheet metal was replaced during metal surgery. It flash rusted as the car sat for a number of years (inside), so I wirewheeled/ sanded it all clean; right now it's bare shiny steel again.

    Originally my car had nearly 100% coverage of the metal with the mats & cardboards, but that's all gone/ not getting replaced. And even though it didn't have it originally that year, I intend to spatter paint it (black/aqua).

    I am not set up to spray gun, so quart paint is out. That leaves Eastwood's spatter (which you have to clear coat) or GM has ACDelco Reconditioning paint, which I believe does NOT need clearing. Can't get that locally and have not found much in the way of internet feedback on that one.

    Plan is 1. wipe down, 2. self-etching primer, 3. AC Delco spatter paint. Ultimately I'd like to put a repro herringbone mat down, too.

    Looking for any feedback on those here who have repainted their trunks & how it went.
     
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  2. 69a-body

    69a-body Well-Known Member

    The latest method I saw had nice results. Lay down a black epoxy primer, then use the fleck paint to add color without having to depend on it for coverage.. The water based stuff I used years ago looked nice but was garbage being water soluble. I hope there is something better now
     
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  3. Dr. Roger

    Dr. Roger Stock enthusiast

    I used the AC Delco reconditioning paint (after cuting out old trunk and welding in new sheet metal). Looks just like original but is water based. You have to spray a clearcoat over it. In my case I used a satin/matte finish clearcoat. I assume you can get a rattle can of clearcoat.
     

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  4. BuickV8Mike

    BuickV8Mike SD Buick Fan

    Have you used self-etching primer before, I'm yet to have great results? My trunk is in the same state, so I'm very interested in the responses. .I liked the black base then follow up with the blue/ black spatter plan. I saw that on another thread. Clear overcoat requires lots of coats from my experience.
     
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  5. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    I cannot seem to source rattle can epoxy paint in black. Also hesitant on what I'm reading about epoxy paint fumes.
    I debated on using brush-on Rustoleum primer, but some folk were saying one should sand the Rustoleum beforeh topcoating. Plus, since most of my trunk is relatively new/smooth sheet metal, some recommend sanding that, also. My car is not a restoration and I'm trying not to obsess OR spend a week's time on this one task.

    Picked up Krylon self-etching primer. The cap is a grey/green, I assume that's the primer color. If the incoming heat wave cooperates, will vacuum out/prep the trunk and start laying down the self-etch.

    One local GM dealer could order the AC Delco Reconditioning paint, but I'd have to take the whole 6-can case @ $18 ea. Still looking there...
     
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  6. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Ditch the trunk mat. Worst thing you can put in your trunk. It retains condensation under the mat and will rust up your trunk floor. Put it in for car shows but take it out and roll it up the rest of the time
     
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  7. Redmanf1

    Redmanf1 Gold Level Contributor

  8. Dr. Roger

    Dr. Roger Stock enthusiast

    I think it takes about 2 1/2 cans of splatter paint to do the whole trunk (including the inner fenders). Don't have much to say about rattle can primer, but I have used self etch from a can. It didn't seem to do much better than just Rustoleum auto primer, but I usually get the metal pretty clean. I typically shoot epoxy primer from a gun when there might be a problem with rust. You can buy a VOC mask for spraying paint for $20 which I always use, especially in confined spaces. They are disposable and last a pretty long time.

    When I want something black that might rust I use Chassis Saver or Por-15. You can brush or shoot from a gun (after thinning). These are urethanes, but are pricey (although a quart of gun epoxy with activator is close to $100). You can paint over rust (if you clean it up a little bit first). I scuff it with a red scotch pad prior to painting over it after letting dry a few days. I've done frames and all under body parts (suspension parts, etc.) using it. You definitely need a mask with these as they are really smelly. Cheers.
     
  9. 69a-body

    69a-body Well-Known Member

    There is a product that is waterborne but dries without the need to top coat. I don't have first hand experience but might want to research it. Zolatone . you can buy a cheap harbor freight gun to shoot it. Team chevelle has some info and was an old thread here about it
     
  10. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    I did my frame with (brushed) POR-15 years ago. In retrospect I'd use Rustoleum if I were doing it today. No issues... but the car hasn't been outside the shop since it got painted. :rolleyes: If the metal isn't roughed/sanded, POR-15 can peel off surprisingly easily.
     
  11. Dr. Roger

    Dr. Roger Stock enthusiast

    Yeah, the stuff will peal off bright shiny metal that hasn't been etched, but you have to use a chisel to get it off when it's painted over rust.
     
  12. BadBrad

    BadBrad Got 4-speed?

    If you use the water based spatter (I think I used Duplicolor or something else I found at Napa) you must follow it up with a couple of coats of gloss clear (it's a pretty hard finish). Mine must be close to 20 years old now and still looks great. I did start with a light coat of black first. I regularly have stuff in the trunk.
     
  13. WQ59B

    WQ59B Well-Known Member

    Pushed the car outside, gave it a once-over with Scotchbright pads, vacuumed, wiped down with a paint prep product, then ended up going with the Krylon self-etch primer. Took 3 cans, seeemd a bit on the thin side, but I'm satisfied. Now onto the spatter paint (which I still have to decide on/ pick up). DSC05212.JPG
     
  14. Dr. Roger

    Dr. Roger Stock enthusiast

    That is a big ole trunk! Looks pretty good so far. You can order the AC delco black/aqua on ebay for about $20/can if you go that route.
     
  15. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    D4EB2140-63C8-4C69-BCB6-73F4AEB2EC3A.jpeg Mix 3 different colors (1) coat Gray flat (2) coat darker than 1st. (3) Coat teal. (2) & (3) coat turn air pressure down to 15psi. With a 2.0 Primer gun. Trust me I was amazed. Zoom in
     
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  16. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    When you use single stage urethane . Durable as all hell
     
  17. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    Just do what I did . Get a can of plasti coat . Trunk paint. Make a spray out card. Thick paper (photo paper). After sprayed you will see three different colors. Light gray, Darker gray ( witch should be (1st coat) 45 psi. (2nd coat ) lighter gray 15psi. With gun 3 times farther away. When your eyes see it you’ll know how to move your hand (easy) Then (3coat ) always teal very light blu/ Green . Repeat another swift light coat with spray gun backed off 3 times than normal 6” from panel more like 18”. I turned fan in on the splatter part. So the gun made droplets big. Just practice each coat on cardboard first. Build confidence . Last thing you want is waterborne in your trunk . Looks like crap
     
  18. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    If single stage mixed at paint store. If you buy hardener . No need to clear coat
     
  19. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

    When I wipe my hand on my trunk floor it’s textured but smooth . NOT dry
     
  20. scubasteve455

    scubasteve455 Well-Known Member

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