Just bought this. Looks like the front main with Halo installed needs some clearance. Won't know for sure until we remove the stock engine from the race car to check it. Don't want to hammer on it but I will!!! Should I cut it out and reweld it? I would like to keep it as clean as possible.
Ron, Use some washers and see how much clearance you need.. then you have two options, without getting the hammer out. 1. Check with TA, they may have an extra thick oil pan gasket. 2. Take an oil pan gasket, cut it off where it crosses over to the timing cover in the front, and then take the block parts and the pickup gasket, to someone with a water-jet machine, and have them make you a spacer. They will scan the gaskets, and cut one out of aluminum stock that will do the job for you. Use elastomeric sealer (the right stuff by Permatex) to seal the front and rear of the pan. I just had Clark Copper head gaskets make me some Tomahawk gaskets, and they did that.. they scanned my current gasket, and gave me back both the aluminum template, as well as the new gaskets.. that really got my brain thinking in new ways, when it comes to spacing issues.. I knew scanning/water-jet cutting was available, but when you see it done, it makes a bigger impact. JW
Ron, We do make a thicker 455 oil pan gasket if you need one. Jim, Not sure what you had made, but to let everyone know we do have oil pan gaskets in stock for the Tomahawk block.
Well I need to get this 462 out of the race car cause it has the Halo on it. I might have hurt the mains a little during that last Super Street race Because I kept winning and forgot to check the oil. I had 7.5 in it and at the end had 6 in it and before it was loosing it at the finish with 6. I think it was burning oil since I worked the hell out of the cylinders to clean them up. Here is how deep the one in the car is in the front. I probably can't make it lower cause Todd don't want to cut his frame so modifying it in the front is what I have to do just over those front studs.
Head gaskets Mike.. Clark Copper head gasket is a local joint.. they did them for me in 4 days.. you had no stock.. I talked to Tim here about 10 days ago on it. Yes, I do have the new Tomahawk oil pan gasket.. better than piecing together the stock one, like I had to do the first time. JW
Had to cut it but that's the way it goes when you run a different set up than other people. I check my bearings and looks like I didn't burn them up!!!
Just bought the TA deep pan for my new build and it will clear the hailo girdle with room to spare. It looks similar to the one you pictured in the first post .
Jim R I had a 1.43 but that was years ago. Around 1.46's and runs 10.80's with weight in the trunk to try to make it run 10.90 Super Street. 3400 lbs.
Yea that would help a little but I have already cut it. Now waiting on Todd to bring the stud and the Halo back so I can finish the pan. He was going to see how much to make some more kits.
Back to the pan. A little more cutting on the drivers front to make a little more room for the Halo and then weld it up. I also ground down the front stud nuts for more clearance. I also had to open up one bolt hole where you see the white mark so pan bolt would go in. Looks like the pick up is not centered but is at the right depth so I guess I will heat the tube and bent it over. Mike, with the TA Halo on it, the pan won't clear on the sides since it's wider than my Halo. I thought that pan was suppose to fit over the Block girdle with your Halo on top of that. I haven't tryed it that way yet. The bolt holes on your Halo are all off a little so still trying to make it fit the studs right. That will be used on another motor.
Ron, the reason you're having trouble making it fit is that when done "correctly", the main caps should be cut and or ground "flat" on top so the halo contacts the main cap all the way across, therefore creating more clearance for the oil pan. Most will also use pins or hollow dowels to locate everything and prevent the caps from moving around..... which is the main reason for a halo. Personally I don't see much advantage (if any) having the halo when installed like that . Without mechanically "locking" it all together the main caps can still "walk". Others may disagree. but my opinion is based off of basic engineering and practical experience, (been there, done that with the halo years ago). Steve
Steve I agree with you on the pins and the machining of the caps but the front and back mains are part of the whole block. So if you connect all of them together it should help in keeping the mains from moving forward and backwards and if 1 in the middle trys to pull out it would still have to push really hard to break out totally. I seen a block with the block girdle on it and was still running 9's. When he took it apart the mains fell out. That saved from total distruction but the block still broke. Also I would think trying to keep this block as stable as possible would make it run more consistent passes as in filling the block around the cylinders. Fred told me I don't even need one for the power I have but I just want a little more security than stock.
Steve what do you think about this, An Olds guy here at work said why not machine the caps and add bolts in between the main bolts and bolt the Halo to the caps but don't use any dowels for the main caps to the block? I would think you still need to pin the caps to the block.
I think pinning the caps to the block is the best scenario, but I guess there would be a slight advantage of tying all the caps together with the halo. That may help to minimize the cap walk enough to the point that it does help. But then again adding bolt holes to the main caps may also weaken them to the point that some distortion could take place and that equals bearing failure. Guess it depends on the size, location and depth of the added holes. Not real sure on this as I'm not a professional engine builder. Maybe Jim W. could shed some light on this. Steve
Ok got it welded up and no leaks. Before I put it on there I wanted to ask you guys that has used it about where do you put GMS like a little under and over rear seal, under and over gaskets, dab in all or front holes?
Put 8 QTs in pan and the level was up in the shallow section of the pan. Not happy. But it's on and waiting for the sealer to dry.
I hope 7 QTs will work because I bought this pan hoping 9 Qts was going to be in the sump area away from the crank but we will see. Its glued down. I guess I will flip her over and do some pressure and leak tests.
