Tim D's '62 Skylark Buildup

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Tim_D, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    I also needed a custom driveshaft for this conversion. Luckily, my profession is a driveline engineer...

    1-Pc Driveshaft.jpg
     
  2. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    The sheetmetal fab work continues. I've pieced in the rear floor inboard to the driveshaft tunnel, and created/installed the driveshaft tunnel itself. It was surprisingly easy since I have access to a brake at work.

    It consisted of making templates -

    [​IMG]

    Transferring the template to the sheetmetal -

    [​IMG]

    and installing the transferred part into the car.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    The most difficult part is next - making the transition piece between the driveshaft tunnel and the transmission tunnel. If anyone has any tips on how to do this (basically going from a round shape to a trapezoidal shape), I'm all ears!
     
  3. kid442

    kid442 Active Member

    Tim,
    Nice work!!!
    PM sent.
    Ken
     
  4. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    Very nice build. :TU:
     
  5. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    All right, majot milestone reached in the floor construction. The tunnel is now complete, with the exception of some minor welding and seam sealer.

    The driveshaft to transmission has transitioned nicely. It's basically 3 traingles connected by a series of close, straight bends to form the radii.

    IMG_0287.jpg

    Also, the transmission cover came out quite nice.

    IMG_0300.jpg

    It's all pretty big, but it fits tightly to the T5. The unfortunate part is it looks like I have a custom-made carpet in my future. Oh well...
     
  6. cpk 71

    cpk 71 im just a number

    Carpet is easy compared to the work u did !! Fantastic job!!!!
     
  7. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    A little more work done this weekend. Although I'd planned to finish the sheetmetal work, running out of welding wire Friday evening took that action out of the equation.

    Instead, I began mocking up the steering. The stock column is a somewhat unique daimeter (2.5"), so the aftermarket column required mods to the firewall and dash mounts. The firewall was easily solved with a swivel base scored from Ebay -

    IMG_0305.jpg

    While the upper mount required mods to the dash mount so I could use a standard 2" exhaust hanger.

    IMG_0304.jpg

    I also bought a few ignition upgrades, including a Summit CDI box and E-core coil, an HEI-style distributor cap, and a points eliminator kit. I got the wiring mostly situated.

    IMG_0307.jpg IMG_0306.jpg

    Thanks for the kind words, more to come -
     
  8. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Been busy with a few more things. I got the floor seam sealed and sprayed with epoxy primer -

    IMG_0325.jpg IMG_0330.jpg

    I modified a stock air cleaner base to fir a 5 1/4" carb neck (in this case, my Edelbrock carb) -

    IMG_0335.jpg IMG_0332.jpg

    And I got the lower dash painted in the stock-style 2-tone. I used a pearl white for the lower half.

    IMG_0336.jpg

    I really hope to have the car wired this week so I can assemble and drive it. I'm getting pretty antsy...
     
  9. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    A little more to report. I painted the top of the dash in black epoxy primer. This will match the current interior color scheme, and still allow for color change when I paint the car. The dash top will eventually be body color, whatever color I end up chosing!

    IMG_0341.jpg

    After that was done, I got out the sponge and bucket, wiped up all the dust, and cut/installed the dash heat shield.

    IMG_0342.jpg

    The wiring harness gets mounted this evening. Should take no more than a week to wire it up and install the interior, then I'll enjoy it this way for the summer.
     
  10. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Well, saving a few bucks on a budget wiring harness added a ton of frustration. Although I did save about $100:

    1. The wire color coding was not typical aftermarket GM colors,
    2. The wires were not printed with the circuit type, but rather slip-on sleeves at each end, and
    3. No typical extras, like connectors or terminals.

    In addition, Summit (CDI box) and Pertronix (points eliminator) were not very explicit in their description of the required power sources. Each said that a 12V source is required with the key on, but each failed to state that they needed 12V at both the RUN and CRANK positions! A ton of cussing later, a simple jumper wire from the IGN1 to the IGN2 terminal on the ignition switch solved this.

    To top it off, my headlight switch went bad, and I had to convert to a newer model, along with the different connector. One bonus to this is the fact that I the newer switch allows the parking lights to stay on when the headlights come on.

    After the wiring was in, I was able to finish assembling the dash. This turned out GREAT.

    IMG_0367.jpg

    And, I was able to fire the engine for the first time since October. I was able to eliminate all the old, unsightly wiring at the same time.

    I'll be driving it to the trim shop I the next week or so to get an estimate on the carpet, plus my door panels should be ready around mid-July. That will finish this year's work.
     
