TA288-94 dyno pulls??? Anyone done it and can post a copy?

Anyone post up some dyno pulls with the TA288-94 cam??? Curious on what this cam will do. Stock 71 motor, just a re-ring and new bearings, stock intake and heads, Ignitionman small body HEI, stock manifolds.

Also, anyone know what kind of vacuum this cam will pull??? Looking to rebuild my QJ with a Ruggles kit and would also like to know which recipe to use from his book, #1 or #2.

The car(66 Skylark sport coupe) has a TH350 with the torque converter(unknown stall) that was put in by local trans shop when the car had the original 300 V8. Rearend is 71 Skylark 8.5 with 3.08 posi. I will most likely be running a 235/60-15 or a 245/60-15 tire.

Any guesses on 1/4 ET & speed???

 

Check out my post on this cam..
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=193645

 

What kind of vacuum do you pull at idle with the 288-94?

Btw, nice numbers on your setup...

Any times yet???

 

About 14-15" Vac. Brakes are perfect, Idle is very good.. Great overall cam that still makes good HP and low end tourqe! No times.. Yet!

 

This pull was taken from a past post from JW.........Ray



030 over TRW Forged pistons
Zero deck height, with engine re-fit (heads and block cut to match)
9.8-1 compression
288-94H cam (230/240@ .050)
Ported 69-74 small valve heads (250/180 cfm at .500) with CC'ed and reworked/polished chambers
Performer intake
800 cfm Q-jet
1-7/8 headers

 

Nice!!!

I'm assuming RPM, torque, hp are the columns...

 

I hate to be the bearer of ill tidings but you can lop about 100 numbers off both of those columns. Real world might even be worse because of the elevation out there. It seems to me when you hit that part of the country all of a sudden every where you go you are at 3000'.

STOCK low compression engines don't really respond to much bigger cams. You've got much lower compression, lower head flow, lower exhaust flow, lower stall converter, not much gear and to top it off you'll probably want to shift at 4600 RPM compared to the dyno run engine setup.

I always say if you're going to shift at lower RPM why bother putting a bigger cam in the engine? The cam is probably the biggest factor in where your torque/hp peaks are at.

Your idle won't be as good because of the lower compression although you should have no problem with power brakes. Larry probably can figure it out but your DCR is probably abysmal.

I wouldn't even recommend a 212 sized cam for that combo unless you had more plans for it down the road and then the first thing it would need would be some kind of higher stall converter. Shorter duration and closer lobe centers would be even better. Best thing to do is a smaller cam something like a TA 112 or the C110 and still get a converter.

The minimum thing I would do with that cam is make sure it is advanced at least 4 to crutch it up.

Spinning your tires on the street means nothing when you hit the strip. Lots of times what feels like a monster turns out to be a dud. What happens when you put some sticky tires on is what counts. That is when your torque will make the difference and traction will expose a lack of it in a hurry.

On a much higher note I'd say figure on low 14's@96 at the strip if traction is good. Put a converter in it and get good traction and a 13 isn't out of the question if the gods of the dragstrip are smiling and the elevation isn't too high.

Go ahead, prove me wrong.

 

Heres my combo
Full weight 72 Lark
73 block 30 over
ta stage 1 alum se heads just port matched
performer intake
Mighty demon 850
9.6 to compression ratio
1 7/8 long tube headers
th400
Mosier rearend with 3.55 gears running 28" tall slicks at track
TCI 3000 stall conv soon to be a trisheild perf conv
I have 12" vac with that cam that runs my brakes ok
My best et is 12.11 @ 111mph My normal 60' times are a horrible 1.77
Last time at the track I got the front tire off the ground with a little suspension tuning, I drank to that:beers2:
I figure my hp at 500 give or take some
Hope the info helps some
good luck Matt

 

Ok. Real old post, resurrected and updated.

Car was finally finished just before last year's Nats(2017). Frame off restomod. Mostly stock.

