Oh I thought you were getting upset at me. Grammar has never been my strong point I'm more of a Hands-On Builder type guy I was using them as to show excitement about the topic maybe I am using them incorrectly?
Or maybe Im just overtired and over -reactive, my apologies. 2am here and Im rummaging through old receipts when I should be sleeping.
I've seen them get oil there b4, not coolant, but it could be as simple as a new gasket with some rtv on both sides around the water ports and across the top and you will be good to go
There is nothing wrong with the Proform cover AS LONG AS YOU are aware that you should check the clearances inside the oil pump and set them up correctly. I would trust that the TA cover is more consistent in that area, that's all.
While you've got your cover off - take and look at the inner surface that would surround the water pump impeller...I had a front cover that ran hot but looked fine, but the coolant flow had eroded and enlarged that area so the impellers had nothing to move the coolant against. measure your cover against the new cover and you may find it's still a good idea to replace the cover entirely.
It all boils down to checking your part/s to make sure everything is good. Heck I had a TA oil pump cover that the filter bypass retainer popped outta the bore..... it wasn't staked in I wasn't pissed or anything at TA, I called and asked if I could just stake it back in they said "yeah" Stuff happens, fix it and move on
Ok well I bit the bullet and started pulling her down , Larrys trick on the balancer bolt worked a treat, Am I gonna be able to retorque it in Park? My wrench goes to 150 ftlbs Dissy is marked for TDC. While underneath I noticed evidence of a possible water pump drama in future.. Looks to be theres been a small weep of coolant from the relief hole underneath, What do you think? See pix. Also wondering wether to take the fuel pump off before removing the timing case My guess is its early morning over there as itd amost 7pm here, so I probs wont get any answers yet , and we wont fully know the picture till its off anyway.
this is a bitch to get off!...all the bolts are out...hammered a lump of 4x2 down between block and rad hose passage got it away 1/4" at top. dont wanna damage it but.
I would replace the pump. With the pulley bolted to the water pump shaft, if you can wiggle it, it means the bearing is going which wipes out the seal, and it leaks from the weep hole. Might as well replace it while you have it apart. Make sure you have ALL the bolts out. There is one in the middle that everyone misses. It is usually covered by dirt/grease.
make sure you have the short bolts out, the one is kind of hidden, as well as the 4 from the bottom side out of the front of the oil pan. there are 4 short bolt in the front of the pan. on the passenger side 1 short bolt between the crank and oil pump, its easy to over look this one. 1 medium bolt just above oil pump 1 medium bolt under water hose, with 2 long bolts in the corner of the water pump. on the drivers side. 2 long bolts in the water pump corner 1 medium bolt just above timing indicator 1 short bolt just to the right of the crank
If you got it 1/4in away at the top and it was still bolted at the bottom there is a good chance it's not flat anymore
Yeah thanks, it was the other two oil pan bolts...the other thread I was following led me to believe there was only two pan bolts not four. A good look and then looking at the new one and I worked out there was the two more rearward pan bolts to come out. It came out easy then! At first look it didnt seem very corroded nor did the block, but the more I cleaned the more I found, and the cast iron of the block I rubbed aound the water sealing surfaces with some 240 grit paper. as well as a good rub with a thinner soaked rag. I still dont think its too badly corroded. I cleaned up the threads and bolts and ran them all in checking depths. when I undid them they werent really very tight , I think a nip up of the bolts may have stopped the weep but who knows now. I presumed the worst and was pleasantly surprised its not as bad as I thought itd be. Very time consuming through its just past midnight now as I write this. Timing chain see pic is tight on the tight side and a bit slack on the slack side. I will replace the water pump, hope I can get one local as parts take forever to get here and shipping on top of our lousy dollar makes parts expensive. Pix to follow as theyre on my phone.
Well I hope its still flat, Ill borrow a straight edge tomoz and check, As well as try to order a water pump locally. Somehow put double pix up b4 and deleted this one
edit my post. I was wrong there are 4 loan bolts.......I'm so used to my postons pan that only uses the front 2
YES I just ordered water pump local for $76 Aust be here by the 10th. Looking behind tbe pump at the housing surface theres no appreciable corrosion. So Im tending to stay with the original timing cover if its straight. Main reason the oil pumps already set up and has great pressure. Corrosion in the cover and block is minimal so its A a smear of silicon and a new gasket..or... A smear of JB Weld and sand flat and zilicon and gasket And torque the bolts correctly
