Trailer bearings- low loose/ how tight??

Discussion in 'The Choo-Choo shop' started by CJay, Jul 9, 2007.

  1. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    I repacked the wheel bearings in our horse trailer. The procedure I use when tightening up the castle nut on any vehicle is I tighten/ snug down the nut while spinning the drum. Just to make sure there's no binding. After the nut is snugged down, I back off the nut till the hole is visible, then install the cotter pin. But the wheel still feels "loose". I cant seem to get the bearing play out of it. its either too tight or too loose. The looseness varies between the 4 wheels. The castle nut on my car trailer has more castleations (is that a word?) so you dont have to back off quite as much as this trailer.

    Just wanted to take a poll and see what everyones input is on this. The last thing I want is a problem on the side if the highway with two horses in the trailer. What do you guys think??
     
  2. carbineone

    carbineone Well-Known Member

    I am not sure on the tightness of the nut but it sounds like your procedure is correct.What condition are the bearings and races in?Did you put in new races and bearings?Did you notice if they were tight before you took them apart to repack them?Just a few questions that might help in determining the problem if any.....
     
  3. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    The trailers bearings were really loose prior to the repair. Upon inspection I found that both outer races on one side were spinning in the drum. I replaced both drums, bearings and seals on that side. On the other side, both drums were in good shape, so all I did was repack the bearings.

    On a car, the bearing play is either non existant or very minor. Maybe some bearing play is considered normal for a trailer. I was going to place a call to Dexter axles and talk to one of their tech guys. I'll post what they say
     
  4. GoldBoattail455

    GoldBoattail455 462 -> TH400 -> Posi

    Jason, I can help. Im a trailer mechanic.:Brow:

    Some hubs are more tempermental than others. Heres how I do it. The hub is packed with fresh grease, two races pounded in and two bearings packed with grease in and a grease seal on the end to cap it off. I slide it on the axle and make sure it goes as far back as it can. Then the castle nut goes on. I go as far as I can finger tight, then grab some channel locks and tighten a little bit. I back it off one hole thing for the cotter pin and the hub shouldn't drag and shouldn't have any play in it.

    Dexter is where we get most of our axle stuff. You should replace the races and bearings at the same time. Did you? Generally when we get trailers in the need a complete overhaul because people forget trailers need maintenance too. :Dou: I've never had any bearing play when Im done with a trailer, its just like a car as far as im concerned.
     
  5. CJay

    CJay Supercar owner Staff Member

    Thanks for the input Rob:TU: I didnt know you worked at a trailer place. I just got off the phone with Ron at Dexter axles. Said he's been in the axle business for 42 years :eek2: . The 'official" procedure according to Ron is to torque the castle nut to 50 ft/lbs while spinning the drum. Then loosen the nut and hand tighten it. Install the cotter pin and your done. He said the accepted end play for the drum is 8 thousands. He also says that a loose bearing is better than a tight bearing. A loose bearing will "go all day" whereas a tight bearing will fail prematurely. So a slight amount of play is normal from what he said.

    I get so anal retentive about this stuff.
     
  6. Eric B

    Eric B John 3:16

    I am responsible for designing and releasing bearings and I agree with you. If you preload this type of tapered roller bearing it will fail quickly.
     
  7. Eric Schmelzer

    Eric Schmelzer Well-Known Member

    There is nothing wrong with being anal about something like this. It is something that needs to be done right. If not it could get somebody hurt or killed.
     

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