Long time reader, infrequent poster here. Learned lots from reading and trying things out. I’ve been replacing some gaskets – tranny pan, valve covers, and now timing cover on 350. Have a few questions: #1 is should I turn the crank to verify timing marks line up? I think I have a photo of my dist. at TDC. I don’t think the car runs bad so I doubt it’s off but sometimes I wonder…just a tooth, how much difference does that make? Maybe I missed it but I don’t see in the book or remember reading on the site how to gauge the tightness of timing chain – it’s not taut but also doesn’t seem like it could jump but I have read about that here on the site. A second question I have is regarding the crank seal – my existing and new one are different. Not sure where we got this timing cover years ago but neither seal fit in from the rear, or inside the cover. The existing crank seal is pressed or really just rides in the opening from the front of timing cover and does not ride on the knurled portion of damper. The new seal has the flat metal flange and the only way I could see it fitting is upside down and pressed into timing cover from the front – so the seals valley and spring would be facing out towards the damper. The newer seal with flange does fit tighter on the damper which I like as I’m trying to chase down leaks generally. Engine/tran were re-done 15+ years ago and was told some seals (tranny) just dry out from lack of use? A third question I have is different sized crank bolts. I procured a crank bolt from TA only to find out it’s smaller than what I have currently. When we had the engine rebuilt years ago, I believe the builder might have noted the block was a 1977 but would rebuild just fine. I have service manuals for ’72 and ’77 and neither show the same timing gears although both show 350s with similar timing covers, etc. Water pump feels smooth turning by hand. Bolts were nasty and will replace with new. Oil pump probably losing it’s prime due to handling the timing cover – both ’72 and ’77 manuals say to pack gears full of Vaseline. Priming with drill is preferable to this? I hate my distributor hold down and whatever block I’m running, one of the ‘corners’ of the cap hits it – I think it’s the block and not the TA intake - and doesn’t allow enough turning to power time per Larry’s article, so I loped one corner off with a hacksaw….? Probably not kosher but it finally turns past the block now. Would be interested in a smaller/ dist that doesn’t do this, with maybe a different hold down if anyone can recommend those. Oh and source for crank pulley…think TA only has ‘em for BB? Plan to use minimal RTV when mounting cover and let it sit and dry before adding back coolant or maybe flushing with just water first. Probably will change oil in case any dirt or old sealer fell in anywhere. Will put the 160F thermostat back in as switched to a 195F but the heater core started spewing – not sure if related. Any help most appreciated and love the site. Thanks!
