Pull the spark plugs then try to turn it over. There might be a coolant fountain coming out of one of the holes, so don't let anyone stare down one of the holes while you crank it over:laugh:
was it running when you parked it?? if it was i wouldent worry to much. go buy a quart of marval mystery oil and put it in each spark plug hole and let it soak for a day or two. drain the oil and make sure you have no water( brown slugde ) after letting it soak for a few days put a breaker bar on the crank and give it hell. i have also used diesal fuel before( broke kid). i have had good results with this. worth a shot!!! make sure when you let it sit you put the plugs back in it and when you go to break it loose pull the plugs back out.. Paul 66larkgs turbo 401 nailhead
Yes it was running when I parked it and it did turnover for about 5-10 seconds before it bound up. So even if I break this free and get it to turn over I still would need to take it apart to find out what caused this issue? Spun Bearing, coolant leak, etc?? Thanks Matt
Sorry to bump a thread but I am having a similar problem with my 72 Skylark. I went to start it yesterday and it turned over once and quit. Pushed it into the garage and onced over the usual suspects. Battery is good, connections at battery and starter good, banged on it. nothing. Replaced the starter with a new unit, still nothing. Replaced fuseable link, nothing. Headlights work, tried shifting (column shift) to neutral, nothing. Tried it several different times with the lever in all positions, nothing. Tried jiggling the key around in various positions and did not have luck with that either. The starter solenoid is not clicking, the starter is not humming, all of my gauges work, all of my lights work, the reverse lights work, just no starting coming from the starter. What gives?
Large post with 12v constant has power, yes. 12v. I do not have a soldier b on hand to hold the key forward to check the small post but since its not turning over I can assume the answer is no there is not power reaching it.
I wouldn't assume that for a moment. Testing is what you're supposed to do before you start buying stuff without having any idea what's up. If you have to, wire up a test light. Devon
Ok, so I will assume the starter is good since its new. If you put a test light to the purple wire and hit the key, the test light should light. I will assume that it doesnt since you dont hear the click from the solenoid pulling in. If the purple wire is dead, trace it back to the ignition switch on the column. You should have a 10 gauge wire coming in that will have power. That goes to the back of the alternator. When you hit the key, the power should energize the purple. So we should have power going in and power going out. Test, dont guess :Smarty:
Also, make sure your ignition switch is adjusted properly. With the key in the lock position, make sure the switch is in the same lock position.
false positive there - bad way to start a diagnosis. I'd yank it and test it outside of the vehicle thereby eliminating any and all of the wiring and switches
All you would really need to do is jump the soleniod- apply 12v to the S terminal. You can diagnose a bad starter by deduction without actually testing the starter itself. If the starter has 12v going to it and the purple wire is getting energized, the starter is no good right?
As long as there isnt a voltage drop in the battery and ground cables under load.Something to test first!!!
