Getting ready to start for the first time. I have one question. I have it at TDC on comp stroke. My timing mark is at 4 degree mark is this ok or should I set it to the zero mark. Thanks
set it to at least 4 degrees. Some folks set the initial a little more. But you do not want to run it retarded, and setting it at zero, would be.
http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/engine-break-in-prep-and-video.214906/ As soon as you start the engine, you want to bring it to 2000 RPM, and at that RPM, set the timing to at least 30*. Very easy if you know how to use a timing light.
To clarify, you are at TDC and your line on the balancer is at 4*? Did you use a dial indicator to determine TDC or a piston stop? Or are you asking for an appropriate timing to start your engine for the first time? Jim
To save yourself from the maddening sometimes days long situation some folks have found themselves in do this test first . Have someone Crank the motor while you advance the Distributor until the motor cranks over hard. If you get this effect then you know for sure you have the timing at TDC compression!
If you have verified physically, the distributor/rotor is opening points and firing the #1 cylinder at 4 degrees BTDC, then when the engine is running at 2000-2500 RPM, your total timing should be near the 30 degrees advanced that is optimal for the break in run. Trying to "chase" timing by cranking/starting/idling and so forth to "get the engine to run correctly" is not the best method, as you may well loose or "oil wash" the assembly lube from the cam lobe/lifter faces. It is not that hard to index the engine/distributor and ensure proper timing before first attempt to fire up the engine. But, understanding the mechanical operation is a must. Ask until until you know you have it figured out. The risk of damage by not knowing, is not something you want to experience. The links and info provided by others are most valuable.
If the piston is at real, live TDC but the damper/timing pointer indicates 4 degrees advanced, SOMETHING is wrong. 1. The crank is not really at TDC 2. The damper outer ring has slipped 3. The timing pointer is bent or somehow damaged 4. The keyway in the crankshaft or the damper hub is worn 5. Depending on engine family, there can be a compatibility issue between the damper and the timing indicator
It's great to make fun Sir isn't it? The fact is that many nubies drop the Distributor in one tooth off even though they'll tell you all day long it's in right on the phone ! When you get there to help them out you need to kick all the wires over by one terminal to even get the motor to kick like it even wants to start! Now does what I posted make sence to you Sir?
You hear people refer to the distributor being one tooth off a lot. The engine does not care what tooth the distributor is in at IF the timing is correct. Ignition timing is ignition timing. The distributor being one tooth off manifests itself in one of two ways. Either you run out of distributor rotation before you can adjust the timing to what you want, ie part of the distributor hits a hose or the intake, OR, you get the timing adjusted but the vacuum advance is pointing in the wrong direction, like right at the fan on a Buick engine. If you have to move the plug wires over one spot to remedy the situation, then it’s on the wrong tooth. That works and is easier for some than removing and reinstalling the distributor.
I did have the crank rotated a little to far. Reset everything and all is good. Started it up on Saturday night for break in and all went very well. Made it through break in with no noise or leaks. Runs really strong. Thanks to everyone for all the help along the way. Pretty nerve racking when this is the first time rebuilding an engine.
