Stage 2 455-4 on a 73 Buick Electra—— thoughts?

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by J'Linn Johnson-Wright, Jun 13, 2020.

  1. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    I have a 1973 Buick Electra, I have a rebuilt/recasted t-6 455-4 in storage that I want to upgrade with the stage 2 performance package that ya performance has to offer... I am not looking for speed or to race the car( it’s a nearly 3 ton car lol). I do want more torque and I want the car to be loud and be able to show off at a car show. I think having a stage 2 455-4 in a Buick Electra is just something different and something you don’t see everyday.
     
  2. no1oldsfan

    no1oldsfan Well-Known Member

    Hell yes. Why not? Get that barge movin... :D

    I know when I get to my Sport Wagon it won't weigh that much less.
     
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  3. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    Electra isn’t the most ideal car to be doing all these upgrades to but I just want something different... I went to a car meet and Again maybe because the Electra isn’t considered a “classic” car I didn’t see another Electra at the meet with over 500 classic cars. So if I’m going to bring something different I may as well beef it up. So even though it will not run with the “big dogs” top end wise it’ll at least have some get up and go!
     
  4. no1oldsfan

    no1oldsfan Well-Known Member

    Hell yes. So on your side bro.
     
  5. no1oldsfan

    no1oldsfan Well-Known Member

  6. pbr400

    pbr400 68GS400

    I’ve often thought that a 76 225 with a yuge big block would be cool. If money were no object, I’d build about 525 ci of Tomahawk, shoot for 650 lb/ft of torque at 2900 rpm, and leave the 2:7ish rear gears. I’d put a very smooth idling cam and quiet exhaust on it, along with custom tires and wheels that look like whitewalls on stock wheels but are really 17 or 18 inch wheels with 10” of tread on the pavement. I guess it’d need bigger brakes, too. Stock sounding and looking on the outside, eyeball flattening when floored.
    Patrick
     
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  7. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

  8. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    I just watched a YouTube video on David vizards 525 and omg... thing has a 420 rpm idle that’s insane! And 719ft/lbs of torque with 788hp is wild...
     
  9. Electra Bob

    Electra Bob Well-Known Member

    Another reason I like my old boat!

    If you don't intend to take it to the track or street race it then just fake it :) If it looks mean and clean it'll turn heads.

    Cheers!
    Bob
     
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  10. rdirks

    rdirks Well-Known Member

    Don’t second guess yourself for a minute - go fast with class is our tag line!
     
  11. ghrp

    ghrp Well-Known Member

    Go for it !

    I am putting a 464 in my 75 Electra. It shall be ready in july. JE dished pistons on stock rods, TA 288 92h cam, EDL aluminium heads + performer intake, Doug's headers and true duals 2.5 exhaust system... this should be really interesting. Probably going to upgrade de gears as well, moving from 2:73 to 3:42.
     
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  12. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    OK, so you are not looking for more speed, or to race the car, but you want it to be loud, and be able to show off at a car show. Put a dual 3" exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers and a lumpy cam. Done! I just saved you thousands of dollars.:D You're welcome.

    Seriously though, making a car loud is relatively easy. For me, I like the "speak softly, but carry a big stick" approach. I like the car to be relatively quiet, but pack a punch. Loud exhaust gets old really fast if you drive the car a lot. There are lots of guys that stuff a big cam in an engine without any regard for engine requirements, or supporting modifications. Yeah, it sounds great idling at a stop light, but then when the light turns green, the Honda Civic next to you cleans your clock, before your engine even hits it's stride, embarrassing, but predictable.

    Nothing wrong with you wanting to put Stage2 heads on your Electra. If you do it right, it will surprise a lot of people. Head flow is a big part of making power in these engines. The better your heads are, the easier it is to meet your power goals with a smaller cam. Bigger cams move the power range up, so you lose some low end to make more power up top. A smaller cam is much more at home on the street, makes more vacuum for the power brakes, idles better, and makes more torque where you need it, down low, and mid range to move a 3 ton barge off a light. The static compression needs to be considered when choosing a cam. In addition, the aluminum Stage2 heads need at least a true 10:1 compression because of heat loss.

    All the information you need to build a killer big block is right here in the threads of V8buick. My advice to you, is the same advice I give to all new guys looking to do what you want to do. That advice is go slow. Read up on different engine builds, ask questions. There are more options today then ever before. You can build a 470 or 482 with custom pistons, and drop in rods, that will make it a zero deck motor, and give you 10- 10.5:1 static compression. You can then choose a cam that will build killer torque, yet run on pump gas to move that Electra, and surprise some people.
     
