T/A shorty headers.

Discussion in 'Pro-Touring' started by redsixty9, Mar 8, 2015.

  1. redsixty9

    redsixty9 Platinum Level Contributor

    They were originally made for 67-70 Riviera's. You are correct but they also are listed to fit 68-77 Skylarks,Specials,Century's,Regals,Sportwagons. 71-77 Lesabre,Centurian and Electra. 78-88 Regal. It does sound a little vague doesn't it? Maybe it would have been easier to list what they didn't fit.:Dou:
     
  2. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Bulldog reaches out from the grave, and backhands yet another Buick guy..

    Sorry to hear about the trouble, and see that mess, but it's the heads, not the headers. Put on several sets of STG 1 Shorties, in A bodies and big cars, they fit as well as any header does. Worst thing about them is bolt clearance and getting a good wrench swing on them, not physical interference with the chassis. I would guess from the pictures that it might have helped to loosen up the steering column plate on the inside of the firewall, and tweaked that out a bit.. there is some slop to play with there,

    Wish you would have mentioned something before getting the hammer out, I could have showed you how to build a neat little steering shaft to get around the issue, if moving the steering column wasn't enough.

    JW
     
    sean Buick 76 likes this.
  3. redsixty9

    redsixty9 Platinum Level Contributor

    I realize that they might be the problem. When I bought the motor I felt it was a gamble on the heads. Bulldogs heads wouldn't have been my choice if I was building a aluminum headed motor from scratch. I'll take you up on your little steering shaft trick. I've been investigating options also I still have a few more weeks until the front end goes on to deal with the problem. If I have to replace the tube or buy a new header that's just another lesson learned the hard way. Thanks
     
  4. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    You need to build yourself a custom 2 piece steering shaft, with a mid support and a couple u-joints..

    Actually a simple project, just need basic welding skills.

    All the parts you need are right here..

    http://www.rjracecars.com/Steering-Prodlist.html

    You can keep the factory rag joint, or discard it and use just the part that bolts to the box.

    Common practice when building a race car, and having to deal with that problem.

    RJ race cars is just one supplier, there are many..


    You should be able to just replace that section of tube in the headers.

    JW
     
  5. redsixty9

    redsixty9 Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks Jim, I know Rick and JJ from my drag racing days. A good friend used to run a RJ car we ran a Bickel. I may just end up redoing the tube. If they weren't chromed it would have been done already.
     
  6. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    I would take the opportunity to get rid of the chrome plating..

    I have done, or had done for me, virtually every coating out there for headers. Chrome is the worse, in two years or so you will be looking at rust.. Ceramic type coating last 3-4 years, in normal use, before the rust shows up.

    I get about the same lifespan, or a little longer, with Techline Satin black coating..

    http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

    And this coating, by far, is the best at thermal insulation.

    I used to grab the primary header pipes of my drag car, as soon as I drove it back to the pits, and got the hood off.. And the pipe was just warm to the touch.

    For my money, this is the best header coating out there. Look for a shop that applies powder coat or header coatings in your area. If you have a sandblaster and detail paint gun, you can apply it yourself.

    JW
     
  7. bobc455

    bobc455 Well-Known Member

    I had the same problem with my steering column & shorties in my '69. I just attributed it to different geometry since I had a 4-door (although I still don't think this is true). And I have the cast-iron heads, no bulldogs or stage II's or anything.

    TA hadn't heard of the problem when I asked them about it either.
     
  8. redsixty9

    redsixty9 Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks Jim. I too am not a fan of coatings. We too have tried just about every coating. The last set of shorties I had were on my cobra were chrome. They still looked descent for about ten years later. A little 0000 steel wool every once in a while worked good. The chrome was nicer than the T/A's though. I'm really kind of done being worried about little things and if my headers are a little rusty. This car is going to be driven and is purpose built to drive. In fact if things work out I might just drive it up to Cass Lake,Mn. for my annual walleye opener fishing trip for it's maiden voyage. If I do I'll be sure to swing by on the way home. Thanks again
     
  9. Jim Weise

    Jim Weise EFI/DIS 482

    Sounds good, good luck with it.

    JW
     
  10. stage1455

    stage1455 Well-Known Member

    Will the shorty headers fit on the '66 Skylarks at all? What is the difference from 64-67 vs 68-72 frames?

    Thanks,
    Tim Douglas
    Meridian, ID
     
  11. Geoemojr

    Geoemojr Guest

    72 skylark 455. Had to dimple my shorties, but nothing like the way he caved his in. I chalked mine up to the fact that some ass welded the motor mounts in wrong spot when he could of bought a correct set when going from a 350 to a 455.
     

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