Something broke

Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by Briz, Jan 20, 2018.

  1. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    This is my plan of attack. Thinking there will be plenty of spline left over after the cut. I knowed there had to be a kit for the back strap and at that price its will be cheaper .\ easier than fabbing up my own.
     
  2. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    The second link Ben posted is the Moser one-piece backbrace that I installed on mine.
     
  3. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    yOU NEED MORE THAN 3/4" TO RACE WITH. Just a futile point here. You need to buy real axles for a FULL spool. THAT is the point of a full spool. You car has too much torque to keep spider gears alive at the track.

    Tighten up the belt - Stop the bad habits like chips, cigarettes and drinking and you will have your money soon... You would be surprised how much that stuff eats up your fun funds. :)
     
  4. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    you're asking for it man. a mini spool and garbage axles is a terrible idea at any power level. had this failed at the top end of the track you'd likely end up on your roof and in the other lane and God knows what else. very foolish from every angle.
     
  5. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I found that out today. After cutting the axles down to fit the housing there wasnt very much spline left so thats out the window. As far as bad habits go, I aint got none of the above. Racing seems to be the only expensive vice I have right now. Next step is to figure out how to order axles the correct size and length

    6 years ago I'd never made a pass. Didnt even have any interest in racing. Then I fell in with this group. Learning everyday. This is my second dedicated race car. My first pass was 16.00 in the Riv. built a Lark and ended up going 11.70's. with this Regal and the new power plant I'm looking at mid 10's(currently set up as a 1/8 mile bracket car) The rear and mini spool and axles were in it when I bought the roller. So please reserve judgement and criticism. Thanks!
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  6. 436'd Skylark

    436'd Skylark Sweet Fancy Moses!!!!!

    you knew there was a mini spool in there when changed gears. your new "plan" to slice the twisted splines off and have less engagement in a already junk axle is even worse.

    if you want to run in the 10s take it as serious as it is and quit mickey mousing and spend the proper money. risking your own life is foolish enough, killing the guy racing next to you or a bystander in the crowd in an attempt to save a few bucks makes you a real piece of work.
     
  7. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    I'm sure monz or brian can get you axles you need. I have purchased from quick performane b4, tring to remember what the last pair of 31 spline ford axles were, I'm thinking through them it was under 350 but maybe I'm wrong. Most axles should include bearings, retainers, studs as option when you buy them. It's as simple most of the time as knowing the spline, length, type of rear, bolt pattern, center hub size, stud daimeter, and offset from bearing to axle flange
     
  8. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Bro, I think you are missing something here. I never intended to reuse the mini spool. I purchased a full Moser spool and axles from someone at the BG swap meet for future upgrades. Also never intended to reuse the twisted axles. Again had 31 spline Moser axles that were just a bit to long. After cutting to length there was just no way they would work with so little spline engagement.

    If you dont wanna line up with me my feelings wont be hurt.

    Called Summit last night. Theres a order form online with a set of points that need to be measured and recorded then faxed to them for a est.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-a31cst
    Custom Order Form 1.13 MB
    The price is not all that bad either.
     
  9. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

    Like I said I ran a mini spool for years before I knew better, never had any issues. I'm guilty of needing better axles too. It's been on my to do list for years, been running 10.90 and 11.0s of a tbraje on stk gm 8.5 axles. I have twisted a few and keep them checked every 25 or 30 passes and I even rotate them from side to side as I do my slicks.

    I know my axles to get bolt in units are like 500 bucks or so, just seems everytime I get the money, something in life between 2 kids and several cars, a boat, wife going back to school, comes up to need it more.

