TA Stage 1 Fuel Pump -vs- 500 HP Street BBB

Will a TA Stage 1 fuel pump feed a 500+ HP street BBB?

The Tri-Shield 482 engine is going in my Skylark convertible, which will never set foot on a drag strip (although I'll take advantage of many empty freeway on-ramps). I'm trying to keep it as stock looking as possible under the hood, so that means a stock-looking 800 cfm QJ, steel fuel line to the carb, fuel pump, etc.

Yes, I know Tri-Shield and RobbMc make excellent high performance mechanical pumps (I actually have a Tri-Shield unit), but they don't look stock. Heck, if I knew how to do it without changing the appearance of a stock-style fuel pump, I'd modify one internally to turn it into a flow-thru device and install an in-tank pump to take care of my fuel supply needs.

 

Dan,my car went 11.70 with a stock S-1 fuel pump.The car i a full size 70 GS,over 4100 pds with me in it.Bruno.

 

Fuel slosh is a bigger issue than the pump being capable, foam, fuel mats, baffling etc are where you wanna look into imo

 

after putting all the money in a motor why would you even risk it, I understand wanting to keep a stk look.

cut the arm off where it goes inside the motor, mount it up, run the fuel line like it come from there so it looks like it from the top.

dont cheap out here on s fuel pump,

if you go to an electric pump. do it right and set it up on a return system, your pump will thank you

 

I am curious, why build a 482 that will never see the track?
A stock 455 will spin the tires on any street?

 

Because he can lol. Why do any of us chase the HP train, because we always want MORE even if we don't need it or use it. If he ever changes his mind atleast he'll be ready to roll with the big dogs!

 

Ok I see

 

Yeah, I kind of figured it wasn't going to work out... Especially after I checked the TA Perf catalog for the description of the pump ("Supports up to 450HP").

Thanks for your responses, everyone.

 

Dan is there any way you can remove the arm (like Larry suggested) and "gut" the pump to run fuel through it for the looks of stock but have a good electric pump by the tank (also like Larry mentioned)? I've never tried taking one apart before maybe another member can chime in with some tips?

 

Pry the lip away from the aluminum part and have at it

 

1969RIVI,
That's one option I mentioned in my original post (See first quote). I'm guessing I could remove the arm and plug the holes occupied by the pivot and, just in case fuel gets past the pump diaphragm (or maybe I could just remove the diaphragm), I could cut out a thin steel block-off plate and install it between the pump flange and the pump-to-block gasket. In theory, I should be able to hook up stock-appearing steel lines to the now-dummy mechanical fuel pump and pump the fuel with an in-tank pump. Of course, it would be necessary for me to install a regulator and return line upstream from the dummy pump.

Good idea except... How would I reinstall the now-scarred sheet metal sump..., and make it look like it was never removed? Maybe a better idea would be to permanently cut the very bottom off of the deep sump of a Stage 1 pump???

 

My car had a stage 1 pump on it, but with the stock fuel lines. And my engine showed 376hp/456tq (? if memory serves me right) on a chassis dyno. I totally melted the top off of the #7 piston. I could see the top piston ring when I got the heads off and the combustion chamber was coated in aluminum. Ran very lean. I switched everything to 1/2", including the pickup in the tank with no return line.

 

Ahh right, sorry Dan forgot you mentioned that lol. Maybe drill a 1" hole in the bottom of the pump so you can get inside to route the line through it to come out the top so the line is continuous but "looks" like it goes in the bottom out the top separately. Only someone under the car would see the hole? Also like you said put a block off plate between the flange of the pump and the block.

 

If anyone is looking that hard ask them wth their deal is ha

 

Well, the person most likely to notice it is me (I'm my own worst critic.).

 

Larry,

I think I will go this route. What is the best pusher pump that would be a minimal restriction when not turned on--the Holley Red Pump?

Why the need for a relay? Why not just run tap into the "hot" wire leading from the kick-down switch and run it directly to the pump?

Thanks!

Best,

Ranger
Aiken, SC

 

the switch might not be able to handle the extra current through it directly.

if you want to do it your way tap in that way and run that hot wire to pin 85, ground pin 86, fused power from battery source to pin 87, power to pump from 30 this will let the relay control and hand the high current load

 

Thanks! This is a universal 4-pin relay, I assume?

Also, not sure of what goes to "ground pin 86"? Are you saying I should put a ground wire on that pin?

Thanks!

Best,

Ranger
Aiken, SC