Transmission/Switch pitch question Took the car out yesterday and didn't make it a full block, the car started shaking so bad I thought I had a flat tire, I pulled over to check tires every thing was good, took the car around the block got her home checked the u-joints, the tail shaft and the yoke going into the differential, every thing seems ok, so I took the car out for a test drive the transmission still shifts quick and hard but I noticed the switch pitch is not working she spins the tires at about 1600-1700 RPM with or with out the S/P activated. So my questions are #1. would this be a trans problem or a TQ converter problem #2. Can I use a fixed stall converter in place of the S/P converter. #3. if I use a fixed stall converter what is recomended
Is it just at acceleration that it shudders? Does the shudder change with engine rpm or wheel speed? How's the tire balance? Does the driveline have one or more CV joints? Is the transmission mount broken? 1. Possible but not too likely 2. No, the trans has to come out and have parts swapped out to be converted to fixed pitch 3. It depends on what you're trying to do with the car Devon
It shudders worst during acceleration and shutters enough to shake the mirrors at cruising speed. I think the CV joints are good. I didn't check the transmission mount, But I will be doing that as soon as I post this. My brother also asked me to pull the drive shaft to see if it may have a twist or bend in it. I am going to do that now. If there's any thing else I should check while I have it up on stands please post it, I will check postings before I reinstall drive shaft. And thank you Devon
Had the car up on stands grabbed the 5/8 wrench to pull the drive shaft, that's when I found that the 4 bolts on the rear flange where just finger tight, I tighten them up gave it a test drive and she seems good to go, But now I have to figure out why the switch pitch is not working.
What are you using to activate the switch pitch? 12 volts to the stator connector gets you hi stall, remove the 12 volts, low stall. The stator solenoid looks similar to a kick down solenoid, and clicks the same way when you apply 12 volts. So there are 2 main possibilities. Either the 12 volts is not making it down to the transmission, or it is, and the stator solenoid is not working. Use a jumper wire from the battery and listen for the click. Test the wiring with a meter or test light. Shouldn't take you long.
Larry I am using a 3 position switch 1st position is brake activated hi stall 2nd position is full time low stall 3rd position is full time hi stall, I also installed a small light between the switch and transmission and the light comes on so I know I'm getting power that far, will check wiring from light to transmission tomorrow. Thanks
Do you know for a fact that you have a variable pitch setup and not a later trans with the TCS setup (the other reason for two electrical connections on the trans case)? Devon
Devon, I'm not sure what a TCS is, but I know I have a hi and a low stall, I ordered the trans from PAE I believe the receit said the trans came from poston and the TQ converter came from PAE. So I'm not sure what setup I have, How can I know forsure o No: . Dave
The TCS was Transmission Controlled Spark advance, an emissions device used by Buick in 70 and up vehicles. It uses a second connection at the Transmission just like a switch pitch, and some guys falsely believe they have a SP transmission based solely on the presence of two connections at the transmission. You have a Poston switch pitch which was likely built by PAE, which is out of business last I heard. If I was you, I would simply run a jumper wire from the + terminal of the battery, and touch the stator connector, and listen for a click. Then go from there.
I will get it back up on stands this morning and check it with jump wire, I did check the receipt and it was sold to me as a switch pitch, I will update this thread with results. Thanks Larry
I did some checking and cold everything works the way it should I could hear the click when my wife stepped on the brake, I took her out on the street and did a brake test. 1700 lo stall and 3000 hi stall and it shifts quick and hard, so we took it out to get breakfast and I notice she started shifting slower and more sponge like than hard, and when we got to the restaurant I check and hi stall wasn't working any more, and the shifting was not good it usually shifted into 3rd at about 32-35 MPH but when hot she refused to go into 3rd until she hit 40 and if she dropped below 40 she shift's back into 2nd. I'm not sure what's going on, any ideas :idea2:
Time for a line pressure test. My worn out trans is behaving the same as temperature increases. Shifts get sloppier and high stall is dropping due to less pressure pushing the stator piston. I'm due for a rebuild and front pump replacement. Devon
The transmission seems to be in bad shape, I just gave my son a ride and what I thought was carburetor surge he says is transmission surge and now its even hesitating before it shifts, Guess I'll take it in tomorrow for an estimate.
We dropped the pan on the transmission today it was full of metal shavings and clutch material, going to do a full performance rebuild. not sure what caused the damage I was told it looks like a thrust washer gave out, they will know more when they get it apart
If it's a PAE unit, the torque converter may very well be the source of the damage. Have it inspected before reusing it. http://www.cadillacpower.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9394 Devon
Devon you hit the nail on the head again, I decided to go with these guys, looks like they do some serious performance work, and they told me they would have to rebuild the torque converter before they would install the new transmission. http://www.autotransdesign.com/motorsports_ServiceCenter/default.asp
You might want to consider buying a TC from JimW. He's looked inside the PAE units and has stated there's nothing he can do with them...junk. Devon
I just retuned home from the transmission shop, they had all the parts on hand to rebuild the transmission, and the only things still usable where the transmission core and torque converter core, every thing else is now new. the cause of the failure, they told me it was poor workmanship, who ever did the assembly was a mindless hack.