    But I also think some stk axles are stronger than others from the word go
     
    Briz likes this.
  10. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    I can speak from personal experience that stock 8.5 axles are better than the standard $280 Moser axles, my stockers twisted the splines after a couple hundred passes, the mosers lasted around 40 b4 twisting so bad I played hell getting them out. The race alloy Axles are very durable tho
     
  11. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    I have a question on the twisted axles... Do you guys race points or is this test and tune night? How many runs do you normally get in on a day of racing?
    Most of the time when axles get twisted they get over heated... Too many passes in a row will do this. ALL components need some cool down time to perform at their peak.
    NEW axles and any NEW metal parts would prefer a bunch of heat up and cool down cycles to cure them through more hardening.
    Old axles have been heat cycled plenty and the reason you might have thought they are better. There is a chance you got a junk set of axles also...CAN not say AMERICA is top notch for giving a hoot at work anymore...

    Briz, Ordering axles you will need to know the housing end your using, Brake offset your going to use (GM 2.75, ford 2.5, 2.81 Wilwood brakes etc. ) The bearing type your using (housing end will tell us that ) Over all length of axle shaft, spline count (tell them the brand spool you are using for correct spline pitch VERY IMPORTANT!!!) , Wheel bolt pattern, Stud type, Brake register diameter ( 2.771 2.81 2.75 etc. are common)

    Jim Mitschke
    J D
     
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  12. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    Not really the worker's fault though, its management and the bean counters that's killing USA quality and the fact that even though something is made here doesn't mean its made out of US steel.:(
     
    1973gs likes this.
  13. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    I race competition. Very rarely will I run a TnT unless I've made significant changes to the car and have no idea how it will act. Even on the day I do go to a test n Tune I wont hot lap the car. During an event it averages about 1 run an hour unless someone oils down the track. In the later rounds, if you're lucky enough to have made it that far, you may have to get right back into the lanes.

    As far as ordering goes Summit provided me with this sheet which I filled out this morning and faxed it. Dont know how long it takes for a response.
    upload_2018-1-24_16-8-53.png
     
  14. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Cut out Summit and order directly from Moser. That is all they are going to do anyway. You can also talk directly with someone at Moser,to help make sure you get the correct shafts.
     
  15. Bens99gtp

    Bens99gtp Well-Known Member

  16. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    To late. Just paid Summit about 10 mins ago. It is what it is.

    Just for informational purposes I called Moser. The rep took all my information and gave me a price that was a few $'s more than Summits and was going to charge shipping on top. Seems I'm better off going through Summit.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2018
    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  17. monzaz

    monzaz Jim

    Until you get the axles that do not fit. :)

    crossing my fingers for you.
     
  18. BrianTrick

    BrianTrick Brian Trick

    Like Jim said. All they have to do is get one factor wrong. Hopefully they won’t.
     
  19. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    If its wrong it would probably be my fault as I took the measurements and filled out the form. Some of those were tough to get single handily. the"D" was the hardest. ended up reinstalling the axles then clamping a level to the outside of the flange so they hung down past any obstructions then ran the tape between them. Still could probably be .5- 1" off either way. G and F required me to measure past the brackets that hold the coil overs as well as the connections for the ladder bars. Pretty sure I got them within 1/4 inch.
     
  20. Briz

    Briz Platinum Level Contributor

    Update: Summit / Moser got me the axles in under a week. They fit exactly right with nearly 2" of spline engagement in the spool. Welded a back strap on, looks like nothing warped. Set the pinion depth and back lash on the gear set. Installed and filled with fluid. A race buddy suggested I upgrade the U joints to solid 1350. that lead to a new 3/16" wall drive shaft and front yolk. seems for some reason 1310 and 1350 dont interchange very well. Car is on the ground. While were waiting for the next race day Im doing some other minor upgrades. Wrapped the headers. Mostly for cosmetic reasons. Put in some roll bar pad for safety reasons, installing new up dated belts cause Tech said I had to. Man, thats a racket! and a new better looking gauge cup for the fuel pressure gauge cause I always hated the one thats on there now.

    Im out there working on this and the wife walks up and says " you should just get another car and start over" Little does she know thats exactly what Im looking into doing!
     

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