Stock 72 350 HP, need a little more

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by tubecatgs, Apr 8, 2017.

  1. alec296

    alec296 i need another buick

    You just need to change front cam bearing. That's the first place oil pressure goes so that's the one that needs control, a different pressure relief spring or adjustable relief kit . In my opinion the crower (50258) is better with stock heads . Stock rating is 150-170. I would say with right tune you could see something in the 250-300 range .
     
  2. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    Don't bother with shorter pushrods. There are too many variables with changing the cam, different lifters, milling the heads, among other things. Your lifters probably have too much preload right now so -.050" isn't enough. But, the cam may have a smaller base circle so you might need longer pushrods. The lifter cup could be deeper which requires longer pushrods. Get adjustable pushrods from TA and save some trouble.

    X2 Go with the Crower 3 cam. Slightly smaller than the 212 but you really aren't picking up that much compression with the head mill so the slightly smaller Crower 3 will be torquier (?) then the 212 especially with the headers and not really high compression.

    https://www.crower.com/camshafts/buick-350-compu-pro-hydraulic-cam-276-hdp.html

    Don't forget to get a valve spring upgrade for the new cam. Maybe the Stage 1 springs from TA.

    If the pan is off just install the 5/8" pickup and just go with the white 60 psi oil pump relief spring. If the oil pump is off get a thrust plate on there and use a TA oil pump shim kit to correctly set the end clearance. If you don't use the thrust plate and shim kit and set them up correctly don't break open a factory oil pump. No oil passage mods needed for a mild buildup.

    Just buy a standard timing chain set and install it as-is. It will be close to installed correct that way since the Crower is supposed to have 4* advance built-in. That might not be the best situation but it will do. If you know what you are doing and can actually degree a cam in then you can buy a +/- 4* set or even worse a billet set. The billet set must be degreed in.
     
    alec296 likes this.
  3. Fox's Den

    Fox's Den Well-Known Member

    You will be happy with the 212 cam or the Crower level 3 you can check out the specs on that at Crower's web site. On the oil mod you make everything bigger from the pickup to the pump timing cover etc. TA can set up a new cover for you.

    It is too bad you are not at least getting the heads cleaned up with at least reseating of the valves and some slight port work. That will make those two cams wake up like you would not believe. You want that 50 extra HP you will find it by having the heads ported some. You don't have to buy new valves just port the heads some.

    Also get the timing set that you can change the cam timing the cam will need to be dialed in.

    Mike (above) is right on the oil mods on my first mild build I did not do any oil mods just that plate on the oil pump and I ran for a very long time. It took flooding the engine with a thermoquad to kill it. that was ten years later. ran the crap out of it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2017 at 6:08 AM
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD"

  5. UNDERDOG350

    UNDERDOG350 350 Buick purestock racer

    What mike said with 2 exceptions.
    I would always use the matching components to the cam. That is, use Crower lifters and springs with Crower cam so it all matches. If theres a failure they can't blame each other.
    I also would wait until you can measure what length push rods you need and order that length. I've never seen a 1 piece push rod come loose, but I have seen adjustable's come loose.
     

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