  13. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    It’s going to be a slow process for sure
    damn that’s coming soon! I can’t wait to see it! Please post videos to either here or YouTube!
    I on the other hand am at the v erg beginning of my project and I will be taking it very slow due to me not knowing anything about the 455-4 engine block. I want to learn how to install the stage 2 parts myself so I can know what it’s supposed to look like vs taking it to a mechanic and having them basically “plug and play” on my dime.
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Good. The Stage 2 heads will bolt right on. That is not a problem. The exhaust is different though. You will need to run headers. No exhaust manifold will bolt up. You can run full length headers, or shorty headers.

    The other problem is your static compression. The 1973 motors had about 8:1 compression. You'll need at least 10:1 to get the best out of those heads. That means rebuilding the short block. This will be an expensive project. Are you up for that?
     
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  15. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    I’ve had my electra since March of this year and the one thing I’ve learned if anything is PATIENCE IS KEY! I was rushing into getting the car fixed up and the mechanic I was taking it to was doing a good job....AT TAKING MY MONEY!!!! example the car needed a tune-up right? Ok I drop the car off for a tune up I come back 3 days later pick the car up ok cool. (Mind you I know nothing about this engine other than it’s a 76 Buick 455-4 motor) I get home and I’m showing my dad the engine bay and he stops me and is like what is that?!? (He was talking about the distributor cap and the reason for this is because it was a “points” distributor cap) Turns out the guy switched out the electronic ignition for the points ignition, not only thst the points ignition had a rusted out part on it however when I checked the receipt it said the part was new
    My dad whenever he had a 455-4 motor he would always switch from points to electronic because the points distributor is VERY VERY sensitive and you have to adjust if not replace every 3-4K miles and it DOES NOT do well when riding the car hard.
    My dad then asked why the hell he would go from electronic back to points and I’m just sitting there confused like wth is the difference so I’m looking it up and it turns out the reason they switched out points with electronic ignitions on all 455-4 motors after 1975 is because of reliability... at this point I’m like wtf... why would he do that?!? Damn sorry I kinda went on a rant... anyways the car has been back to that shop since last Monday and once I get it back I will no longer be doing business with this guy. The point is I rushed into trying to get the car fixed I just took it to the first person who “specializes” in classic cars. So since then I have been calling around looking for mechanics that do honest work on these cars... even if it means paying more.
     
  16. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    im glad you mentioned that I have a t-6 recasted 455-4 engine that’s sitting in storage that I’m going to use for the build what would I need to do for compression to change to that?
     
  17. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I have no idea what T-6 refers to.
     
  18. J'Linn Johnson-Wright

    J'Linn Johnson-Wright Well-Known Member

    Sorry I just googled how to test it. I believe when I was talking to TA performance about the parts they were filling me I’m on all the other parts I’d need with the purchase of the stage 2 heads the t6 recast is only relevant to TA performance because I believe the block is set up a little different than the traditional 455-4 (ex bolt holes are in different locations) I’m not 100% sure about this statement though however that is why I am making sure I take this VERY VERY slow and learn as much as I can when it comes to doing this stuff myself
     
  19. Thumper (aka greatscat)

    Thumper (aka greatscat) Well-Known Member

    I did this motor last year for him, hyd. roller, 10.7 compression, totally streetable, that was his first time at the track. Surprised the mopar boys. I have a dyno sheet if desired. Over 620hp with a table top torque curve. DO IT.
     
  20. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    I still don't know what that refers to. The Stage 2 exhaust bolt pattern and exhaust ports are completely different, but that has nothing to do with the engine you are going to be rebuilding since it has stock type heads on it at present. Have a look, Stage1 on top, Stage2 on the bottom,

    Stage1vsStage2.jpg

    Buick never made an exhaust manifold for Stage2 heads. That means you will be buying headers.
    I hope you realize that you can use the TA Stage1SE heads to get the performance you want. In that case, your exhaust manifolds will bolt right up.

    If you want to change compression, you will need to rebuild your short block. That means bringing it to a machine shop so they can clean and measure it to tell you what overbore you need. Then it would be a matter of buying replacement pistons, and/or rods and working with the machine shop to get them to build what you want.
     

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