Hi - I have a 64 LeSabre convertible, 300 cu in 4 bbl. I have a ST 300 AT transmission. The carb set up only has a downshift switch and no switch the pitch solenoid. Is that right? The wire came off the transmission - clean off - can someone tell me where the white wire goes? I think it goes about 6" - 7" forward of the linkage on the driver side of the transmission. There is a [bakolite (plastic) fitting (yes looks like a wire fitting) right there. How does it come off of the transmission? Does it pull off? twist off? Looks like the wire broke right at the base of the [bakolite?] electric fitting. 1. Is that where the wire goes? 2. How can I disconnect it from the transmission and fit the wire back again? Thanks for your help... Matt D
I have a '68 ST-300 without the switch-pitch, but hopefully my experience will help. I believe the switch-pitch solenoid connector is similar to the detent (downshift) solenoid connector located at the back of the transmission, driver's side. The detent solenoid connector is plastic with a single wire plugged into it. The connector is removed by dropping the pan, then squeezing the 'ears' of the connector from the inside and pushing it out. Installation is simply by pushing the connector back in from the outside until it snaps in place. In short - don't try to twist or pry it out from the outside. The detent/downshift solenoid wire is connected to a switch at the gas pedal, so it's likely that the switch at the carb is for the switch-pitch.
Kirk, I appreciate your reply. Thank you. I will drop the pan this weekend and have a look. I don't want to sound contrary or ungrateful, but there is no switch on the gas pedal and only one mounted on the manifold bracket/carb setup. One of 2 things - someone did some surgery on the Buick and removed one switch. I will take a picture of the setup and post in a little bit or tomorrow. Or... I only have either the kickdown or a switch the pitch. The switch I have mounted on the LeSabre carb set-up is different than all the pictures I've seen. There is only one switch with only one wire coming from power and the other to the transmission - which is what fell (broke) off. The car only has 57,095 miles and its a convertible if that makes a difference. I'll post some pics later or tomorrow. Again Kirk, Thank you, Matt
well you are both wrong the 64 kick down and switch pitch is all in one on the intake mainfold it is a plunger looking device conected to the carb by a rod. If you check the switch it has 5 wires attached to it 2 at the front and 3 at the back the trans has 2 wires attached to it one opperates the convertor the other opperats the kick down. The Transmission has two identical solinoid switchs inside all the require is 12 volt power no need to drop the pan just put 12 volts to both pins on the trans if you hear a click then they are working. Use a test light on the switch on the intake and put power through the yellow wire and see of you have power to both wires at the back of the switch. one comes on before the other. the first is the convertor the second if the kick down i will see if i can find a picture for you the front two wires are for the idle switch on the carb ken
It almost sounds like you have a plunger switch from a 1964 ST400, which did not feature a variable pitch torque converter. That switch handled detent only. Devon
the 64 had a st300 switch pitch trans the th400 came out in 65 and i have had 8 64;s all have the switch pitch behind the 300
I don't think you understand what I'm saying. The ST400 came out in '64 as a wierd fixed-pitch design for the big cars that only had two forward gears on the detent, Low and Drive, even though it automatically shifted through three gears. That's why I'm wondering if he has a big car detent switch which would have no provision for switching the converter in his ST300. We need photos to see what's up. Devon
I stand corrected on the TH400 i should have said SPTH400 came in 65 but the 300 CI engine never had a TH400 behind it in any shape or form and the 64-66 Buick TH400 had the nail head bellhousing agree we need a picture of the switch to be sure and clear up any questions about what he has :TU: Ken
Not to beat a dead horse, they were called ST400 (Super Turbine) from '64-'68, TH400 from '69 up. The naming GM used didn't have anything to do with whether or not they had variable pitch converters...only the '65-'67 ST400's had that feature. Some folks mistakenly call them SP400 thinking "switch pitch", which was a term never used by GM. Devon
Egad,,,,, my switch pitch set up on my 65 GS has a orange power source wire coming to it and a white wire and black wire that goes down to the trans... at the end of it is a plug that plugs both wires to the terminal block in the side of the trans... cant plug it in but one way.... :laugh: :laugh:
Hi - I have to admit I was never a Buick man until I bought the LeSabre in January. I like it MUCH better than the 65 Mustand convertible I owned for 18 years... Anyway here are some pictures. I don't know if I have a downshift solenoid or a switch pitch solenoid. There are only 2 wires on the switch - power to and the wire to the transmission. I'm assuming the transmission is a ST 300 since: a) I have a 300 cu in and not a big motor b) There are only 2 forward gears I really appreciate everyone's help on this one. But - where does the wire go? How do I remove the connection from the transmission? Drop the pan and pray? Again... Thank you, Matt D
Ok, that switch is identical to the one on my 64 riv....it appears that the switch may not be plugged into the main wiring harness from the photo... the wire that goes down to the trans should plug into a wiring terminal that is on the outside of the trans on the drivers side...you do not have to drop the pan to plug it in...and,,,, those switches are adjustable,,, take a multi meter and hook it up to the switch and cycle it thru the wot position and see if it is switching on... then work the switch its self to see if it actually works... these switches are so simple on the inside that they are just about bullet proof...
I'd love to see how many terminals are on the underside of the switch...if there are two sets, like Doc said something may simply not be plugged in properly. Devon
Hey, Dev,,,,, look at the left hand photo,,,, looks like the plug is just laying down at the back of the block instead of plugging into the main wireing harness....
Yes, I do NOT have the power to the switch. I pulled the connection until I can hook it up to the trans. The switch has 1 pair of connections not 2. The switch does work I checked it with the multimeter - ohms goes to 0 with WOT. It does get power from the power supply, but the wire came off of the trans connection. It broke off right at the end of the terminal. The question is, how do U pull the electric fitting off of the trans? Does it pull out? Twist off? I need to re land the wire - but I can not take the old fitting off the trans - or I should say that the old fitting is just not being cooperative and I don't want to break the connection terminal. Thank you, Matt
You have to pull the trans connector straight out from the side of the case with no twisting action. It can be tough due to the hardening of the plastic connector, but with some oomph and a small amount of wiggling it'll come off. The plug in the side of the case will have male connectors sticking out, the connector on the wiring harness is female. Devon
To get the trans plug out that features the male spade terminals, you have to drop the pan, disconnect the wires from the back of the plug (more female/male type terminals), then squeeze the plug's retaining tabs a bit on the pan side so you can coax it from the outside of the case. There's an o-ring seal on it that will give you some resistance. Devon
Thanks, I'll try pulling it straight out tonight. Thanks again - I will let you know how it works... Matt D
Matt,,, I may not be getting it here,,, but the wires should lead down to the switch and just plug onto the tab or tabs, whichever the trans has .... without dropping the pan,,, the only way you would need to drop the pan is if you plug a working switch and wires onto the tab/tabs and then the trans doesnt shift right....if that happens then it will be neccessary to drop the pan and find out why...and If I remember right , you can jumper wire to the tabs and then hear the solenoid click inside the trans....
