Touch up paint techniques...???

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by derek244, Sep 10, 2004.

  1. derek244

    derek244 Gold Level Contributor

    I would like to know what touch up paint methods you guys use. I drive my car, therefore I get chips. I have a can of touch-up paint from the guy who sold me the car (and painted it reeeeaaal nice). No matter how small the brush/Q-tip/toothpick/ etc. is I can see the touched up area plain as day. The car is clearcoated metallic. Can I wet sand it after touching it up? What grit paper? Believe me, I am not going to attempt anything without the advice of the Buick Gods! :grin:
     
  2. derek244

    derek244 Gold Level Contributor

    ttt....sorry I gotta get some advice!
     
  3. 1967 Big Buick

    1967 Big Buick One day at a time.

    touch up

    Here's the problem: When the reduced paint is sprayed through a gun it atomizes it and distributes the metalic randomly. Now when you try to dab some paint in a paint chip the metalic won't lay down the same way cause the paint is to thick. You can try adding some reducer to it,but it will take quite a few coats to cover it.( easy but time cunsuming process ). What i do, and it may seem extreme due to the amounts of chips, is put some tape down to protect the surrounding areas and spray it through the gun and wipe off the excess with some compund and then use clear fingernail polish to act as clearcoat. You don't have to tape perfectly just quickly tape it. It's the only way i find works the best without having the body shop do it for you. If the Paint gun isn't readily available try using one of those spray bomb containers that you buy at the auto parts and put your own paint in it. Don't forget to reduce the paint first. Hope this helps. They also have touch up brushes at the parts store designed for what your doing. There yellow in color.

    Good luck and have fun. :TU:
     
  4. The Chad

    The Chad Member

    I prefer to use an air brush for metallics, it's small uses very little paint and doesn't make much of a mess. It will take a little practice and playing with the air pressure to get the touch up to look good and match (air pressure makes a big difference on how the metallics lay and therefor the color).
     
  5. rayzer13

    rayzer13 Member

    My favorite touchup brush is a paper match if you tear it just right youll have just a few hairs and the paper retains enough paint. rember to shake the paint real good and if its in a pint or Qt. can use the lid and let it dry out a little bit. only put the paint in the chip try not to get it on the paint more than absolutly neesary if it gets to dry just put the lid back on and shake it agian it will probally take a few coats to fill the chip then wax the crap out of it.
     
  6. KELLY SONNABEND

    KELLY SONNABEND Well-Known Member

    air brush, or a paint gun if you turn the paint volumm almost off and the pattern as small as possible, and the air presure way up, the big trick i do is i will tape off the chip first and build it up with many light coats off primer, rattle can works fine , this sometimes takes several days, then i will wet sand and buff the the area just to get it level, then i spray just enough paint so it blends in, most of the time i am the only one that can see it, unless the light i just right.
     
  7. 2scoops

    2scoops Member

    touch up for a living!

    This method works well for most all colors! You must remember however that the more reflective the color the harder the touch-up will be to pull off!The trickiest color will be silver then gold and so on....Mix up one half your color in basecoat,typically one half color to one half reducer,then mix up a catalized clearcoat sans reducer,mix the two in a small waxless dixie cup or plastic container,one to one.Dab the stange brew into the chip or fill the scratch with a fine brush,walk away and let it flash for awhile then repeat until the fill is slightly higher than the surrounding area.Let dry,preferably over night,wet sand with your choice of paper.1000 then 1500 works well for me,then polish like you were wet sanding and polishing a new paint job.If given the proper dry time and applied correctly your results will be astonishing,you will have a hard time telling where the imperfection was!
     

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