I don't think thats the issue - I fed the sleeve in the bore on its own and it slid in easy as you'd want and would move, but only further in as you couldnt grab it to pull it out. When I finally got a bite on it it pulled out no problem. I think the interference was just enough to not drop out of the bore by it's own weight or gravity. I think the issue is feeding the whole valve assembly back in - something is hanging up somewhere, and the sleeve (at the bottom of the stack) will only feed in half way before it "bottoms out" Maybe because we lengthened the spring by 1/2 inch, maybe because the spring is cocking, maybe because the valve has to find a smaller diameter hole at the top of the bore to seat in. But I was seating the valve and washers with vasoline before I fed the spring and sleeve in, so my money is on the spring cocking in the bore gap. it'll help to be able to mock it up out of the car to see what's really happening, but I dont think Nekkid Hillbilly is going to ship the parts until after the holidays. So I sit and wait.
Compress the spring with your fingers & see what happens. I've NEVER had the spring cock in such a way that it compressed crocked. Take a picture of the spring. Maybe you put too much stretch on one end??? I usually take & grab the spring on each end with my fingers & pull evenly.
I get what you're driving at, but I stretched the spring pretty evenly and only to a 1/2 addl length - if I compress by hand it doesnt kick out to the side unless I give it uneven pressure. Maybe the valve is dropping out if the smaller bore up top?
It appears that the bottom of the spring at the beginning of the ruler is cocked??? Could be the picture??? But, I don't think that's the problem. Are you installing the valve up side down??? Should be able to install & have it fall out under it's own weight.
I think the valve is right side up - it will fall out under it's own weight and has the shoulder for the washer and spring cup(?) on the botom. The spring is straight too, the photo is lousy. It is interesting that the bottom of the spring rests on the outer edge of the sleeve and not inside it, and the boost valve just kinda lays in the sleeve with nothing holding it in...??? I'm following the illustration in the shop manual on page 5-44. On a better note, I was able to get the re-worked governor in without issue (although it's pretty tight agsainst the trans tunnel and shift rod!)
When you get the chance that'll be fine - I've got other stuff to keep me busy in the meantime. Thanks,
got a question,,,,,any spring is directionally wound,,,, if you ''feed'' the spring into the sleeve going with the direction that would make it tighter, thus smaller in dia. would that let it seat properly???? and possibly work right.....????
Doc - thats a great thought! Try to spiral the spring in with the sleeve and see if it doesnt bind. Hey - while I'm on here, let me just wish you and Tom and Walt and Ken and all my other buddies on here a very merry and peaceful holiday. May the new year find you all well and happy.
Yes,, a merry christmas to you and yours and all the guys you mentioned too.... May God/the Great Spirit bless and keep you .....:grin:
OK - i got back out there and messed with the transmission some more today....I came to the conclusion that the compressed length of the boost valve assembly was about 1/2 inch longer than the depth of the bore. I think I've got the regulator valve fully seated, but the spring compresses soilid and I cant get the sleeve in far enough to seat the snap ring. So now my question is: what could intrude into the upper bore that would not allow the valve to fully seat? I look up there and dont see anything obvious, although when I look at the shop manual there seem to be valves that face east/west that could have walked out into the bore if thats where they open up to..)(coast downshift valve? figure 5-191 on page 5-43) Short version - the bore is to shallow to fit the whole compressed valve assembly - what rides up against the leading edge of the valve in the upper bore? Slowly getting to the bottom of this!
Since this has become more about the tranny than the nailhead, I'm moving it over to the "Juice Box" (?) section. I'll still keep you posted on the results, assuming I ever get this thing back together!
No problem - we got snow too so this thing isnt coming off the lift anytime soon. But it looks like the only way I'm gonna be able to get this thing back together is mock up the valve assembly on that spare pump....
OK Tom, Doc, Bruce Roe, etc...gather round here a moment..I think I found the issue. All it took was alot of hanging out in the garage drinking beer and staring at the manual and the parts.Time well spent. When I took this thing apart, I never saw the order the valve came out in. The stack was under spring pressure and when I removed the snap ring, it all shot out into the catch pan. So I turned to the manual to put it back the proper order. Easy - the two pictures below show the results (stack shown loose to see the component order). But when I put the stack back in the bore, it became spring-bound and was an inch too long to seat the snap ring..so I figured something was intruding into the bore and getting in the way. But looking at the pump rebuld section of manual and the hydraulic schematics (shown below), I realized that it was only hydraulic ports that came up against the bore, not mechanical parts..Strike two. 2 more beers and it hit me. Can you spot it?
BTW - Went out after dinner and sure enough, I was right. Valve is in and the tranny is ready to button up......
Da Wildcat takes the win! Yep, the shop manual illustration of the expanded valve stack showed the valve upside down....they hydaulic schematic shows the actual valve orientation and location of the washer/spring retainer. The shot below shows how it looks in real life. Solved, and it only took me a month and a half. Looking forward to getting this thing back together. Not that I can actually drive it - there's salt everywhere! Thanks to everyone who offered their help.
Yeahbut,,,, you are an authority on that mod now....:Brow: and well able to instruct others on how to do it.....:Brow::TU:
