Re: Proper thread sealer Brown. :laugh: Permatex 2. I'm sure what ever sealer you use will be fine for this.
I know, I am the too thorough type which this everlasting thread is good proof of :laugh: Cant help it, its just my nature, on the other hand things get right even if takes a while before they get done
This is quite a thread considering it's title... one additional issue you may face: on some stock manifolds (the 3 I have had for sure) the vacuum tree hole is the right diameter and thread, but is not deep enough to accommodate an aftermarket temp sending unit. What I have done is install the stock sending unit in the vacuum tree hole (might require a little longer wire) and the new sender in the stock location.
Thanks for sharing Frank, Now I’m prepared that this could be a problem as well as having a solution to get around it! Hopefully it won’t be long though before I can upload some picts of a complete three gauge installation ..
Picts it is! I had hopped to get the gauge installation completed during the weekend, but that stock oil sending unit turned out to have a bigger fitting than my biggest 1 open wrench :spank: (that I just purchased), I did however get the temp sending unit in place. Took the opportunity to replace some old and hard rubber vacuum hoses on the engine as well. Did some soldering on the temp wire connection to prevent corrosion, then I pulled the wire inside a vacuum hose to protect it as well as bring back a little of the stock look. Found a suitable hole in the firewall near the fuse terminal that I pulled the wire through, so far so good More later.
Per, plug it. Or do what a lot of people do and rip the whole lot of it out. After all these years the charcoal cannister would not be working anyway. Its getting closer and closer. Tony.
Appreciate the input Tony, I figured that the hose should be left unplugged to maintain the ventilation to the gas tank (to prevent vacuum inside the tank) but maybe the tank ventilates anyway? o No:
Alright, lets say I plug the carb hose going from the canister, do I need to make any other kind of tank vent like drilling a small hole in the tank lid for ex? My tank lid says fuel emission control cap and pressure vacuum (its a aftermarket key locking type), does that mean its a tight lid or something..?
Got the oil sending unit with the brass tee installed (stock sending unit on the side) and fixed the wiring as well. Only the electrical work inside the car remains now. I havent fired up the engine yet to see if anything is leaking though.p
The Triple Gauge installation is now completed. No leaks so far and the gauges seem to operate just fine. Oil pressure is around 5-6 bar (87 psi), dont know how normal that is? but its at the right end of the gauge scale anyway Water temp is more worrying since it lays steady on 100 *C (212*F), if it wasnt for the antifreeze I guess the engine would be boiling if the gauge is correct, it gets really hot inside the car when the heat is on so I guess the gauge may be correct. Gone order a new thermostat first thing Monday.
The boiling point goes up 3*F for every pound of pressure the radiator cap retains, so the boiling point of 100% water is approximately 257*F with a standard 15 pound cap. Sorry that is not metric. I don't even know how to convert pressure to metric.
Thanks Devon! I had plans for a while finding a small black triple gauge middle consol which would have concealed the wiring on the back of the gauges, I was unable to find such though but this solution feels pretty ok too
Interesting! So in other words 212 *F could be considered a normal working temperature for the engine? I have a 15 Lb radiator cap by the way
Just checked the 73 Buick Service manual which states that a standard thermostat working range is between 190-212*F Still feels like a good idea to replace the thermostat just to keep down my blood pressure :grin:
