Hi all, from time to time, I see posts selling stage 1 components-mostly the carb and distributor-rarely a BB trans. My question is whether there is any benefit if you don't have the whole set of steak knives. Meaning, will my non stage 455 benefit from a stage 1 distributor even though I have a stock cam, BA trans. Or will the stage carb, all by itself, making a big difference to performance on my SR engine with standard heads. You can plug in different components to my questions. Seems to me the Stage 1 components provide a benefit when grouped and part of the stage system-which is probably what most people re doing-hunting and gathering for a post production stage 1. Anyone know which Stage 1 components provide significant improvement on their own and which need to be coupled with one or more other components to get any value from them?
The Stage 1 package primarily consisted of larger intake valves in the cylinder head, and a larger camshaft. The carburetor, distributor etc were there to support the better flowing heads and larger camshaft essentially with a fuel curve to match the better components and a more performance oriented ignition curve. If you're wanting more performance, get aluminum heads or have iron heads upgraded with larger valves, and a camshaft from TA. The carburetor and distributor are items that are tuned to the rest of the combo.
I personally wouldnt pair the premium price for correct stage1 parts when you can have most other parts adjusted to perform just as well. Plus those parts now wont be out there for those that are wanting full mat hing numbers car for their orginal.
What he said^. The parts are expensive because they’re rare Stage only parts and their value is in making a Stage car more correct for show. The only thing hard to duplicate (or improve upon) for performance is the BB trans 3-1 kickdown. In that case just yank the shifter. Something I love about Buicks vs. others is that the GS is the combo of a bunch of well designed common parts (big car engine , carb, distributor and trans, etc) that respond well to what’s suggested in many threads here. Patrick
In this day and age, with the aluminum cylinder head options we have, it is not worth converting iron 455 heads to the bigger valves unless you intend to port them, and even so, that gets expensive unless you do it yourself. Better saving that money and putting it towards the purchase price of the aluminum heads. With the right compression and cam, it’s hard not to make at least 500HP.
A base 455 240 Q-jet or 077 distributor can be modified to perform as well or better than the Stage 1 parts. It's really about tailoring a whole package, generally around your base compression ratio. Even with small valve iron heads, you can put your car into the 12's without breaking a sweat.
Rhett, how do I check my actual compression. I have a stock 455, alleged to be a stage 1 warranty block from early 70s. car as 148K, so motor likely has 100k+. recently my mechanic checked compression and said it was good but did not calculate it, i.e. 10.2:1
No, your mechanic checked your cylinder pressures, commonly referred to as a compression check, but to actually figure out the compression ratio, everything needs to be measured. You need to be able to accurately fill out the boxes, It isn't as high as advertised,
right so correct me if I am wrong but to figure out compression ratio, you got to tear down the motor partially -in order to get actual measurements. any body able to give a guestimate what a stock early 70s 455 (within warranty period for a 1970 GS455 ) with 100k miles, with good cylinder compression, would have as actual compression today?
