I'm installing the TA-290-94H cam in my SBB 350 and will be running a 3:42 gear with 255/60R15 wheels. I had spoken with someone last year about a recommended stall speed for that set up and I think he said a 2200-2500, but now I'm not sure he didn't say 1800-2200. Which sounds right to you? TA recommends a small stall but I don't what a small stall equals. Also, I'm thinking of installing a shift kit for snappier shifts. Is a shift kit the same as replacing the valve body? I know TCI offers valve body replacements for what I'm looking for. I know there are shift improver kits but I figured it would be just as easy replacing the whole thing for about $100 more. Am I wrong on this and they are two different animals? Thanks for your help. Jeff
My opinion is when upgrading stall converters to go with at least 2600 stall, and a trans cooler. A smaller step than that is a waste of time for performance. For a Shift Improver kits I'd go with B&M, always worked fine for me.
Thanks. I've heard people complain that B&M kits are to radical and become annoying i.e. they chirp even upon light acceleration while cruising.
Not sure on all the details of what he does and what kit he uses but I enjoy my trans from PAE maybe ask Jim what he uses. [ paeenterprises.com ] I did let him do what he does best and the only things I chose was firm or soft shifts and the TC. Am glad I picked firm as going slow or crusing its all acts like normal. I can easily control how hard it going to shift with my right foot. I can back off right before a shift a tad, get a softer shift then back on it. Or just nail it and let it chirp gears which is just to much fun. Like having a stick almost on controling how hard the shift is easy. [Fun chirpin gears in a wagon.] Now the TC I picked wrong, I went with a 2200 12in as I wasn't sure so went just over stock and at first I wasn't sure, near went back to stock but once I got the hang of flash n stall and how it works, I now want a 2500 10in And a SBB 350 Burton Machine twin turbo kit
I don't know if that is an issue with the B&M, but a higher stall converter will "cover up" hard shifts and smooth them out (within reason), especially less than WOT shifts. The lower the stall, the more noticeable the shifts will be with any transmission, or shift kit. ElectraJim
Oh man, now I'm back where i started. Some say lower some say high. I was hoping for a majority rule. Keep them coming guys.
Well just plan to change the cam later, I "shouldn't" have a 2200 if ya go by cam but seat of my pants says more plz and Ill change the cam at some point. But the trans wore out first. And to be honest, first mod Id do to any car, bone stock or not would be a higher stall. Its just to much fun. Everyone should do it. The fun and wow factor you get is better then any cheap easy addon cept for NOS. Just do it.
Something you might consider is where you are doing most of your driving. Remember the higher the stall the more heat it produces. Anytime you are driving at an RPM lower than your stall or minimum stall speed you are producing heat. Another thing is with street tires you might have a little problem hooking up. The further you are into your torque range when you take off the more wheel spin you have. A little food for thought. Bob H.
Look at the power range of that cam, 2200-5200. You want a converter to get you 300-500 RPM above 2200 for best standing start performance. That means at least 2500 stall. Having said that, when it comes to torque converters, you get what you pay for. What you want for the street is a relatively tight converter that will stall where you need it to when you get on it. That costs unless you get lucky with your selection. There are a lot of factors that determine where a converter will stall in YOUR COMBINATION. If you get the wrong converter, it will feel like it is slipping all the time, and like Bob said, it will generate a lot of heat in the ATF. If it is too tight, it will be doggy from a dead stop, or low speed. The best way to go is to call a good converter company and tell them everything about your combination, and intended use of the car. Then let them suggest a converter or build one for you. Just picking one out of a catalog may not get you what you want.
TA Performance sells Torque converters. Why not call them and ask for a recommendation. I would think their TA TC25 converter would be the one they recommend for that cam. See what Mike says.
Bob & Larry, that's great info and advice, which i'll take into serious consideration. Most of my driving will be city driving and cruising with the occasional trip to the track. Bob, the specs on the cam show the power range to be 1500-5500 not 2200-5200. So based on your advice I would be looking at a 1800-2200 stall. Correct? I will check with TA, as well. Thanks.
My TA catalog has 2200-5200 in it. That has to be a mistake, the TA website has 1500-5500, although this may be for that cam in a 455. You are installing it in a 350, that power range may not apply. Call TA http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_290-94H
Bob, yes it is going in a 350. the website states 1500-5500, but I think, as well, that it may be a misprint. Thanks for informing me. I'll base it on the catalog info but will still ask.
Talked to TA and they said technically, I can use the stock converter if needed without any problems but if I want a little more punch off the line that a small 1800-2200 will be fine.
