TH350 or converter??

Discussion in 'The "Juice Box"' started by deluxe68, Apr 1, 2014.

  1. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    What fuel pump, lines, and pick up do you have. The modulator will have the most effect on minimum throttle and part throttle shift points.
     
  2. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    TA-1534C pump, all new 3/8 SS lines, stock pick up and I run fuel filter at the rear and before the carb.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"


    It sure sounds like a fuel problem to me. The transmission may slip causing the car to stop pulling, but it doesn't cause the car to lay over. I would try bypassing the filter near the tank. It may be causing enough of a restriction to cause a problem. I have a fuel filter right before my pump in the frame rail, but I am running 1/2" line and pick up. My pump is particularly sensitive to any particles in the fuel, which is why I run one, but ordinarily, it is better to not have a filter on the suction side of a mechanical pump.
     
  4. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    I do agree Larry that there may be a fuel issue going on after third gear.
    Or did I just out run the gearing I have? Could that not feel sort of like that?

    Do you think this is a fuel issue with the trans hanging in first gear when in drive?
    I will take that rear filter of tomorrow.

    Tony
     
  5. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Hard to say Tony without me driving the car. You have enough cam that the engine should pull all the way past where you probably have it shifting. If it won't shift out of 1st gear at WOT, that's one thing, but if it is running out of fuel before you can generate enough RPM for it to shift wide open, that's another. How high is the RPM when you get out of it in 1st gear?
     
  6. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    You are more then welcome to test this out anytime your ready :3gears:

    Not 100% sure at this time what the RPM in first was when I let off, I would say a least 5000
    I do know that I can hit the 5500 limiter in second gear if I am manually shifting. Never tried that in first gear though,
    was going more on sound than RPM

    and YES the car does not shift out of first gear at WOT when left in drive.

    Tony
     
  7. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    I'd come right over if you were local:grin:. You really do need to look at the RPM. Your engine should pull right to 6000 if you let it. I would try modifying the governor some more. Try one heavier weight.

    You may have more than one problem, governor and fuel system.
     
  8. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    Yea I know you would, thanks.

    I'll double check the RPM shift points for real and note them first before I change the weights.

    I'll change the box to 6000 and try it. I had asked in one of my past threads about the RPM limit on a BBB
    but there was no responce so I pick 5500 to be on the safe side.
     
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"


    5500 is a safe RPM. Put the limiter at 6000, but get out of it if it won't shift. Play with the governor till it does.
     
  10. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    I will make the changes and post back. But I had another thought,

    It's not a vacuum issue correct? I just checked it fully warmed up and I have 11hg
    from the intake port (trans connection) and at the full vacuum port on the carb.
    Maybe not enough vacuum at WOT in drive?


    Tony
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

    Vacuum at WOT will be very close to, if not zero. Vacuum has nothing to do with WOT shift points. That is a governor issue.
     
  12. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    Picked up a couple of extra governors today from the builder.
    The one on the right is from a vette and the one on the left is from a 6 cylinder.

    He wants me to put the one from the vette in first to see where it's shifting at.
    It has very light inner weight and heavier springs, we shall see how it goes.
    The other one has heavy weight and light springs. ( not sure this one is the right direction )
    I will do that but I'm going to take the one that's in it now and go up 1 weight # like Larry already has suggested.
    Hopefully I won't need to do many changes.

    Tony



    image.jpg
     
  13. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"


    Just change ONE weight at a time. If you make too many changes at once, you will get frustrated. It is a pain to keep pulling the governor and then testing, but that is the best way. I wouldn't even bother with the other governors, they probably won't be anywhere where you need to be. They will probably require more changes than the governor you have now.
     
  14. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    Worked on the governor today, on the third try got it real close but not perfect.

    It now will shift at 5300 RPM 1-2 gear and 5800 2-3 gear when left in drive.
    Since I'm already using the two lightest weights in the kit, and since if I go one more change in the spring
    it will go right to the 6000 RPM limiter without shifting (have to let off). That would be the second to third gear.
    Thinking to leave it alone for now until I can practice few more times.

    I can manually shift just right below the 6 grand mark with no problem 1-2-3 gears.

    Hopefully if I can figure out how to get some better traction, my 1-2 automatic shifting will end up
    shifting in the 5800 RPM range also. Not sure if it would happen, is it possible?
    You were right Larry, it has no problem going right to six grand. I sure was surprised today, cheers :beer


    Tony
     
  15. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    I did not want to hijack Marks thread, so here my questions.

    Are stock hard parts OK with an upgraded sprag & drum?
    How about an upgraded kit (below link) still need the sprag & drum or I'd the kit good enough?

    One of the winter upgrades is going to be a tranny overhaul for the soon to be new TSP converter.
    In looking online for kits, I see them from 100 - 600 dollars. I know the old saying you get what you pay for.

    I was thinking of the 500hp/550tq kit, or would this be overkill for my setup?

    http://www.monstertransmission.com/TH350_c_4324.html


    Tony
     
  16. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    You will be fine with ALL stock hard parts actually, the upgraded sprag/drum isn't really overkill but good peace of mind for sure. I broke a few sprags with my th350 behind a 450hp 455 but mainly due to running it cold on slicks
     
  17. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    Well between Marks thread and your answer here, it sounds like you have had good luck with the TH350
    I'm all up for not wasting money on parts that are not needed. I do have an upgraded sprag/drum in it now.
    We will find out if it is still good to reuse, if not I will just get another one for peace of mind.
    I have a pan full of .25 long crescent shaped metal shavings which has lead me to my inquiries in the first lace.

    Tony
     
  18. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    just make sure whoever builds it uses an actual performance valvebody or transgo shiftkit some builders will try and do their mods to stock valvebodies by shimming springs and other bandaids which more often than not leads to problems or leaking due to excessive line psi.
     
  19. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    OK I'll double check before hand.

    Does that mean you use either a performance valvebody or shift kit? Not both of them correct?

    Tony
     
  20. deluxe68

    deluxe68 Well-Known Member

    After the install on the performance built TH350 and TSP converter it seems that my speedometer
    does not work anymore after two short drives:mad: It was working fine for those two short drives but just stopped working.

    What would be the next thing to check? The cable is still attached at both ends.
    The drive and driven gears were replaced with 17 & 44 tooth ones. Is there a specific cable that I need to use?
    This is still the original cable from the ST300

    Tony
     

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