I have seen quite a bit of threads on 350 headers and have some questions and looking for advice. I bought the TA raw headers (wish I bought coated). Keep in mind it's not a trophy winner l, just a cruise night kind of car. Please also note it's a 4 speed 72 Skylark Custom Convertible (originally 3 on the tree). Upgraded to 350 TA intake, Holley 650. I have seen folks have heat issues or hot start issues? After I paint them, Should I wrap these, add a heat shield to the starter or buy a different starter? I will have the engine out, should (and can I) install the headers on the engine before I install it? (Any issues fitting it back in? And lastly, it looks like TA has a great reputation. Any fitment issues to crossmember rubbing or hitting or alignment o should be careful about? Thanks all!
I've never had any heat issues with my TA headers, and I went back to the original big heavy DURABLE GM starter, no mini starters for me. I've always installed the engine, THEN installed my headers. Biggest ass-ache is the lower center bolt on the drivers side, BUT a lot of us just deal with it If you have one of those fancy "change the angle of the dangle thingys" I suppose you can get the engine to angle enough to get it in with headers on. Alignment with the crossmember is pretty damn good, I didn't have any issues there. The trans. cooler lines you'll have to tweek a wee bit by the rear of the right lower control arm, I used a prybar, and GENTLY pryed, they curved as if I used a tubing bender If you mock it up with headers on the engine on the stand, you'll see the collectors effectively lengthen the engine by quite a bit
I'd avoid header wrap. If still bare, you can still have them ceramic coated, lasts a lot longer than painting. I installed the headers from under the car, you have to jack the front end way up in the air for clearance, be careful to support it properly before going under. I haven't read of anyone sucessfully installing a 350 with headers already bolted on. And yes, you'll have to work hard at getting the lower center bolt in and tight. As I recall, a few choice swear words will help.
Ha..Good advice guys. I ordered the POR 15 high heat paint. I think when I have the motor out I'll lay the headers in the engine bay so so I don't have to try to slide them in underneath. Are the gaskets and bolts that come with the TA headers 12 point and good gaskets? Thanks
The 12 point bolts are nice. The gaskets that come with 'em are ok, but TA has better ones. Sliding the headers in from underneath is VERY easy, in fact installing the engine might be easier without the headers in the engine bay...... more wiggle room for the engine. Biggest hassle is the lower center bolt on the drivers side.
I find it easiest to set the headers in the bay first, then put the motor in. Partailly screw in the center bolt to the block and slide the headers over the center bolt and go from there. Various length 3/8 wrenches, a couple cold beers and soothing music help ease the tension!
I like the hex head bolts for headers so I can use my 90* 7/16" wrench like this one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-too...501279?hash=item466133e39f:g:en0AAOSwDmBY4WeK The one I have is closer to 90* than the one in the picture though.
Ok that's an option. I think TA might send 12 point bolts with the headers. If I use those, will a ratchet box wrench work better for the lower middle driver side bolt? Thanks
Nope, too fat of wrench head, I have best luck and can really tighten with a long 12 point box end wrench. Slow going, 1/8" turn at a time. Bolt head comes too close to header tube on my Hookers.
I haven't had a 350 in 2 years and I still have nightmares about the lower center bolt.. Like many here I had my special technique, ended up cutting an el-cheapo box end wrench in half to get that extra 1/8 inch swing.. grinding some of the box end away for clearance.. reaching my arm behind the header and swearing for 10 minutes while I tightened. Worked for me anyway.
Same deal with the TA's, only box wrench that fits is my 12 point Craftsman, that's about 6" My 12" Snap On 12 point ratcheting head is too fat
Had same problems with bolting Hooker headers to my 455, now I use ARP screws with 12-point 5/16" heads and are able to fit a ratchet wrench. Much easier! Can't use the cheapest ratchet wrenches, thou. Need a slim one with fine ratcheting teeth's. There is still not much room to swing the wrench even if it's just a tiny 5/16".
When I install headers on a 350,I find it easier to make a block of wood with a 1/2 moon cut out of it (3 pieces of 2x6 screwed together) and put it under the harmonic balancer with a jack. I remove the motor mount from the motor and reaching to the center bolt is much easier to get access to. Then I reinstall the mount to the motor. Just have to make certain you have the block under the balancer so it doesn't fall out while your hands are in there..
I have a set of Craftsman Ratchet box end set and I thought this was going to work. WRONG the box end is too big to fit with the ratchet inside it.. still have to do it the old fashion way, with a box end wrench that has a thin end which is the Craftsmen set and have to wrench it one 1/8 at a time. I also use the open end side to get there too, depends on how much my had hurts from sticking one on each side of the header. The long one works for getting it tight but use the small one to get there. This is where the stainless bolts come in they will not rust and get stuck, you just have to be smart and retighten after a few startups when first installed.
Thanks all. Should I put anti-seize on the header bolts or does the high heat burn it off and make it useless?
I wont hurt that's for sure. Whats even better, and I think it was mentioned, are the ARP stainless 12 point bolts with the 5/16 head.
Once a year, I loosen each exhaust manifold bolt & retorque. Each bolt was originally installed with anti-seize on the thread. Bolts never seize.
