Wonder what kind of transbrake those that are running have run/are running. And what you think of it/them, the good, bad, ugly, and if you use again. Right now I'm running a brake from CK performance. Chris made up one to be forward shifting since my car is column shift. It uses a glide style external solenoid. Pretty happy for what it is, but I'm looking to fill a few gaps I have 2 issues with my cars setup, column shift off a brake with 4.30 gears isn't quite as repeatable on the 1-2 as has been in the past. 2nd is I need to rip the tree out of ground to be .010 or better and I just cant live there. Upper .020s is more repeatable for me, but leaves too much on the plate. So looking to go air shifter, and instead of spending 300 on shorter tires and hope my postons pan stay off the track I'm thinking a quicker brake makes more since then I can adjust my button to get back the light I'm targeting.......right now I really can't speed the button up any. As far as my ck brake the only few little gripes I have, my 1-2 shift seems to slide the rpms more than b4 or 2-3 by about 300 rpms most shifts, so I need to shift it about 6200 to be in by 6700/6800. When i put the gear in gear from reverse i have to stay and brake and pause s second.....if not the car starts to move, then slams to stop and starts to roll again...... Almost as if i can move the selector faster than trans can apply each gear on the way down. This is a modified iron valve body so it's not pro brake speed on release. But this hold very well, if I'm under 2000 rpm when applied and let off the cars brakes.......so only tranny brake holding not the line lock too.....I get very little brake rocking..........if up near 3000, there seems to be a little bit of movement b4 it truly settles. But brake holds to at least 4500.....haven't tried farther. Retains engine bracking in all gears. Required very little a special case prep. For the average user it work goods.
I had another forward brake from Jake's transmission in texas.......he no longer will make this unit without buying a hole trans off him. This one was also forward pattern and retained auto shifting. It used the detent to apply instead an more 1st & reverse. Would only hold about 3500 in my car, but behind a sbc it would hold 4200. He had 2 trans brake the center support and lugs off the case using this........but his brake button was on the shifter handle I think he was hitting it with leg or hand when shifting causing it to apply going down track. We put an altronic electric shifter based on rpm in his car and no more trans issues.
I have a modified stock valve body in Scat. It holds no problem to 5000rpm, I can redlight on a .5 protree, so I use a long button or delay box where permitted. On Thumper I run a billet pro valve body. The stock modified valve body was too slow on a .4 protree when I ran the 9.90 index, .45's, wasn't competitive against chassis cars. Went with the billet brake, dumps fast, but still best I could do was .43's, go a couple rounds then on the trailer, chassis cars will hit .40's or teens. I stop both cars back to 10.5 or 10.9 index. Very competitive, have won events and last year won the 10.90 points series. The fast brake helps,but down side is to go reverse have to put it in R and hold button down.
I dont like that idea of reverse either, but I think most shifter have a backup light switch.......so I would imagine a quick tee into that switch to the brake will apply the brake and give reverse without having to push the button.
If I follow the tree down I will go red everytime, but if I react to the bottom yellow only by staring deep into it, between me, car, brake, switch I seem to really consistantly in the upper 20s lows 30s. I have no plans to run pro tree ir anything that way, just get things moving faster without drastically changing the car or me. Just slow the button down if with s pro tree brake.
20's aren't bad, if the car is good you'll win more than lose, but to win events teens are necessary. There are faster brake button available too.
I have mine shimmied down to basically a micro switch........ And I do hold my own.........but I can to live in the low .010 not mid .020. Every time I get to finial 8 cars or under I'm giving up too much there. I'm getting tired of missing the big check by .00x at the strip.
I did speak to chris today st CK he said send him the setup back and he would see what he could do to get the dump speed up and see if we cant shore up the 1-2 shift a touch. Man I love those those guys. Hopefully I can get out and heading to NY and get it back to see if I can hit a test session. If I can save 600-700, and not need a new setup that would be awsome. Try calling tci or some big box brand and getting that service. Hats off to CK performance for stepping up to try to help
Hard to believe that its turning that way in no box racing but it is.........and as much as i like just being there and going a few rounds .......were after more.
I don’t run a brake,but I always run a forward body. It’s also good to have one with an aluminum rodded engine,so you can knock it in neutral from 3rd. Every bit helps. It sounds like you found what you need,but if it doesn’t work out,I can direct you to my transmission builder for any further insight or help.
T-400, Coan brake, 25 years old so not "new technology" in mine. Reverse valve body. Backs up in reverse no button pushed. Never been an issue in those 25 years. I can go red anytime........lol
Yeah, I've been tossing into neutral after traps for years using forward valve body.......I know...not supposed to for safety reasons..... My trans guy said not to as it overspeeds something in trans but I'm still running the Mark Deconti trans I won at a raffle at the GS Nats 25yrs ago......
Some years ago Turbo Action made me a reverse pattern trans brake valve body that does not require button to back up. Reason I use it is because in NMCA can not us a brake. So I couldn't have a button in the car.
If they used a standard valve body and converted it to a trans brake thats true, mine is like that too in Scat, if its a billet valve body to dump fast they recommend putting it in R and using the button.
So after talking the ck, they are going to try to rework the exhaust circuit and see if we can get some time down on it b4 I switch gears
May seem a little high end but we run ATI,Mark Mickie transmissions in the promods .These are billet pieces made by them.Maybe give Mark Mickie a call and see what he can do.Just about every fast radial,promods has a MICKIE valve body.I believe he purchased the grinder stuff when they went out,and redone some things.
Will keep that in mind if chris cant get get what Ihave up to the speed I need. Figure it's a 50/50 shot
Th400 with the Transgo shift kit and break. Rev man valve body and all switches wired to break the ground not the +. Cars way more responsive and consistent than I am. If I could ever get into the seat and stay there for more than a few weeks / months without breaking something I'd get better again. If your interested I have a B&M Pro Stick shifter and a Shiftnoid electric shifter set up for Rev valve body Im not using anymore. Went with Cheetah
