Stall Converter Recommendations?

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by MrSony, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    Another thing is heat. Higher stall=more heat from slippage, so no matter which converter you decide on, make sure you overkill the cooling capacity on your trans cooler (double up on it or use an extra large one). It's what I'd do.
     
  2. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    From the sounds of it, it's almost better to end up going to low (which would still be more than the 1100 I have) than to high, since I want to drive this every. single. day. It's not a car that is driven on the weekends on nice bright sunny days. It's gonna get dirty, it's gonna get dinged. It's gonna get miles put on it. From May last year to September I put 5500 miles on it just driving around. I didn't have school going on or a job. I was just bored and like to drive. I just don't like the idea of using the 40+ year old converter i have behind a "beefy" Buick, especially since now I'm swapping out the peg leg 2.41s for LSD 3.42s. And that converter did foot brake stall at 1100-1300rpm according to my tach. It was kinda cool though. The car on flat ground would basically idle at 35mph.
     
  3. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    Gary this is from the summit racing site actually from the link I posted earlier

    "Description: These Street Master torque converters are designed for the driver who is looking for a competitive advantage. By raising the stall rpm, these converters will completely eliminate slow, sluggish starts. Recommended for stock to slightly modified engines for maximum performance, they'll allow the engine to idle smoothly when the car is in gear. All stall speeds are approximate ratings for fresh big block engines. Small blocks will vary 300 to 500 r.p.m. lower."
    In the end I will say this make sure it is for BOP transmissions because my first one was a chevy. Josh
     
  4. MrSony

    MrSony Well-Known Member

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-gm25-bpo this one is bop, comes with bolts as well.
     
  5. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    Right. I'm just saying to watch that regarding what brand you choose
     
  6. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    I can't really recommend a brand since you hear good and bad from everyone.

    Probably just preference in the end, but think of it like this: if a company was producing junk converters, how long do you suppose they'd stay in business? Especially since the market is so competitive?

    That's the logic, anyway. I'm sure there's a few bad apples that make it through on every mass produced product, and if someone gets their hands on one of those, the brand name will most often be blamed.

    Also, if someone gets one from a particular company and they like it, then all converters ever made and all types from that company are going to be the best. I haven't made any side-by-side comparisons in this department, so my influence should be limited and taken as such.

    I just want to offer my POV and advice from a logical standpoint.

    Get whatever you want, but I'd recommend either a 2000 or 2500 (or somewhere in-between). If it were me, I'd choose a 2000 for your application, and overkill the cooling and get a large trans cooler. It'll make your trans last longer.

    An actual stall in the range of 1800-2200 is what you want. Much higher than that and you'll have unwanted issues for a daily driver.

    But then, all this is subjective, isn't it? haha
     
  7. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    If the Crower level 3 does fine using a stock stall, how much better do you suppose it would be with anything over that? This is a mild cam. Treat it as such. Don't go too crazy with it.
     
  8. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    One last thought: your traction is going to be your limiting factor on how effective a higher stall will be. It's a waste to get anything higher than stock if all you do is smoke the tires without effort (unless, of course, this is your goal! lol).
     
    MrSony likes this.
  9. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    That's just human nature Gary. Doesn't just apply to torque converters.:)

    Have you ever heard anyone who didn't like their Coan, ATI, Ultimate Converters, Hughes, Edge, PTC, or any of the big names? There are lots of choices. If it isn't an exact match, you get a free re stall with most if not all of them. Converter technology has evolved quite a bit I think. For the most part, you get what you pay for. Like I said, not everyone needs a non stock converter.
     
    MrSony and Gary Farmer like this.
  10. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    If it were in the budget, I'd highly recommend one of Jim's converters, even for a stock engine. I hear really good things from that converter.

    I think the main thing here is drivability for a daily driver that doesn't have a lockup. If it were a locking converter, I'd say go as high as you could stand it. :)

    You'd have to improve the traction though. :p

    Maybe talk to Jim and have him put you together one with a lower stall?

    The options are out there, but we might as well support our local 'family' as best we can and when we can, right?
     
    MrSony likes this.

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