Here's what I have. New 2004R Stage 1 2004R w/lock up behind a mild build 71 Buick Skylark 350 with a TA 284 cam New 2400 Stall converter New 225 60R/15 tires New 3.73 rear gears I'm curious what shift speeds members have their transmissions set at with a similar combo. It my understanding that the shifts are recommended as follows: (1-2) 15 -18 mph (2-3) 28-32 mph (3-4) 48-52 mph <o></o> My intention for this complete set up is to have good performance with some street manners!
I remove the governer, take the weights and cut weight off of them to raise the shift points until I am happy You can also find a Governer from a SS monte or Buick GN which will give you a higher full throttle shift point. Look for a KC or VB code governor. Do not try to use the TV cable to change the full throttle shift points.
I've never seen it laid out like you have it, but I have been told that if it shifts from 1st to 2nd before 15 MPH its to early. Rear gear ratios would make a difference of course. Bob H.
Update: Got the tranny back and shift points are WAY OFF. Shift linkage cable I was sent is apparently too long and even adjusted at the max I had too much excess cable (1.25"). This problem made for a MUSHY shift sequence. With the cable temporarily snugged up things appeared a bit better but still way off. As my speedometer is off from prior modifications (3.73 gearing) I used my GPS and tach to come up with the following. 1-2: 6.3 MPH @ 1500 RPM 2-3: 16 MPH @ 2100 RPM 3-4: 31 MPH @ 2300 PRM Notes: As the engine and transmission got hotter shift points changed a bit but never for the better. I played with the tranny by putting her in OD and then just in 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] to see if there was a difference with none noted. What I did notice was that when adjustments were made to the cable for forward shifts my reverse didn't work right and seemed to slip a bit! Also my down shifts were very hard and delayed with 2nd hanging until I almost came to a complete stop and then CLUNK! It's back to the shop and some conferring with the tranny shop is definitely in order.
If the cable is too long than you need to replace it with the right one. That's all there is to it. No need to get into the trans. No need to worry about valve bodies. No need to think about anything that isn't the right cable and the right brackets to correct the cable geometry. Until you have it installed correctly all you're doing is burning up the trans pointlessly.
I had the cable and mounting brackets replaced and had some weight taken off the governor but I still am somewhat dissatisfied with the shift points and what seems to be hard down shifting. I also have some questions based on responses I have received so far. Why would you NOT use the cable to adjust open throttle shifts points? What happens if you do use it? If not for shift points what does adjusting the cable accomplish? I see that it can be clicked in and out? Finally, my tranny seems to down shift 3 to 2 really hard. What might be the cause or is it common with a stage 1 transmission? First impressions: Compared to my old 350 transmission with a B&M shift kit the 2004R Stage 1 with a mild Trans Go kit seems to lurch into gears rather than snap 1 to 2, 2 to 3. I feel I have a lot more available power but it’s a totally different feel!
By moving the TV cable or or two clicks either way you can fine tune the part throttle shift points. Any more than a click or two and you will change the line pressures and can cause damage to the trans. The only thing that controls the full throttle shift points is the governor as far as I know.
When you guys say a click or two are you referring to starting point with a particular pressure? Would that be a cause of my hard down shifts? Is it easy to check line pressure? I noticed that there is a lot of adjustment clicks in the cable linkage. When I picked up my car and thought there was too much slack in between shifts the mechanic had me play with the cable linkage to "tighten things up" which now I think wasn't such as good idea. He said he had taken some weight off the governor but did not want to take too much. Now Im thinking maybe he should have taken more!