Drivetrain specs as follows:

71 455, stock bore
TA 1607 "10:1" pistons
Steel shim headgaskets
TA 288/94 cam with Stage1 valve springs
Stock 71 cyl heads(non Stage1)
Stock exhaust manifolds
2 1/2 duals with x-pipe and Dynomax SuperTurbos
TH350 with about a 2000 stall conv.
71 8.5 w/3.08 posi
QuadrajetPower.com 800 cfm QJet
Ignitionman Smallbody HEI distributor

Actual calculated compression ratio is 9.5:1

Made 3 passes today at the 2018 GSNats. My best time on BFG TAs was 13.579 @ 102.79 on 91 octane no ethanol
2.261 60'

Overall, pretty happy with how it runs. All 3 passes were within 1 mph of each other.

 

nice job, way back when I started racing almost 25 yrs ago now, it was with a stk 455 of course, 3.08 posi, stk converter. on street tires best I could get was 14.20s, added m&h tires got into the upper 13s. the first thing I did was add 4.10s and car dropped to upper 12s. a set of ported heads and hemi killer "am made from lunati and it was low 12s.

I'm sure you street drive, but gears will make some of the biggest bang for buck you can do. 4 10s I'm sure are too much but any mid 3s will help alot

done several stk 5.0 fox body cars that went from upper 14s to upper 13s with just a gear change

 

Great job!


As for the fox body and gear cganges... Did many of those in the late 80s and 90s. The tenths dropped like magic.

 

I'm running a similar cam that (for all practical purposes) is a C-115, on a small valve, low compression motor with headers, intake, Q-Jet and no porting. Trick is to dial the cam in to increase DCR on a low compression motor. It makes 375 at the wheels, 465 at the crank.. Doesn't sound like much, but find a way to put it ALL to the ground and it adds up to 12.7's @ 105 with 1.83 60fts on street radials from a fairly stock long block.

 

Here is my timeslip from my best run of the weekend.



Except for the 60' time because I was running street tires, does it seem like I'm making the power it should, or is there something else I should look at?

added...It felt strong all the way thru.

1966 Skylark, somewhere between 3600-3700#

 

Got to get that 60ft time lower. It's worth 3 fold in the 1/4. A new convertor should be 1st on your list. Contact JW. Well worth the $. 3.42 gear would help as well. Just let him know what you plan to do.
Ray

 

Car was built mainly as a cruiser, not to race but once in a while. Gear change isnt gonna happen. Mainly just asking if you all think the engine is making the power it should considering the parts I have in it.

Next time I take it to the track, I will definitely either have slicks or drag radials, but that is about all I would change UNLESS something isn't right with what I've got.

 

13.50s are normally like 96/98 mph, so its pulling hard on top end and making good power to over come the slow 60ft times.

I would say those 60ft times are a good .4 or more off of where they should be, if you get the short times down in 1.8s you will be sold in the 12.s

I dont hold calculations as rule of thumb, by they can be fun to play with so playing with this one show a normal 13.57 should close to 1.89 short time at 97.6 mph

a normal 103 mph in the 1320 comes back at 12.86ish with short time of 1.79, but you can see how just a .1 in the 60ft = about a gain of .75 in the 1320.

get some traction and collect your 12 second slip


http://www.wallaceracing.com/etcalc.php

 

What is your RPM at the end of the quarter mile? Just curious.
I understand that you don't want to change gears, I am comparing your trap speed to BigPig455 post.

Personally, I would just fine tune what you have if you want to keep as a cruiser

 

The trap speed - 102.74 in this case is a better measure of the power you're making, measuring how fast you're going when you cross the trap. ETs will tell you how quick you're getting there. A 102.75 trap sped with a (assuming its about 3800lbs race weight) 3800lb car suggests you're putting down around 325 hp give or take some. This is all rule of thumb and benchtop calculation - and not sure what that would be at the crank - my guess would be about 40-50hp higher than that from drivetrain power loss.

Like the guys said above ~103 trap speed at the big end should be good enough to get in the high 12s - you'll need to figure out how to get that power down though the wheels at the short end at the launch in the first 60'. More tire, higher stall converter, gears, etc.

 

I believe it was between 4000-4300 at the finish line. Was too busy driving.

I was trying to get my governor fine-tuned to shift at about 5000 rpm before going to BG. My trans builder was able to get it to upshift at about 4500, but we ran out of time to do more. I was letting the trans upshift from 1-2 at 4500, and I was manually shifting into 3rd at about 5000.

Gonna get some slicks or drag radials before next time.