  11. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    I learned something interesting today while troubleshooting instrument panel lighting issues.

    When I reassembled the dash, I replaced the standard bulbs with LEDs. I wanted a brighter output on the instrument cluster than the dim bulbs. When everything was back together, the only functional IP lights were the RH turn signal indicator and high beam indicator.

    Naturally I thought I was having continuity issues with the printed circuit board, so I removed the cluster and took nail polish remover to all terminals until I showed consistent continuity between the connector input terminals and the respective lamps. After I reassenbled, none of the dash lights worked!

    I thought bad ground, so I made a jumper wire from the fuel gauge ground directly to the chassis. No good. On a whim, I replaced one of the LEDs with an old bulb, and viola! The lamp worked. After replacing everything back to bulbs, all lamp functions now operate.

    Not sure why this is, but apparently the LEDs require more current draw than the IP PCB can provide.
     
  12. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Most of the interior is now installed. Although '62 Skylark door panels are not reproduced, same year Tempest panels are - and the cars use the same doors. I bought a set of these and put them in, and they look great -

    IMG_0372_1.jpg IMG_0377_1.jpg IMG_0378_1.jpg

    I need a radio, kick panels, and some windlace, then have some carpet made.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
  13. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    That is looking awesome.
     
  14. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Still working on the interior. I'm getting quotes for carpet, and I've been able to install door panels, armrests, etc. The white dash blends with the door panels well, and the radio doesn't look too bad - even though it's pointed slightly downward. Kick panels will be fabbed - I have a friend restoring a '63 Tempest, and I can use his kick panels for templates.

    IMG_0385.jpg

    Speaking of the radio, it's a nice Kenwood dual-RCA output unit I found it in an old box labeled "car stereo stuff" in my garage... Along with a vintage Rockford Fosgate Punch45HD amplifier, and an electronic active crossover! I just need speakers, and I should have a nice little system here. :grin:
     
  15. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Been slowly chipping away at a few more items.

    After some research, I found out the name of a radio installation kit supplier (Metra), who happens to be Crutchfield's supplier. Anyway, after paging through dozens of kits, I came across one that is listed for a Volvo 740/760/780, mid-80s, kit p/n 99-9200. this was the wedge I was looking for, and Crutchfield stocked it for ~$15. It's not awesome, but it will do.

    IMG_0405.jpg

    I also decided to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Konig makes a good retro-road-race looking wheel called the Rewind. I purchased a set in 15x7 with 4" backspace. It could really use 4.5" backspace to center the tire, but pickins' are slim with the Skylark's 4x4.5" bolt circle and low offset requirements.

    IMG_0414.jpg

    I'll post a photo of the car once they're mounted (currently out of town).
     
  16. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Wheels and Tires On!

    Got the wheels and tires on. I can't believe how much these changed the look of the car, it is precisely what I was looking for. The car really catches, and holds, your attention now.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. ss4825

    ss4825 Well-Known Member

    Re: Wheels and Tires On!

    Very very nice.
     
  18. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    I cleaned up the plumbing in the engine compartment a little. I bought an inexpensive fuel line for the Edelbrock and bent up a hard line from the pump to the in-line filter. I also bent hard lines for the vacuum advance and PCV line, and rerouted the PCV line to the rear outlet of the carb. In all, just some un-cluttering of the area... And it provided clearance for the throttle return spring to boot!

    IMG_0460.jpg IMG_0459.jpg IMG_0462.jpg
     
  19. priariecanary

    priariecanary Stacey

    Re: Wheels and Tires On!

    new wheels look Great! Any problems with clearance to the fenders?
     
  20. Tim_D

    Tim_D Active Member

    Re: Wheels and Tires On!

    Before I answer this question, keep in mind:

    1. The original springs are on the car. The car drops close to an inch with each passenger added.
    2. The rear control arm bushings are pretty much shot.

    I have front tire rub during full-lock turns, while going over large bumps (like entering or backing out of a driveway too fast). I compensate by avoiding these manuevers. This occurs with just me in the car.

    The rear tires have slightly hit the fenders lips a few times. Not enough to even leave any marks on the tires. This has only happened with at least 500+ lbs of passenger ballast aboard. With me (240lb) and a friend (225lb) in the car, no tire rub - but add a rear seat passenger, it will infrequently rub on the crappy MI roads which I drive!

    On the agenda for the winter are new springs and rear bushings. This should take car of the rear issues. Like I said above, 4.5" backspace would be ideal with a 7" wheel, but it's hard to find a wheel choice with these specs. Weld Rodlites or Draglites maybe?
     

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