Question to Ben, both the ATSG manual and Chassis service manual say to put the tapered snap ring gap at 9:00 o'clock in the area with no lugs: ATSG:
My case does not use a fretting ring, which the 72 manual would, but the ATSG manual does not change the gap location based on a fretting ring. From your experience, is it better to put the gap opposite of 2 manuals? Thanks!
Put the gap anywhere in the case lug area........putting it out where there is no support isn't a good thing. Any where in the highlighted area
I gotta say that this was a great thread to read through! I'm getting ready to rebuild the transmission on my '70 Riv and found a lot of the information provided here has helped my confidence level in wanting to tackle this. To my knowledge the trans is still original and untouched. I had it installed behind my performance built 455 for a very short while and it performed very well, just think it needs a 2000 - 2500 ish stall perhaps. I have the factory manual and the manual from Cliff Ruggles as well as this thread to work with. Does anyone have suggestions on what rebuild kits would be better than others or have better parts included? Appreciate it!
For what it's worth I did buy the kit I linked to in the first page or two. Not saying you have to do the same. Be aware you will need to buy other things as well if you are upgrading the trans. Like a 34 element sprag and possibly a drum if your trans doesn't have the right one to begin with. Lots of other bits and pieces will come up as you go through the build. You need a caliper and a dial indicator to be able to measure thicknesses and play in assemblies. To push out bushings I used a screwdriver/punch and a hammer. To install bushings I use appropriately sized sockets and a hammer. When I didn't have a right size socket, I improvised with threaded pipe parts. Having done this, it is intimidating before you start. But it is very doable. Like you I had the manual, Ruggles book and of course Ben helped me a ton.
Not saying this is the best kit.......but I have used it several times with no issues so far. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TH400-rebu...nd-steels-not-pictured-1968-1995/273953670259
From what I have seen the 70 is a great year for the TH400, I have one from a 70 Cad (375hp 472) which I converted to switch pitch and have long abused it. The 34 element can not hurt, I wonder if you need much more than that? Here if a trans looks really good inside, I just replace the Torrington set, the clutches, and use a $30 rubber seal kit, set for a couple more decades. I have had more failures from rebuilt converters and other parts than from originals, and I see no reason to pay for steels if the originals are good. Anyway keep the ripply steels that affects shifting, and are never included in kits. good luck, Bruce Roe
Appreciate the replies, this is a good start for me. With all this new found time on my hands I keep finding things to do other than what I want to be doing.... like this trans. I'm gonna try to tear it down this weekend and see where that gets me. Assess all the parts before I purchase anything and try to make a one and done list. Thanks all!
Just clear you lots of table space and keep everything in order. Tip I still use once pump is out I take screw drive or something...I set on top of the clutch drum and scratch a line on the case, same for the next clutch drum down........its an easy way to verify when going back together everything is fully seated through the clutches.
One last tip for rebuild. You'll need a hole in your table that the shaft will fit through. That way you can stand up the trans (after the tail section is removed) with the bell housing up. Makes for easy dissassembly/reassembly.
A plastic garbage can or 5 gallon pale works to stand the trans up in. You'll need to drill a hole in your table for the shaft to go through on the drum assembly while working on it.
The unfortunate part of this is I'm not sure I have the ability to use a table while doing this. I'm working with limited space without the availability of a table. Back in my bachelor days I would have used the dining room table inside the house but that's not happening anymore. I think I can fabricate some kind of stand and just work from there. Thanks for all your input.
I have seen guys use a 5 gallon pale for this.. just drill a hole in the bottom the size of the tailshaft. JW
So a post from me on my trans rebuild. Today I got the trans put back in the car. So pumped. I know this stuff is old hat for most but the first time for me. So glad I invested in a cheap trans jack from Harbor Freight. Can't imagine having to manhandle it back in without one.
Me too, I removed and installed mine with the GV hanging off the back. I bought this one, handles 800 lbs.