It sounds like your TV cable is either too tight or too loose. Please describe your part throttle upshifts so we know which way you are at the moment. It is not hard for a trans shop to confirm the line pressures as they have the right tools and equipment. This is a lot of insurance to keep the trans lasting a long time.... Without this it is a lot of guess work and you may kill the trans in just 100 miles. The best way to go is to "set" the TV cable as per how GM does it from the factory. The info is in here: http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php Have a look at this: http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/part3.php
Thanks Sean and everyone else for their input! I don't have the time today but don't intend using the car either until I try the suggestions. I will report back with the results. As a side note: When I picked the car up I thought the shifts were way too late even though I was told weight was taken off the governor as recommended by GM not by the rebuilder. While driving the car around the TV cable was clicked out creating more tension to address the shift lag. It worked somewhat, but then I ended up with the previously mention HARD downshifts. It is my understanding doing some online research that for a base line I should disconnect the cable with the vehicle off and make sure its fully extended and lines up with the carb linkage point at WOT not being too short or too long. As stated by you guys and on other sites I see that it's not recommended to use the cable to address my shifting issues which I was unaware of previously. Only compensation if there is such a thing is that this seems to be a common of a problem than I previously thought! I think my mechanic was leery taking too much weight off the governor being safe rather sorry!!
There should be a tiny bit of play in the cable in the idle position. If it is tight with no play it is too tight. Bob H.
The following link has very detailed instructions. Pay close attention to the way they lay out off the center line of your carb throttle shaft, where the cable attaches to the carb linkage, how it sweeps, the tv/intake bracket mounting location etc. It is very important to follow this set-up, if it is not correct you will never get constant shift points and shift quality that you need to keep your trans happy. Correct me if I am wrong but the govener is for full throttle only and the tv is for part throttle shift points/timing. In some cases you will have to use a helper spring that clips onto the tv cable. I hope this helps.... http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf Here is the info for the tv corrector spring, These guys are a very good sorce of info etc. Link is http://www.transmissioncenter.net/200-4r.htm and scroll down the page and it shows a pic of how it installs. #42. 200-4R Throttle Valve Cable Corrector Spring. This spring will allow you to turn the pressure up and still be able to open the throttle wide open. The spring is on the far right side in picture. Cost $7.00 Qty 12345
Here's how to hook up the pressure guage to the trans. Complete with pics. http://www.tvmadeez.com/press_gauge/pressgauge.html Here's the info you're trying to compare your trans to 2004R Pressure Test Info To perform a pressure test on your 2004R is not hard and can supply lots of info if you are having a problem. You will need a 90 deg. fitting 1/8" pipe to -4. You will also need a pressure gauge that goes to 300 psi. The pressure tap is located on the left side of the transmission above the linkage. Typical pressures of a healthy 2004R listed below. I have also listed the minimum required to for decent transmission life. The test should be performed with engine RPM slightly elevated to around 1200 RPM or more. Full TV requires the TV cable to be pulled out as far as it will go. Dont get to hung up on the pressures in Park as some VBs do not boost in Park and some do. The other gears are very important. Excellent pressure Minimum No TV / Full TV No TV / Full TV P 90 275 70 225 R 230 230 200 200 N 90 275 70 225 4 90 275 70 225 3 90 275 70 225 2 250+ 250+ 225 225 1 250+ 250+ 225 225 The testing is done with the TV cable unhooked from the carb. No TV means don't pull the cable. The Full TV means have someone pull the cable out until it's fully extended while testing the gear pressure. Remember that the car is going to want to move when you have 1,200 rpms and the car in gear. Some people put the rear on jackstands, while others use the e-brake and sit in the car with the brakes held. This is the full test that you do after you make sure that the carb linkage is actually pulling the cable fully out at wide open throttle.
If you search the forum Juice Box for 200-4r swap summary you will find my sumary thread for when I 1st put a 200 into my 72. towards the end of the thread I posted pics of the cutting I did to the governor weights to take a "heavy" governor to the "light" specs that shifted WOT at about 5000. FYI
Do you remember the time frame when you posted? There are 8 pages when I searched the forum and you have made lots and lots of other post!! LOL </SPAN> Thanks Steve
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?176591-TH350-200R4-swap-summary&highlight=swap+summary heres the link The pic of the weight dimensions is post 15 I am surprised the summary thread isnt a Sticky by now.
Has anyone used this bracket set up for their metric tranny intall (2004r or 700r4) on a Buick motor with a TA manifold? The bracket kit that came with my tranny is garbage and the geometry is off. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-376700/media/images
