http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/nptf-pipe-thread.html it's npt or nptf "National Pipe Thread (Fine)". 1/8" determines the ID (for the pipe if used for fluids generally) and the next number 27 in your case is threads per inch. however, when you get to the smaller size they are the same. see table above for the fine threads and see below for normal threads. http://www.gewinde-normen.de/en/npt-pipe-thread.html
I had hoped for them (NPT & NPTF) to be the same thing and as you say, on the smaller dimensions its pretty much is that, so the hunt for the correct brass reducers will go on..:bglasses: Thanks for the info and the links Nate! :beer
Here is a photo of the two sensor installation using a brass T fitting with the oil pressure line on top and the stock sensor on the bottom. They may get reversed based on the stock lead from the new harness. The brass T has threaded female ends on all three legs so a short threaded male / male piece is used to connect the T to the block. Hope this helps show the application on a stock 67 340.
Appreciate the uploaded pict to help me, the only problem I have left however is to find the correct brass reducers (1/2 NPT-1/8-27 NTPF and 1/4 NPT- 1/8-27 NTPF ) for the T-fittings. Closest I got so far is 1/2 NPT-1/8-27 NTP at JEGS, but they were not brass
what were they? If anything but plastic, I'd have no problem running steel or alumimnum. If alumimnum be sure to use teflon pipe dope with teflon tape with more dope. That keeps the alumimnum from galling. In brass more than likely you'd be stuck using hardware store, and 1/2" to 1/8" is a big jump. You'd need to go 1/2"x1/4" reducer then 1/4"x1/8" you may get lucky and find a 1/2" to 1/8" reducing bushing but they are pretty rare. And if your worried about leaks with that many fittings you could solder the adapters together like you would copper pipe. but when tightening them into the engine be sure to grab it by the part closest to the engine. nate
Havent really figured out what they are made of??, they are blue? (see the links below) http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100460/10002/-1 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100463/10002/-1 The problem in my case is that NPT is pretty rare here in Europe and hardware stores tooat least in Sweden. I have been thinking about using Teflon thread tape which I assume is the same as youre referring to? The kind of thin tape to seal up pipe threads. Wonder if it can take the heat from the engine though o No: ?
80% of the use for teflon tape is a lubricant when you screw the parts together. The threads actually deform slightly when screwing them together. you'd put a few wraps of the tape around and let it go. don't let the teflon tape get over the end as to get into the flow. teflon tape is pretty thin not sticky and usally white. the other stuff is called pipe dope it works the same as the tape however some of the better dope has teflon and work to aid in sealing and lubrication. the jegs one looks alumimnum. It's up to you if you'd want to order that. but be sure to use the tape on it and don't over tighten.
Hmwould feel more comfortable if they were brass, so I think I keep on hunting for that. To use Teflon tape when putting these pieces together sounds like a good idea and I have a roll of that laying in my toolbox, Im pretty sure were talking about the same thing there. Regarding the dope, I remember the plumbers in my childhood using something that looked like hair for sealing pipes; they called it angel hair since it was really blond :grin: , wonder if that could be it?
Per, I can't believe you are still struggling with this:grin: Were you not able to find what you need here? http://www.fittings4less.com/?ref=km6&gclid=CMvMvdG1jooCFR5aQAodeycwgA Or would they not ship to Sweden?
Hi Larry, I have explored their site several of times but not managed to find the kind of brass reducers I’m after. Best would probably be to just contact them and ask. There is however a person on this forum who has offered me help by go asking in a larger hardware store in his neighbourhood :TU: , fingers are crossed. If that don’t work out I will get in contact with Fittings4less and ask them. Could be I need to have two reducers on the ½ T-fitting as Nate has indicated. Another option would be to get in contact with the gauge manufacturer asking them if they possibly have larger sending units for my gauges…….
Per, As far as the oil pressure is concerned, if you want to use a setup like 67 Sportwagon pictured, go to the fittings site I linked. Browse the catalog, go to Brass fittings, then pipe, then branch tee, then male branch tee, 28-282 is the fitting you need. Alternately, you could use a street tee, part# 28-246. Then go back one step, and click hex bushing. 28-102L is the bushing you need, 1/4M X 1/8F http://www.v8buick.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109815&d=1204616953 As far as the temperature sender is concerned, IMO, a tee is not feasible. I would remove the thermo vacuum switch in the manifold and use that for my temperature sender. You will still have the factory idiot light and the gauge. The thermo vacuum switch is useless and unnecessary for anything but a concourse restoration. Trying to tee the temperature sender may sacrifice accuracy. Just my .02
Larry, Appreciate your interest in my problem! I do have the brass T-fittings, 1/4 NPT for the oil and 1/2 NPT for the coolant as you can see in the pict below. Problem is that my gauges (oil & temp) only came with 1/8-27 NPTF sending units which according to the vender is the typical size of a temp sending unit for Volvo from the 60s (we havent always been metric over here you know :grin: ) which is probably why they were on the shelf first place. Think I have finally located what Im after at Fittings4less under Hex bussings which I didnt understand was the same as reducers, art number 28-102 and 28-105 should be what I need! However, my hero on this site (see post #70) just e-mailed me that he had found them too at his hardware store. Seems like Im finally getting this together! :TU: Regarding that thermo vacuum switch, Ive been thinking about if it makes any a sense keeping it, so I find your comment about it very interesting. I have I got it right that it via the temp controls the vacuum to the distributor? Or what is its task really?
Yes, Hex Bushing is what you need, same as a reducer. You can completely eliminate the TVS. Just run a line from the carburetor to the distributor, that's it. Ported or full vacuum to the vacuum advance.
Great, then I will skip the temp T-fitting and replace that temp controlled vacuum switch instead! Is it correct that the canister (in the corner of the engine bay) is connected to the fuel tank ventilation?
Quote:Great, then I will skip the temp T-fitting and replace that temp controlled vacuum switch instead! Is it correct that the canister (in the corner of the engine bay) is connected to the fuel tank ventilation? Hi Per,Guess what.after all this back to square one. Good Luck. Tony.:TU:
Proper thread sealer Fitting4less did not ship outside the US but American Buick buddies do! :TU: Finally I got the desired brass fittings and can get to work, one question arise though regarding what thread sealer to use? Have heard that Teflon tape can give grounding problems on electrical gauges, guess a thin layer like one lap might work….or maybe good old Permatex, Loctite is a better option? Any experience or thoughts on the subject…..?
Re: Proper thread sealer Per, Glad to hear you have gotten the fitting issue sorted out! As far as sealer, I just use a thin film of parmatex. Some people may not use anything at all, but I feel better using a little sealer. :TU:
Re: Proper thread sealer Thanks Dale! Thats just what Ive been thinking of doing too.. Do you remember if it was the yellow or blue Permatex you used?
