I have my engine half torn apart. Should remove it and fix the dreaded oil leak in my rear main seal? I keep going back and forth on if I should. Also anyone else other than TA make a neoprene seal? I would buy one from TA but I want to do this by Saturday and dont know if TA can ship it by then. What to do? Ivano No:
hummm dunno bout TA but it all depends on how important Sat. is I say go ahead and do it if you have tha money for tha seal, and half the block torn up...o No:
I'll call TA and see if they can do Saturday delivery. I might as well.:grin: Should make for an interesting adventure. Just think I was at a car show last week and this week my engine all tore up. Ivan:eek2:
Ivan - I'd go for it, since your that far torn down!! Not too many more bolts to go!:grin: Besides...while you've got the pan off - you can take a peek at the bottom end to see how some of the bearings look.
Hi all, Ivan , If it were my engine and I didn't , you can be sure it would do an Exxon Valdez as soon as I started it the first time. If your luck is even 1/10 as bad , I would do it. :Smarty: Adam.
I think your right Scott. The engine only has if you can believe 3000 miles. Can someone say I have been Yarley'd...LOL:laugh: I come to find out today that whoever did the heads before was an absolute idiot. Anyways Hardened seats and valve guides should do the trick.:blast: Ivan
While you're in there...take a good look at the pickup screen. Can't hurt to be overly cautious - make sure there's no debris in there. Make sure the screen-to-pan clearance isn't too close or too far away!! BTW, you going to Long Beach this Sunday?
Forgot to ask you...but do you have any idea if the current valve springs are original or new? Nice time to upgrade to TA 1436 valve springs!!:TU: They're performance/stock replacements. Make sure the shop gets the valve tip heights all correct!!!!!
The problem is Ivan, how do you stop?? Once the head are off, you might as well gasket match the intake n heads, fresh bearing is an easy job, maybe a new cam n lifters, throw in some fresh rings and a quick hone hmm lets check them cylinder bores, ok deck and line hone the block and bore it 30 over and then just about time it get done you decide to just start over with a 455. Well that how it seams to go for me. I think I have 1 leaky exhaust valve seal but once the heads are off, how do I stop working. Matt uzzled:
Seal Ivan, I went through the rear main seal issue about a year ago. TA claimed that the two neoprene seals they had in stock were it, and that they weren't getting anymore. I bought the last two. Good thing cause I ruined one on the installation. Anyway, they showed up with the Ford logo and Ford part number. The number didn't reference at any of the Ford dealers I called so it's either changed or discontinued. This much I know, It's either for a 351 Cleveland or Windsor, and it sealed great! Maybe by now TA found a new source or something. LMK what you find out.
Ivan, I had TA ship my valves 2nd day air and they were there on time. So you might be in luck. But Saturday is tomorrow. Are you talking about NEXT week?
Rear seal When I did mine a few years ago I used a Cadillac part number seal. That and the front cover seal were featured in an older Hot Rod article complete with a bunch of other part numbers for a buick 455 buildup. That article has been posted on some web pages before - I don't have a copy of it, maybe somebody else has it.
