Please chime in with your personal experience running Nitrous Oxide on a BBB with a 4 speed behind it. I have an itch to scratch on the Street Sleeper project "BLUBYOU" and it's a Nitrous Oxide shot...under the Qjet. I have searched around here and not finding much on this topic as it relates to 4 speed driven. I have researched many kits and other experiences and have gained some knowledge but need to hear from my brethren... Please share lessons learned, build "do's and donts", kit experiences, but back it up with results not baseless opinions, and if not personal hands on out of pocket experience it should be within "3 degrees of separation" of your personal experience. Let it fly....
I have a friend thats got a 70 S1 with auto and NOS and he has destroyed his engine But if you want to have fun
Yeah, there is all kinds of reasoning and common sense behind why there is little historical depth on this path, but..."But if you want to have fun":Brow: Is he selling his NOS?
There are people here who have used NO2 effectively Rick Crawford comes to mind first. The car now belongs to Amy Makley but Rick had it dialed in on the juice. Maybe he will chime in here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMPzynC5XWg Ricks ride.
No but now he's going to find out the value drop of a 70 Stage 1 with a NOM . I tried to buy it after his last rebuild and he decided to do the NOS again. This time the crank came out of the bottom of the block rods made several new openings. One more SS block for a coffee table base. I just dropped off a blue block for his next NOS build and he "might" do a girdle
aside from condemning a numbers car to such a fate, what is the flaw of the builds? i.e. rev too high, mis tuned fuel delivery, detonation...?
Nitrous adds horsepower meaning the lower the rpm the nitrous is applied the more torque is applied to the crank and rods. If the rpm is too low the engine will break. Example: A measly 100 shot of nitrous adds 100 ft lbs of torque at just over 5000 rpm. At half that rpm the additional torque goes to 200 ft lbs. Now imagine what happens with a 300 shot! It is a good idea to add an RPM switch into the system so the nitrous can't activate below 3500 rpm. If you add an RPM Window Switch you can set the rpm "on" point and also set the rpm "off" point so you can have the Nitrous off just before the engine hits the rev limiter. If you add an RPM Switch, it goes in place of the ground side of the power relay shown as terminal 85. A BBB needs a girdle, good rods and pistons for any significant power adder. For a manual transmission you need a switch on the clutch pedal. It needs to be wired normally open and mounted so when the pedal is fully up the switch is in contact. I like to use an overtravel button switch that switches just before the button is all the way out. Omron Z-15GQ-B7-K. In Seattle, Grainger part# 6X286 The electrical diagram: I have had the best results in the past using Nitrous Express equipment. I'm sure there are different opinions. Do not use a Progressive Nitrous controller. Modulating the solenoids shortens their life and if a gas solenoid fails leaving only the nitrous on it can destroy the engine. What size shot are you planning on using?
I agree the BBB is a station wagon engine so if your going to add a power multiplier make sure you girdle, fill and stud everything. Or buy a TA block
